That “Fender Stealth Tree” is a washer with a tang on it for $22. I can’t even think of a Mercedes part that is so obviously overpriced. You know where Fender can stick it.
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Yes it will. I do it on my basses that don't have an A string tree and it works.That's where you're wrong, I did not cut it too short. Three (3) turns around a tuning peg is how it's meant to be done. Look at them, they have a rounded part where the turns of the string should stay in place. If it goes below that, it's too much and anyway, it won't as radically correct a string angle as a string tree.
Yes it will. I do it on my basses that don't have an A string tree and it works.
Oh boy! A challenge! OK, Dunlop Flats and Super Bright Nickels.Show me pics. I tried with my set of LaBella's Black Nylon et the angle was barely corrected.
+1 to this, my TI's took about a month of playing before they were noticeably different from new and about 6-7 weeks to properly break in become even , didn't bother me though I just rolled off some treble till they broke in, now they are broken in they have the classic flatwound tone just with a bit more clarity and growl, the low tension is a welcome change for me from the bridge cable feel of most flats.I'll clarify. I actually misread your original post. I don't think the timbre of the A string is much different from the other strings when broken in. The TIs E and A strings come brighter out of the package (almost roundwound sounding), while the D and G sound like proper flats. This all changes when they break in. Just curious, have you let them break in yet? This probably means at least a few months of regular play.
I thought I read you mention something about the feel of the A string in your original post, but I guess not. The feel of the A string to me is always a little unbalanced compared to the other strings. If you play a little heavy and don't compensate when playing the A string, that string can "ping out" easier than the others. If it does that, it'll appear like it has a different timbre. If you put in some time and let them break in and learn to play on the set, it'll sound tonally balanced for sure.
I have an SPB1 in a Squier Jaguar bass, hate it, should have stuck with the stock pickup, the SPB1 really lacks in the midrange and is way too smooth sounding, my Jaguar gets absolutely buried with this pickup and thats with midrange heavy stringsTo my hear, your bass is thumping a lot (which I do like) but maybe we don't perceive it the same? I was thinking about getting SPB1 too... Yes it looks like a Nate Mendel, because originally it had a white pickguard which was replaced by a black one. It just needs the Badass bridge? Also it's above the average "Affinity" PBass cause I got a higher quality neck. But the pickup/electronics are basic, very open sounding but lacks characters. Yes, the TI are there, I'm being patient...
I don't really want to start get too much into this again, but at this point I'm wondering how hard you play. Like we've covered, the TIs are "bouncy" flats in general, more so than many rounds I've played in the same guage. The A is particularly light gauged and has a lot of excursion when plucked. If you haven't noticed that you need lighten up your touch when playing this string set, that may just be the problem. I'm a light-medium/light player as is, but I had to reevaluate my touch when going to TIs. I play with a what I consider medium action, although some might call it a little high.My nut slot works fine with Elixir's, Labella's and Fender strings... why not TI's?
Again, don't understand why some people aren't getting this: TIs are FLATWOUND strings; they need to be broken in like any other flat. Imo/ime, La Bellas sound terrible out of the gate as do Chromes. Guess what, they both sound like great classic flats when they break in. It's like saying a new baseball glove or new pair of Levi 501s are defective cause they're not comfy out the gate. At this point, I question if you've ever played flats, bc this is the same story for almost every set.$60 for a set of strings that you have wear in to minimize defective voicing (which everyone here acknowledges)? Sorry, not interested. Non-overthinking accomplished.
I put them on both of my Fender 5's (B string) and yes, they work as advertised. I recommend them and if I ever get another 5, do it again.That “Fender Stealth Tree” is a washer with a tang on it for $22. I can’t even think of a Mercedes part that is so obviously overpriced. You know where Fender can stick it.
I recorded a sample of my TI on my PBass (new bone nut by the way). Stock pickup (affinity). Rosewood, slim C neck... poopy pickguard (it does have an impect on the sound) :
That's a small price to pay to have a string set that should easily last for many years (I know guys w 10 yr old sets they sound great.) I save more money than guys who are even buying cheap Daddario XLs every 5-6 months.It takes at least 200 hours of play to break TI flats in. That was a long time to decide I don't like them.
Again, don't understand why some people aren't getting this: TIs are FLATWOUND strings; they need to be broken in like any other flat. Imo/ime, La Bellas sound terrible out of the gate as do Chromes. Guess what, they both sound like great classic flats when they break in. It's like saying a new baseball glove or new pair of Levi 501s are defective cause they're not comfy out the gate. At this point, I question if you've ever played flats, bc this is the same story for almost every set.
La Bellas can be expensive too. They're every bit as expensive as TIs if you live overseas. TIs are expensive to us in the States bc they're imported.
Oh boy! A challenge! OK, Dunlop Flats and Super Bright Nickels.
+1 to this, my TI's took about a month of playing before they were noticeably different from new and about 6-7 weeks to properly break in become even , didn't bother me though I just rolled off some treble till they broke in, now they are broken in they have the classic flatwound tone just with a bit more clarity and growl, the low tension is a welcome change for me from the bridge cable feel of most flats.
I don't really want to start get too much into this again, but at this point I'm wondering how hard you play. Like we've covered, the TIs are "bouncy" flats in general, more so than many rounds I've played in the same guage. The A is particularly light gauged and has a lot of excursion when plucked. If you haven't noticed that you need lighten up your touch when playing this string set, that may just be the problem. I'm a light-medium/light player as is, but I had to reevaluate my touch when going to TIs. I play with a what I consider medium action, although some might call it a little high.
Like others have said, the open A string rebound (esp on a Fender w/o a string reatiner) is common. Make sure there is a slight little relief in your neck, and be realistic about the action you can get away with, given you have a bouncy set of strings plus the fretwork of a Squier (not trying to hate, but even MIAs fret work isn't always even). Again, my Fender has a stock nut and was strung w TIs that have TWO wraps around the poles. If I could cut them again, I'd go for three wraps to get a lower break angle, but whatever.
Again, don't understand why some people aren't getting this: TIs are FLATWOUND strings; they need to be broken in like any other flat. Imo/ime, La Bellas sound terrible out of the gate as do Chromes. Guess what, they both sound like great classic flats when they break in. It's like saying a new baseball glove or new pair of Levi 501s are defective cause they're not comfy out the gate. At this point, I question if you've ever played flats, bc this is the same story for almost every set.
La Bellas can be expensive too. They're every bit as expensive as TIs if you live overseas. TIs are expensive to us in the States bc they're imported.
Just saw this! This is the last thing I'll say: these strings sound brand new (less than a month old), which they are. They're not going to sound the way they sound in the clip I posted (for example) till you put time into them like any other flat. I'd give them at least a couple more months... they'll sound warmer, like any other flat. Other than that, they sound fine!That's a small price to pay to have a string set that should easily last for many years (I know guys w 10 yr old sets they sound great.) I save more money than guys who are even buying cheap Daddario XLs every 5-6 months.
Only the labella LTF4A has different story, she already has atleast 80% settle in sound fresh from pack, just give it another 2 weeks, the brighter sounding G will get balance with the rest.
This is a great choice of old school vibe Flatwound for those Player who instantly need broken in sound from new string on his bass.
It's not a design issue. It's not your personal preference, but it's not a design issue. When these strings break in, they're all tonally even in a way most other strings aren't; part of that is due to the gauging of the A string. Strings that are perfectly balanced tension/feel-wise and in tone is hard to come by. There's a compromise there. Obviously, we'd both love it if the A was a guaged a little heavier (I know some guys who love A string the way it is too), but that changes the tone. The TIs are constructed very differently from any other flat, something you can read more about online. In addition, I've never had the issues you're having w the TI A string on any of my Fenders. Yes, it's a little bouncy, I compensate w slightly higher action and a slight relief, done!You admit that it's more bouncy than the rest. That's a design issue.
It doesn't rattle in the slot, and that's what's important. But whatever...I don't really care what you do to be honest. I was just trying to help.That's so funny... on your second picture, we can see a A string angle being totally bad when it has at least 4 turns around the peg, and the rest of the strings have not these 4 turns... in short: more turns change practically nothing.
That's so funny... on your second picture, we can see a A string angle being totally bad when it has at least 4 turns around the peg, and the rest of the strings have not these 4 turns... in short: more turns change practically nothing.
Good point! And more than this for the OP, the others strings (aside from the E string) in JimmyM's picture are at a different break angle bc they're obviously under the string retainer. His A string in BOTH photos is at a normal break angle for a Fender w/o an additional retainer. In regards to break angle, it doesn't matter how many wraps a string has if it's under a string retainer. As for the difference between the E and A string, it's just geometry/physics. All things equal, the string w the tuning post further away (in this case the A string) is going to have a shallower break angle and exert less force on the nut.I think you're missing the whole point... It's not a question of "how many wraps", but "how those wraps are positioned on the post".