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Junker Tune Up

A regulator may run $25 and the bottle I'm not sure, see if HF sells bottles, if not your local welding supply store could hook you up with a bottle fairly cheaply. I would get the bottle and regulator now and not even screw with the flux crap.

I'm in the eastern time zone, current time here as of this posting is 7:30 pm.

Well I dont mind dropping the extra 25 for a better tool.

I am on the very western edge of eastern time, but the post time tags says its 5:30.
 
I would suggest removing everything that you can, and then installing a V8 engine. About 800 horsepower might be about right. Missing bumpers and tailgate are a good start. I wouldn't worry much about exhaust. Straight pipes attached to headers should be sufficient. And, if you are feeling ambitious, put the motor at the front part of the bed for weight balance and scrounge a transaxle so you can keep everything compact.

Then buy a really big insurance policy. It will last five miles or five seconds, whichever comes first.

We did that in an 00 S-10 some years ago. We stuck a single turbo small block into it and ran 7.50 in the quarter mile with a simple tune up. We figured it was good for high .30's to low .40's but the chassis wasn't able to be certified for anything quicker than what we were going.
 
To all the posters suggesting a cap and rotor...... re-read post #2, the 2.2 in his truck doesn't have a distributor.... It has a module and coil packs.
 
If you run at an outlaw track you don't..... We were running at an IHRA sanctioned track and they check chassis certs, as they should when you're going that quick.

Bah! When you are Very Serious All the Time (TM) like I am, then you issue your own certificates.

My 73 Chevy van did 21 second quarters at 64 mph all day every day. No more, no less. You could probably fill it full of bricks and it would have done about the same. Put a jet pack on it, and it probably would have done the same. It was a thundering speed machine. Actually, if I had bothered to get my reaction times down to a science, that old heap would have been the perfect bracket racer.
 

I never looked for it- the wires were under warranty, so I took 15 minutes to change them on a sunny 95 degree afternoon because I had the time and I was really close to the O'Reilley's store. It wasn't a frequent issue, but it annoyed me a bit. Also, I heard the familiar 'snap' as I waited in a fast food line. As soon as I heard it, I went up the street to exchange them. When I sold it a little over a year ago, it had over 300K on it, but it still ran great and I see the guy driving it all the time.
 
I didnt think of borrowing a gauge for the fuel pressure thats a good idea. We dont have an O'Reilley's in my home town where I am doing the work. I have been using advanced since I started wrenching so I prefer to go there anyway. I am there often enough that the guy just gave me a part and told me to pay for it later when I had forgotten my wallet.

I dont have the tools or expereince to check timing and other things like that. There is a "mechanic" at my gf's house, but I dont really trust him after watching him put water from a half frozen jug into a radiator in december :rollno:

Oh and thanks for the heads up on the rust, I hadnt thought of that and will try to plan ahead.

Advance and Pep Boys loan tools, too. If you think you'll use it more often, go to Sears and buy one- the one I bought when I was servicing boats has a bleeder valve and a clear vinyl tube, for removing air from the gauge and it makes taking a fuel sample very easy. I use a clear, clean pop bottle and let it sit for about 1/2 hour, to see what settles out.

If it's TBI and you want to check the fuel spray from the injectors, you would remove the air filter, connect a timing light, start the engine and aim the timing light at the injectors. When you squeeze the trigger, it's like stop-action and it lets you see if the gas sprays out in a continuous cone, or if it has 'tears', which can cause uneven/inadequate fuel delivery. If you see 'tears' in the fuel cone, use some fuel system cleaner with Techron BEFORE changing the fuel filter. The fuel system cleaner can loosen crud that's in the tank and it would waste the new filter. Have the new filter ready to go, though.

I used to work on Mastercraft ski boats and they sent us to Syracuse, IN for training. We did the on-water training at Lake Wawasee.
 
Well it appears I did not look close enough at that ad. I dont have 240 service in the garage where I will be working on it at. The other house has it, but the garage is unusable do to junk and animals which dont get cleaned up after.

Guess I will be stuck with a flux core :hmm: Unless I can find one at rural king tommorow. Ill check online after I am done posting this.

Or I put 50 foot long plug on the machine to get to the basement and use the dryer plug or into the kichen for the old stove. I kinda doubt my stepmom wants me welding exhaust in her kitchen....

I guess on the upside I can spend more on tires now since the flux core 120v is about $120.

On a side note, is it 110v 220v etc or 120v 240v etc?
 
Like mike n has said, steer clear of flux core on that thin stuff. We use it at work for fabricating and outside work, but it runs pretty hot. And it can be finicky with certain wire. I used flux core to repair a 7 yard bucket on a Cat 970 loader. Material is an inch thick. Just sayin.....

Good luck with your project though.
 
Do you have a website where I could just stare at engine pics all day?

I searched all over the web looking for old pics of that truck and came up empty handed. The shop we were running at the time that we screwed that thing together is long out of business so the website is gone, too.

This was back at least 10 years ago if not a little longer. We built some pretty crazy stuff back in the day and won all sorts of awards & championships with our stuff as well as national magazine coverage for our builds. Good times to say the least.