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Is this Rick 4003S Real?

#21
rickdog said:
I think it's most likely we're all misreading the serial number. Instead of GAxxxx, could it be G(digit)xxxxx? That would make sense for 1996, and everything else I see here is consistent with that. I don't see any other obvious signs of fakery.

I'm pretty sure the 19th fret marker came and went over the years.
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I’ve read on reverb.com that rick serial starting with G means 1967. And starting with 9 would match 1996. For what you know, that makes sense?

ps.: thanks a lot for all your help guys!
 
#22
rickdog said:
Look at the body picture, you can see two Philips head screws under the E and G strings. Those were added to prevent "tail lift" after the material for the tailpiece was changed in about 1973. The change in the material also meant a change in how it was cast, eliminating the gap in the central "tooth" over the mute.
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Ah, yes. Sorry. I'm getting too carried away to watch for the obvious! Thx.
 
#26
smurfco said:
The pickup cutout in the pickguard looks kind of done by hand too - could it be a 4000 that was routed for a neck pickup? Would also explain why the pickup isn't in the 1/2" location you'd expect...
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The seller told me that the pickguard isnt original, that probably the original one broke and the previois owner put one handmade
 
#28
Seller also says that the hard case is original that came with the bass:
 

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#29
Rhynobass said:
I’ve read on reverb.com that rick serial starting with G means 1967.
Click to expand...
Starting with G means 1967 if followed by a letter (which indicates the month). If it's followed by a digit, it's a newer serial number date code.

G96919 decodes to 1996 at the Rickenbacker Serial Number Decoder

So rest easy, and rock that thang! It's got some mojo, but you need to add some more. How does it play?
 
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#30
Rhynobass said:
Another important thing: it doesnt have the push/pull that would make sense if it was 4003S, right?
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That was added later (I don't remember exactly when). I think yours might be from the era when the bass blocking capacitor on the bridge pickup had been replaced by a straight wire. If you really want the vintage sound, you might consider talking to @Aceonbass who I think could make you a new wiring harness with the push/pull switch and optimal pot values for those pickups.
 
#31
rickdog said:
That was added later (I don't remember exactly when). I think yours might be from the era when the bass blocking capacitor on the bridge pickup had been replaced by a straight wire. If you really want the vintage sound, you might consider talking to @Aceonbass who I think could make you a new wiring harness with the push/pull switch and optimal pot values for those pickups.
Click to expand...

got it! so, considering july 1996, it would match all the things you noticed before? Like screws on the bridge and the position of the neck pick up?
For what i saw, you are really a rick expert kkkk
 
#32
Take the strings off and take the truss rod cover off. Does it have two truss rods? I don't know of any fake or lawsuit Rick bass that has two truss rods.

Take the pick guard off. Does the rouding from the control cavity to the neck pickup look like drilled circles "OOOOOO"? I don't know any manufacture that does that. Later CNC models may have a straight rout.
 
#33
that serial number dates the bass 1967 ... but that is not a 60s 4001s ... I say it is a real Rickenbacker 4001s or 4003s ... the serial number jack plate is not right, the pick guard is not right.

Also was it originally black and then painted white with a yellowed clear coat?

upload_2022-9-8_9-8-33.png


The TRC is a modern TRC (1980s to 2000s)

The pickups look like mid 80s pickups to me.
 
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#35
Rhynobass said:
got it! so, considering july 1996, it would match all the things you noticed before? Like screws on the bridge and the position of the neck pick up?
For what i saw, you are really a rick expert kkkk
Click to expand...

Another thing that makes me suspect this is a legit 90s bass is the design of the pickups; if you look closely at them both, there's the two raised edges on either side of the pole pieces (the black molded sections). That design only started in the mid-90s, no pickups had that look prior to then
 
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#36
a 67 stock 4001s would look like this

different tailpiece, different pickups, different pickguard, different trc, different body wings, different headstock shape, and it would have the tug bar, and different strap buttons, and reverse tuners.

[This invalid link has been removed]
 
#37
rickdog said:
Starting with G means 1967 if followed by a letter (which indicates the month). If it's followed by a digit, it's a newer serial number date code.

G96919 decodes to 1996 at the Rickenbacker Serial Number Decoder

So rest easy, and rock that thang! It's got some mojo, but you need to add some more. How does it play?
Click to expand...

1996 makes sense ... the body wings and headstock shape fit with a 96
 
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#39
Rhynobass said:
Another important thing: it doesnt have the push/pull that would make sense if it was 4003S, right?
Click to expand...

No. The push pull thing was a pretty new feature, like installed in the last 10 years.
My 1993 doesnt have it and neither should anything about 10 years and older.

No parts on this bass look like 1967. Everything on this including the plastic hardcase all look like 1990's. And the seller even says its a 96.

The jack plate is easily swapped. And like the other guy said, doesn't look like it belongs to this bass
 
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#40
rickdog said:
I think it's most likely we're all misreading the serial number. Instead of GAxxxx, could it be G(digit)xxxxx? That would make sense for 1996, and everything else I see here is consistent with that. I don't see any other obvious signs of fakery.

I'm pretty sure the 19th fret marker came and went over the years.
Click to expand...
On closer inspection, the second character, the one after the G, could be an "8."
 
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