Is there a way to improve B string on Fender Jazz?

[DWBass]

A good setup, the right strings, properly cut nut and proper string winding should suffice.

 

[el_Bajo_Verde]

You will need a thicker B-string. Maybe .145 or more on a 34" scale

 

[Zooberwerx]

Here's the thing--if you play it acoustically with new strings, you can hear when a bass has a good B string. A bass with a good low B just rings like a piano. Basses with less-good B strings sound blurry and indistinct. You can help things a little with preamps and pickups but ultimately it's the piano factor that does it. Dingwalls are amazing because of the scale length of that B, but I've played 34-inch scale basses with really good B's too. One thing that does seem to help is B strings that are tapered at the bridge--it seems to help when the piece of string going over the bridge is narrower.

That pretty much sums it up and is not Fender-specific. I've seen any number of suggestions from new string types to new hardware (e.g bridges) which complement the instrument as a whole. The pitfall is that this stuff costs money and, subject to trial & error, one cannot forecast outcomes. On a more constructive note, here's a few tips I've gleaned over the years which may help you squeeze the best out of your bass...and it's free:

*Coupling: Slightly loosen the neck bolts while tuned to pitch. This will allow the neck to butt-up firmly within the pocket. This is an old G&L trick and it actually works. Don't forget to re-tighten!

*Nut & Bridge: Nut slots should be cut / contoured correctly. Bridge saddles should be parallel with the base plate, do not tilt.

*String Install: No twists, adequate wraps & break angles, set your witness points. Here's a tutorial for those who need to brush-up...the contributors are much wiser than I (am):

Stringing, Tuning, Intonation and Witnesses

Feel free to add as you see fit.

Riis

 

[MrLenny1]

Things to try: new strings ?
is the B part of matched set ?

GLWT

 

[TonyP-]

As someone who has really worked at this exact problem in detail.

There are slight improvements that can be done BUT like Jon said its still does not completely address the issue.

One of the reasons I find the GL is better then most other brands for a 34" B is the solid bridge.

A solid anchor on the end most certainly effects the percussive factor of a strong vibration.

All in all I mostly moved to 35s but all the little tweaks might just be enough for You.

Good luck

 

[Jeff Haislip]

I will add that I have played a Fender 5 string and wasn't impressed. This happened to be a $2,000 active 5 string Jazz about three years ago. I also thought it left much to be desired. I have a late 90s G&L L2500 and I think the B string is pretty good, however when I bought my Lull MV5, wow!!!

 

[Bass Viking]

I am curious; are there any 34" 5 string basses you would recommend besides G&L?

I own a Ken Smith, a Sadowsky, and a Warwick Thumb. All are 34" and their B strings are great. My preferred strings are Sadowsky.

 

[Joebone]

The best way to improve the B string on a Fender Jazz is to sell it and get a Dingwall . Sorry I had to

But is that 34" string gonna be long enough for a Dingwall? I was gonna nominate Sadowsky as the 34" alternative...

 

[darwin-bass]

I would not resign this to being an inherent, irreparable design fault without first looking at the interaction among the strings, body, and neck. This could be something as simple as sub-optimal coupling between the neck and body and/or a bad / incomplete string install

This. If it were my bass, I'd do the following in roughly this order order to see if things improve.

1. New strings. Make sure the B string is not routed through the body and has no twist. Make sure the string wraps around the tuner and provides good downward angle at the nut. Also, be sure the string slides through the nut without binding. If it is snug, you can widen it with needle files but be careful you don't make it deeper.
2. Remove the neck and ensure the neck pocket and neck are both as clean and flat as possible. Clean out any buffing compound or left over dust from production. Put the neck back on paying special attention to ensure the neck and body are solidly touching as much as possible and the front screws are snug
3. Replace the bridge. High mass brass Hipshot would be my choice. I'm hoping that added mass in the bridge will help to ward off some of the vibration loss in that low b.
4. Replace the tuners. Gotoh res-o-lites would be my choice. The hope is that changing headstock mass would change the resonate properties of the neck system and reduce energy absorption from the B string.

 

[darwin-bass]

You will need a thicker B-string. Maybe .145 or more on a 34" scale

I've had several 34" scale 5-stringers. They sounded great with .120 B strings.

 

[jmlee]

Steve Araujo has raved about the G&L CLF research L-2000 low B. Are they that good? I have not played a G&L 5 string and I like the idea of having one.

The B's on my 34" scale G&L L-2500, M-2500, and JB-5 (all US instruments) are all very good. Of all my 5ers, though, my 34" Yamaha BB1025x slays them all. Magnificent B-string!

 

[darwin-bass]

*Coupling: Slightly loosen the neck bolts while tuned to pitch. This will allow the neck to butt-up firmly within the pocket. This is an old G&L trick and it actually works. Don't forget to re-tighten!

I'm not sure this makes total sense to me, but perhaps it works.

I assume you detune before tightening the screws so you're not fighting string tension?

 

[Lagado]

I bought a Fender Jazz Deluxe 5 in 1998, the lackluster B string was a big part of the reason I sold it. I had the chance to back to back three of those basses in the shop for a couple of hours. That was the best of them...

 

[hbabels]

I would say try different string brands & gauges. Try a taper would B and going up to heavier guage or try a lighter guage sometimes on some Basses that can help as weird as it seems as usually people will suggest heavier and that works too sometimes. So I think the moral of the story is some trial and error is needed different brands , hex core vs round core etc, different tensions.

You might find a combo that brings it to life. Also ask yourself how much you love the bass overall. There is something to be said in the overall neck & Bass constriction that really seems to affect Low B performance. I'm in the camp that prefers Dingwall but I've also played Spectors & Ernie Balls and Warwick's with great sounding Low B's and they have all different scale lengths so it's a combo of factors that seem to determine the sound & feel & not just 1 silver bullet approach. All that said strings really can make a difference so I'd start there.

 

[Lagado]

If it has that cancellation, move it on. You can throw the kitchen sink at it if you like, but it won't do it.

 

[Claymore]

I use DR LoRiders and the B wasn't cutting it for me.

I would give these a shot anyways. Especially if it feels floppy. I put these on my Ibanez and I liked the B so much that I doubt I'll ever experiment with another set of strings on that bass. I have a feeling YMMV depending on what bass you play, so maybe it will work or maybe not but give the Lo-Riders a chance.

 

[chadds]

Updating the electronics certainly helps, but given that Fender just made a wider neck, you're always going to have issues with the B string. If the neck isn't looked at and designed accordingly, the vibration transfer is gone and you have a crummy sounding lower register. You can bump the gauge for the B string, and that will help as well, but won't completely address the problem.

My Hilton is a 32" scale and has a tremendously amazing and articulate B string. It can be done, but you have to look at the neck, and not just do the "Fender thing" and say "Oh, the neck needs to be wider? Easy."

Which proves that construction, rigidity, and design for the purpose are quite real. Electronics can't make a string vibrate as it should with it's vibrations supported and renewed by the physical aspects of the bass. (That was so slick! I never said tone wood. )

 

[JW56789]

I've played fives since the early 80's, and basses will vary in how well the B blends with the other string, its tone, etc. Over time, I've found some things that worked for me, and maybe will for you as well.

As always, I'd suggest a first-rate setup, witha new set of the strings you plan to use (i.e., don't go to that trouble with dead strings ever). Check for proper nut height and slots. Check that none of the saddles are binding the ball-end of the string. Set your relief and last-fret clearances (use Fender's factory steps if necessary). If you're not that skilled, pay a proper professional to do this.

I have found that fives can be very fussy about pickup heights. A little too far away or a little too close can make a big difference. I'd start with Fender's factory setup and then listen very carefully to the relative blend and tone across the five strings: Do this with your amp flat, so as not to boost (or cut) any of the frequencies and tones you're listening for. After a bit you will begin to get a sense what works and what doesn't height-wise on the pickups.

Once you're satisfied with that, play along with some recordings and see if there's any tweaking you'd want to do.

There's no end in the preceding posts about the various merits and demerits of this or that bass, this or that string, and on and on, and there are cases to be made I suppose. Here I'm just trying to find out IF we can improve that bass you've got.

Best of Luck,

JW

 

[dkelley]

I have to reiterate that short scale basses even can have great B strings. Just ask Kiesel (erm, Carvin?) about their vader 6 short scale.

It's build quality resulting in rigidity using hard woods and good metal parts that gives you a great B string, from my experience, along with a good angle.

I have yet to find a B string strung through body that sounded good, because the angle beyond the bridge saddle is so sharp down of a bend that the string doesn't work properly, in the ones I've have checked.

So I ALWAYS string top loader style if possible. I tried string through on my grind, one last time, and nope - B string doesn't work right. Top loaded, with a brand new string, and all good... although I gotta say I got a dud B string from D'addario the first time I did a top load with it also. That happens sometimes.

I doubt the Jazz is poorly built or uses poor quality metal/wood... so check setup and install config of the string. Look for weird curves, bad angles, etc. Check how it's seated in the nut too.

 

[Ric5]

Hi Everyone,

I bought a second-hand MIA 5-sting Jazz. I think it's the "standard" model (came with passive electronics). Love the look and playability, but:

The GDAE strings sound great, bright and punchy, just they way I thought they would be. The B string - poop. So bad that the tuner had troubles picking up any notes. If the tuner can't hear it then neither can I.

I read somewhere (probably on TB) that for the standard series Fender just added an extra string and didn't update the electronics. So I went on a quest and fitted it with Lindy Fralin pickups and John East preamp, which as you expect wasn't a cheapo fix.

It helped a lot I must say. The B string now exists and has some bottom, but still bleak and wimpy sounding compared to the other 4. No sustain either. I have other 5 string basses and, as you'd expect, the B string varies between them, but none of them is as bad as the Fender.

Is my bass faulty or is this how 5 string Jazz basses are? If it's faulty - what should I look into? Changed pickups, put a preamp in, changed strings a few times, did the setup a few times. Tightened all the bolts. Didn't seem to fix it. Could the body and/or neck be defective?

TIA

yes it can be better

1 - you need better strings Get a D'Addario .125 B string
2 - flatten the neck
3 - cut bass and boost mids
4 - play back by the bridge
5 - don't use Fender strings ... Fender's low B is usually not good