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Is this a myth?

I finally replaced the battery in my active bass after about 3 years. Not because it needed to be changed, but just that I got paranoid. Weekly band practices and 2 or 3 gigs a month. Several times, I've forgotten to unplug it only to find it a few days later. It was still good.

I have an Aguilar OBP pre amp in mine and it has a passive mode. So if the battery were to die in the middle of a gig, I can still keep playing.

So, while you should unplug when not using it, don't worry if you forget once in a while.

And congrats on the new bass. :D
 
I laugh at battery drainage! I run Energizers!

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...dryness implies having less water and that oil makes it harder for water to get into the wood.

It also makes it harder for water to get out of the wood.

There is moisture in the air, and there is moisture in the fingerboard. The wood will either gain moisture or lose moisture from the atmosphere, depending on the relative humidity and the moisture content of the wood (osmosis- the moisture will move from the greater concentration to the lesser concentration until equilibrium is reached).

In the summer, when the relative atmospheric humidity is as high as 90%, your fingerboard will gradually absorb moisture from the atmosphere until the moisture content of the wood reaches 90% (i.e. equilibrium). Above 65% or 70% moisture content, the wood fibers will swell, and the expansion differential between fingerboard and neck woods can cause the fingerboard to lose it’s relief and create back-bow issues. It can cause fret buzz. It can also cause intonation issues. In some cases, it can even cause glue joint failures.

In the winter, when indoor humidity can be less than 10%, literally drier than the Mojave Desert, the opposite occurs. Moisture will move out of the fingerboard and into the atmosphere until the moisture content of the wood matches the relative humidity of the room, in this case, 10%.

Below 30% moisture content, the wood will begin to shrink, the fret ends will protrude*, causing sharp fret ends, the fingerboard could develop cracks, the neck can bow, and again, in extreme cases, it could create de-lamination issues.

When the wood is expanding and contracting due to moisture fluctuation, it can cause the neck to warp, twist, or crack. Ebony, in particular, is prone to cracking due to moisture fluctuation.

The purpose of fingerboard oil is to create a semi-permeable moisture barrier. It won't prevent osmosis from occurring, but it will slow it down considerably.

The oil will also displace some of the moisture in the wood. Oil will still evaporate, but it evaporates at a much, much slower rate than water (months rather than hours).

All these rants about how oiling a fingerboard is somehow wrong, or that anyone who thinks they need to put oil on their fingerboard is somehow stupid, are coming from an incomplete understanding of the function of oiling a fingerboard, at best. They typically argue that oiling a fingerboard does not moisturize the fingerboard, since moisture is water, and oil is not water.

This is a straw-man argument, a logical fallacy. It's based on a false premise. The oil is not to "add moisture" to the fingerboard. Adding moisture to a fingerboard will do more harm than good in most cases. It's the opposite of what you want. Oil is used to slow the transfer of moisture, both to and from the fingerboard.

So, is it necessary to oil an unfinished fingerboard? It depends on the circumstances.

When I was a musician, I was traveling with my instruments most of the time. They were exposed to frequent temperature fluctuations, humidity fluctuations, and barometric pressure fluctuations (especially when flying).
It was pretty important to keep the fingerboards oiled.

I am no longer a musician. I keep all of my instruments in a temperature and humidity controlled environment. Since fluctuations in temperature and humidity are not an issue, I don't bother oiling any of my fingerboards. They don't need it.

...They probably also put oil or wax on their lips when they are dry during the winter. Just one of those things where everyone understands what you mean, but they want an argument.

Exact same principle. A semi-permeable barrier to slow osmosis. In the case of a fingerboard, an impermeable barrier can be used (such as nitrocellulose lacquer on a maple board), which renders oil unnecessary. An impermeable barrier would be less than optimal on skin (witness the ignominious death of Jill Masterson).



* That's right. All these people complaining about sharp fret ends are complaining about a storage issue, i.e. relative humidity and the moisture content of the wood, and not a manufacturing issue. The instrument was not made with sharp fret ends. The sharp ends protruded because the fretboard shrank due to moisture loss.


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Even this one. That off position is a standby. Battery is still draining.
Then mine must be defective. I bought it new in 90, and the bottom position on my four way switch has always turned the preamp off. Since it lives at home or in my brothers studio these days it gets left plugged in for weeks at a time with no problem. I've had brain farts and forgot to turn the switch off and drained a battery overnight so it’s still possible to get caught out.
As for battery life? When I played out a lot I replaced the battery every four months. It was not flat when I replaced it but the goal was not get caught on stage with a dead battery. I can switch to passive on the same switch I turn it off with, but it drops the volume enough you will likely need to turn up your amp, so after the second time it died on stage I started replacing my battery every four months to avoid having to scramble mid song. I always kept the last battery I took out of it for folks who never seemed to have replacement batteries. I’d wrap a strip of friction tape around the battery to cover the posts and toss it in the case so i didn't have to give up my new in the pack backup battery.

here’s where it’s been since early October and the only time it’s not plugged in is when i move everything to run the vacuum.

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Some high output preamps can drain a battery overnight. It’s never a good idea to leave stuff plugged in overnight because I said so. I’d assume an EBMM where the batteries last forever could probably withstand a while. But the cable makes the connection/switch to turn it on. Even on preamps with a passive override the battery is still taxed in most cases.
 
Then mine must be defective. I bought it new in 90, and the bottom position on my four way switch has always turned the preamp off. Since it lives at home or in my brothers studio these days it gets left plugged in for weeks at a time with no problem. I've had brain farts and forgot to turn the switch off and drained a battery overnight so it’s still possible to get caught out.
As for battery life? When I played out a lot I replaced the battery every four months. It was not flat when I replaced it but the goal was not get caught on stage with a dead battery. I can switch to passive on the same switch I turn it off with, but it drops the volume enough you will likely need to turn up your amp, so after the second time it died on stage I started replacing my battery every four months to avoid having to scramble mid song. I always kept the last battery I took out of it for folks who never seemed to have replacement batteries. I’d wrap a strip of friction tape around the battery to cover the posts and toss it in the case so i didn't have to give up my new in the pack backup battery.

here’s where it’s been since early October and the only time it’s not plugged in is when i move everything to run the vacuum.

View attachment 4106622 View attachment 4106623

I owned 2 Fender Urge basses and a Fender made Kubicki. I was aware of the bypass, but never left the basses plugged in.
 
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