Is there a way to improve B string on Fender Jazz?

[Ric5]

I have to reiterate that short scale basses even can have great B strings. Just ask Kiesel (erm, Carvin?) about their vader 6 short scale.

It's build quality resulting in rigidity using hard woods and good metal parts that gives you a great B string, from my experience, along with a good angle.

I have yet to find a B string strung through body that sounded good, because the angle beyond the bridge saddle is so sharp down of a bend that the string doesn't work properly, in the ones I've have checked.

So I ALWAYS string top loader style if possible. I tried string through on my grind, one last time, and nope - B string doesn't work right. Top loaded, with a brand new string, and all good... although I gotta say I got a dud B string from D'addario the first time I did a top load with it also. That happens sometimes.

I doubt the Jazz is poorly built or uses poor quality metal/wood... so check setup and install config of the string. Look for weird curves, bad angles, etc. Check how it's seated in the nut too.

I have a 32" scale 5 string that has a good low B

 

[Ric5]

This bass here is 34" and has a great low B

 

[stringthrough]

I had a MIA Fender Jazz 5, an older one that had the 5 tuners on one side. Loved that bass, but unlike the problem you're describing it had a week E string! Go figure.

Not long ago I had an MIA Fender P-Bass 5. GREAT bass! All 5 strings were balanced in terms of volume and "resonance'. Conclusion, fender CAN get 5 strings right (at times).

 

[Ric5]

also Roto-Sound does not make a good low B

 

[darwin-bass]

I wonder about the angle of the string at the nut. The B tuner is pretty close to the nut making me wonder if the downward angle is forcing the string to pass through the nut in some rounded fashion that isn't making a clean witness point. Though that would probably only affect the open B.

A poor witness point at the bridge would the entire string however.

 

[Wasnex]

this is an oft-complained issue with the Fender 5 design

One response to this...Roscoe Beck 5...but unfortunately discontinued.

I was under the impression they made a decent 5-string Jazz as well but you need to know which specific model to get.

Even if a specific model is considered good, you need to go through a pick your bass. Each instrument will have it's own unique personality. By this I mean some examples of a particular model can be good, although many are meh.

 

[dkelley]

My 34" USA ernie ball basses and my carvin basses have all had perfect B strings. Same with my grind 6 string 35".

It's not the size that counts. It's how well it's put together, and how well it's taken care of (adjustments etc) ;-)

 

[Zooberwerx]

I'm not sure this makes total sense to me, but perhaps it works.

I assume you detune before tightening the screws so you're not fighting string tension?

Nope. We're allowing the ~150 lbs of pressure to draw the neck into position. Not to worry...the neck is not going to fly off although it would be kinda neat if it did.

Riis

 

[jeffb28451]

I've liked and played 4 string j basses for 4 decades. I have used many 5's but no love for Fender 5s. I don't think they are redeemable as a 5, but if you want to spend the time trying to make one work, more power to you.

 

[Wasnex]

My Ric 4001 had a woolly E string, and I had the impression the problem was due to a resonance in the neck because adding some mass to the headstock helped. Of course a Ric already has significant neck dive, so not really a good solution.

So I have to wonder if a Fatfinger might help.

 

[Zooberwerx]

I wonder about the angle of the string at the nut. The B tuner is pretty close to the nut making me wonder if the downward angle is forcing the string to pass through the nut in some rounded fashion that isn't making a clean witness point. Though that would probably only affect the open B.

A poor witness point at the bridge would the entire string however.

Lack of witness points at the nut and / or bridge will affect performance along the entire string path. The B & E strings are particularly resistant to bending...you really have to drive your thumb down with extra horsepower to establish a clean bend / break. The B slot / tuner relationship is a great example as is the B saddle on my Hanewinckel's Hipshot "B" bridge. The "lazy loop" you described is your worst enemy and will totally screw-up any subsequent tuning, intonation, and string height adjustment.

Riis

 

[darwin-bass]

Nope. We're allowing the ~150 lbs of pressure to draw the neck into position. Not to worry...the neck is not going to fly off although it would be kinda neat if it did.

Riis

Well that 150 lbs going to try to lift the front of the neck out of the pocket while it presses the end of the neck deeper into the pocket. As you tighten the screws you're having to fight against that 150 lb force to draw the front of the neck back down into the pocket.

Though this approach will surely pull the neck tight into the pocket, pulling it toward the bridge.

 

[TonyP-]

I will add that I have played a Fender 5 string and wasn't impressed. This happened to be a $2,000 active 5 string Jazz about three years ago. I also thought it left much to be desired. I have a late 90s G&L L2500 and I think the B string is pretty good, however when I bought my Lull MV5, wow!!!

I'm also guessing Your Lull is 35" scale...

 

[Zooberwerx]

Well that 150 lbs going to try to lift the front of the neck out of the pocket while it presses the end of the neck deeper into the pocket. As you tighten the screws you're having to fight against that 150 lb force to draw the front of the neck back down into the pocket.

Though this approach will surely pull the neck tight into the pocket, pulling it toward the bridge.

Nah, it won't be anything like that. You can stabilize it with your free hand...it's not going anywhere. This is actually a set-up suggestion by G&L. Think I got this tidbit from @walterw . We're loosening the bolts just enough to allow the neck to slide / settle in the pocket.

Riis

 

[Gwardar]

Wow, so many responses. Thanks a lot.

I tried different strings, DR HiBeams and Dunlop Super Brights. All in 45-130 gauge, I haven't tried a higher gauge, might give this a go.

Attached pictures of the nut, bridge and pickups, not sure what else may be important in the setup. Sorry if the photos are murky, couldn't get good light.

The neck is quite straight with very small relief. I have similar setup on other basses, so if this were totally botched I'd expect issues with them too.

The B string is a bit bent coming from the nut to the peg. Perhaps this has some effect. Not sure how else I could do it though.

 

[2cooltoolz]

Another vote for the Fender Stealth Retainer. Increases the break angle at the nut. I also use Chromes 45-135 strings (except I swap out for a 0.50 G). My "B" is very usable, though I have to admit, I don't hold notes below E very much. More for the lower 5TH or for walking up to E (or whatever).

I also have a G&L L2500 (my third G&L 5 string) strung the same way, and I find them very similar in that aspect.

 

[eddododo]

Hi Everyone,

I bought a second-hand MIA 5-sting Jazz. I think it's the "standard" model (came with passive electronics). Love the look and playability, but:

The GDAE strings sound great, bright and punchy, just they way I thought they would be. The B string - poop. So bad that the tuner had troubles picking up any notes. If the tuner can't hear it then neither can I.

I read somewhere (probably on TB) that for the standard series Fender just added an extra string and didn't update the electronics. So I went on a quest and fitted it with Lindy Fralin pickups and John East preamp, which as you expect wasn't a cheapo fix.

It helped a lot I must say. The B string now exists and has some bottom, but still bleak and wimpy sounding compared to the other 4. No sustain either. I have other 5 string basses and, as you'd expect, the B string varies between them, but none of them is as bad as the Fender.

Is my bass faulty or is this how 5 string Jazz basses are? If it's faulty - what should I look into? Changed pickups, put a preamp in, changed strings a few times, did the setup a few times. Tightened all the bolts. Didn't seem to fix it. Could the body and/or neck be defective?

TIA

A tale as old as time.. 34" scale B strings are often poopy- it has to be a very good bass with a stiff neck for it to work well. Upgrading electronics will have a minimal effect.

note- favoring the bridge pickup will work FAR BETTER than the neck pickup— neck pickups on that low of notes sounds crappy generally, from P to J to Soapbar

 

[dbsfgyd1]

Warwick. I played a Corvette 5 for nearly 20 years, with a killer B string. Any of theirs would be great.

But other than G&L and Warwick, I haven't had a lot of 34" 5 strings in general. My current 5s (Hilton, Better Mousetrap) are both 32" scale, with killer B strings.

I have a Warwick Corvette as well Awesome 5th string using .125 on it. That gauge might be too floppy for some, but after playing it for 15-20 minutes or so, I don't notice it.

 

[Tim Skaggs]

I had a Fender Jazz Plus 5 string for a while many years ago. It was my very first 5 string. It was an early 90s bass with Lace Sensor pickups and a Fender / Kubicki original preamp. It also had the same hardware as Japanese Fender basses but it was labeled as "made in USA". It suffered from a relatively weak B string. It wasn't awful, but it was noticeable. The best thing I did for it was to use an exposed core string. That helped a ton with clarity. I used a Fender Stainless string set (7250?) that had exposed core B & E strings in the set & maybe the A string also. The B string had the deep piano-like tone with the exposed core string. No other string I tried was as clear / defined. I did use a couple other exposed core string brands, and all of them had much better B string tone / clarity on that specific bass than any string that had the winding on the bridge saddle.

 

[darwin-bass]

Do NOT string it through body!