Yeah, I don't remember seeing this one. Kept that drawing in my notes. But I've seen each cap position individually, just never combined like MrRobert's circuit. (I like that movie "Mr. Roberts" (1955)...but I digress LOL).
Matt, I know you've seen the following before, so this is for folk passing thru...
The .020uF cap in MrRobert's circuit is connected between the pot lug 1 and ground. This is similar to A and A+ in this drawing of the four common treble control configurations and their pop/scratch attenuator versions (the + drawings):
View attachment 7473592
The .100uF cap in MrRobert's circuit is connected between pot lugs 2 & 3. This is similar to E in this drawing of a rarer treble control version I've seen on some factory basses.:
View attachment 7473603
TB member
@micguy was nice enough to run a Spice simulation on E and F. Very much the same as the 4 common connection types with a only a minor difference that probably isn't noticeable. Anyone interested can read the 2 page thread posted below. It also explains how the pop/scratch attenuator jumper works.:
Hi there,
I just removed the piguard of a bass I keep at my parents house. When I'm here, 2 or 3 times a year, I like to have a bass for playing, it's a super cheap 1987 Hondo-H83 Pbass that a friend gave me maybe 15 or more years ago.
I use it with a zoom b1 and headphones, the volme and tone pot have never worked with me (It's on or off). I wanted to check it out but I have never seen this kind of wiring. What should this solution bring compared to a standard Precision wiring?
Sorry for the poor and ugly digram I made.
Thanks
Really curious about what MrRobert thinks of this new control when he hooks it up.
Unless...it creates an inter-dimensional portal and we never hear from him again...
EDIT: OK, I don't know *** happened with my link to the other thread and why it's showing so much of the first post of that thread. If someone could clue me in on what I did wrong, I'd appreciate it.