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Junker Tune Up

G

graver555

Nov 6, 2012
89
1
Monticello IN
#1
So I bought a 98 s10 off of craigslist for around 850. That was my first mistake. It has a 2.2l with :help: 283k

The problems with it are:
Occasional bouts of misfiring
2 feet of exhaust missing before the muffler where the o2 sensor is
Bald Tires

It also had no bumper or tailgate, a bad alternator, and a starter cable that was grounding out because the casing was melted off.

So far I have: replaced alternator, starter and cable, made a wooden rear bumper, and replaced a couple sections of hard brake line when they blew out. I havnt done the oil as it looked virgin when I bought it.

I am going to use my next check in advanced to get it running better. I am expecting around 400. I am thinking of buying a welder and learning to weld and run a new exhaust, but since I am doing that I figured I would put it out the side since it would be a convienint place, and putting a 24 inch glasspack on. I will need a welder anyway to do alot of panel repair on the bed anyway. I think I am going to buy a 115v fluxcore for 150 off craigslist.

Then I am going to replace the fuel filter and hope that fixes the misfiring because if it dosnt I will do cap, wires and plugs but they look like a pain.

Whatever left over I was gonna spend on front tires.

Does this sound like a good plan of attack? Also is there anything else on the truck that it would be better to spend the money on and get better parts and where can I skimp? I know better plugs at best just last a bit longer but what about wires and the such? Is it possible to use high temp paint on the exhaust to make it last longer?

Sorry for an uber long post, but I wanted to make sure I was spending money wisely and I figured picking others brains who have been doing it longer would be the best way.
 
#2
You overpaid for that heap to begin with, but I think you already know that.

Start with plugs and wires for the misfire. That 2.2 shouldn't have a cap so you're all set there unless a coil pack or the module is junk. If the misfire is intermittent the plugs and wires should solve your problem. Use Delco plugs and a quality set of wires, no Bosch plugs and avoid cheap wires like the plague.

If it's the downstream 02 sensor that's missing it won't affect driveability, that sensor is there to monitor catalyst efficiency and nothing else. Still, fixing the exhaust is a good idea. Don't waste $ on hi temp paint, it won't help.

Flux core welders suck, plain and simple. You want a wire feed with a shielding gas, otherwise known as a MIG welder.

Good tires are nice, buy some.
 
#5
Borg-Warner Select plug wires - exact fit, very good quality, good price

NGK plugs - nothing fancy, direct OEM replacements

AC/Declo cap and rotor

They might cure the missing.

NAPA Gold aka Wix for filters.

I'd fix the exhaust with pipe, couplings, JB Weld, and a hacksaw.
 
#6
Mike N said:
Flux core welders suck, plain and simple. You want a wire feed with a shielding gas, otherwise known as a MIG welder.

Good tires are nice, buy some.
Click to expand...

I know flux core are not very good but I will only be using it rarely. This and body work are the only things I can think of. When I do my bumpers I am probably going to either use some batterys and a stick, or have a shop weld when I am done fabbing.

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

So would this one not get the job done? I really dont want to spend much more then this, unless I am getting a generator/welder combo and those are way out of my price range.

Is it possible to somehow jerry rig a bottle of shielding gas to a small torch and use core'less wire with a helper with this machine?
 
#8
graver555 said:
I know flux core are not very good but I will only be using it rarely. This and body work are the only things I can think of. When I do my bumpers I am probably going to either use some batterys and a stick, or have a shop weld when I am done fabbing.

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

So would this one not get the job done? I really dont want to spend much more then this, unless I am getting a generator/welder combo and those are way out of my price range.

Is it possible to somehow jerry rig a bottle of shielding gas to a small torch and use core'less wire with a helper with this machine?
Click to expand...

Spend the extra couple bucks and get this....

Invalid Link Removed

For the little you'll use it a HF welder is more than adequate. Fwiw I have a HF MIG at the shop that I've beat the snot out of for 20+ years and it's been a great welder. You'll need a regulator (or flow valve) and an argon/co2 mix bottle to round out the package but you'll be better off in the long run. Flux core sucks, especially for body work..... you'll wind up burning thru sheet metal with a flux welder.
 
#10
Mike N said:
Spend the extra couple bucks and get this....

Invalid Link Removed

For the little you'll use it a HF welder is more than adequate. Fwiw I have a HF MIG at the shop that I've beat the snot out of for 20+ years and it's been a great welder. You'll need a regulator (or flow valve) and an argon/co2 mix bottle to round out the package but you'll be better off in the long run. Flux core sucks, especially for body work..... you'll wind up burning thru sheet metal with a flux welder.
Click to expand...

I could afford that. How much is the regulator and mix bottle? Is it something I could buy once I start with the body work or will it make a big enough difference on the exhaust tubing to just buy it now.

I am a big component of buying nice high quality tools, but I am just not in a situation where spending money on a rarely used tool is possible.

Side note what time zone is this forum in? I looked at the time stamps on the posts and became very confused, I think I am 2 hours ahead.
 
#12
I would suggest removing everything that you can, and then installing a V8 engine. About 800 horsepower might be about right. Missing bumpers and tailgate are a good start. I wouldn't worry much about exhaust. Straight pipes attached to headers should be sufficient. And, if you are feeling ambitious, put the motor at the front part of the bed for weight balance and scrounge a transaxle so you can keep everything compact.

Then buy a really big insurance policy. It will last five miles or five seconds, whichever comes first.
 
#15
Gaolee said:
I would suggest removing everything that you can, and then installing a V8 engine. About 800 horsepower might be about right. Missing bumpers and tailgate are a good start. I wouldn't worry much about exhaust. Straight pipes attached to headers should be sufficient. And, if you are feeling ambitious, put the motor at the front part of the bed for weight balance and scrounge a transaxle so you can keep everything compact.
Click to expand...

Naw has already been done.



If I was gonna do that much fab, I would swap the bed and cab positions, so you are sitting looking into the bed/engine. Be really unique then.
 
#16
graver555 said:
So I bought a 98 s10 off of craigslist for around 850. That was my first mistake. It has a 2.2l with :help: 283k

The problems with it are:
Occasional bouts of misfiring
2 feet of exhaust missing before the muffler where the o2 sensor is
Bald Tires

It also had no bumper or tailgate, a bad alternator, and a starter cable that was grounding out because the casing was melted off.

So far I have: replaced alternator, starter and cable, made a wooden rear bumper, and replaced a couple sections of hard brake line when they blew out. I havnt done the oil as it looked virgin when I bought it.

I am going to use my next check in advanced to get it running better. I am expecting around 400. I am thinking of buying a welder and learning to weld and run a new exhaust, but since I am doing that I figured I would put it out the side since it would be a convienint place, and putting a 24 inch glasspack on. I will need a welder anyway to do alot of panel repair on the bed anyway. I think I am going to buy a 115v fluxcore for 150 off craigslist.

Then I am going to replace the fuel filter and hope that fixes the misfiring because if it dosnt I will do cap, wires and plugs but they look like a pain.

Whatever left over I was gonna spend on front tires.

Does this sound like a good plan of attack? Also is there anything else on the truck that it would be better to spend the money on and get better parts and where can I skimp? I know better plugs at best just last a bit longer but what about wires and the such? Is it possible to use high temp paint on the exhaust to make it last longer?

Sorry for an uber long post, but I wanted to make sure I was spending money wisely and I figured picking others brains who have been doing it longer would be the best way.
Click to expand...

Check the fuel pressure and take a fuel sample- the fuel line has a Shrader valve over the intake (it has a black cap on it). If you don't have a pressure gauge, you can borrow one from Autozone, etc. While you're at it, change the plug wires, cap/rotor and plugs. I started using the Borg Warner Gold series cap & rotor when I was doing boat service- they have lifetime warranty. I use plug wires that have the same. I started going to O'Reilley's because their prices are good, they usually stock what I need and a lot of it has lifetime warranty.

Check the timing- IIRC, base timing is 10°BTDC, bit if you just start the engine and look at the timing indicator, it will jump around and you can't check it that way- you need to put it in Service Mode. An OBD scanner will often have a switch that will do this. You have OBD II, so the old paper clip method won't work on yours.

Without that O2 sensor, you can't be sure of whether the timing/fuel mixture is right, so you might want to get that fixed first. Since the fuel filter is probably rusted to the fuel lines, buy the repair kit- it's a lot easier and less annoying.

Run it at night (in total darkness) and rev it with the hood open- look in the area of each spark plug, the wires and the cap/coil- if you see arcing, replace the wires, plugs and cap/rotor. I had a stumble with my '90 Silverado and it turned out to be cross-fire. Since the plug wires were under warranty, I replaced them before anything else and that cured it.
 
#18
1958Bassman said:
Check the fuel pressure and take a fuel sample- the fuel line has a Shrader valve over the intake (it has a black cap on it). If you don't have a pressure gauge, you can borrow one from Autozone, etc. While you're at it, change the plug wires, cap/rotor and plugs. I started using the Borg Warner Gold series cap & rotor when I was doing boat service- they have lifetime warranty. I use plug wires that have the same. I started going to O'Reilley's because their prices are good, they usually stock what I need and a lot of it has lifetime warranty.

Check the timing- IIRC, base timing is 10°BTDC, bit if you just start the engine and look at the timing indicator, it will jump around and you can't check it that way- you need to put it in Service Mode. An OBD scanner will often have a switch that will do this. You have OBD II, so the old paper clip method won't work on yours.

Without that O2 sensor, you can't be sure of whether the timing/fuel mixture is right, so you might want to get that fixed first. Since the fuel filter is probably rusted to the fuel lines, buy the repair kit- it's a lot easier and less annoying.

Run it at night (in total darkness) and rev it with the hood open- look in the area of each spark plug, the wires and the cap/coil- if you see arcing, replace the wires, plugs and cap/rotor. I had a stumble with my '90 Silverado and it turned out to be cross-fire. Since the plug wires were under warranty, I replaced them before anything else and that cured it.
Click to expand...

I didnt think of borrowing a gauge for the fuel pressure thats a good idea. We dont have an O'Reilley's in my home town where I am doing the work. I have been using advanced since I started wrenching so I prefer to go there anyway. I am there often enough that the guy just gave me a part and told me to pay for it later when I had forgotten my wallet.

I dont have the tools or expereince to check timing and other things like that. There is a "mechanic" at my gf's house, but I dont really trust him after watching him put water from a half frozen jug into a radiator in december :rollno:

Oh and thanks for the heads up on the rust, I hadnt thought of that and will try to plan ahead.
 
#19
graver555 said:
I could afford that. How much is the regulator and mix bottle? Is it something I could buy once I start with the body work or will it make a big enough difference on the exhaust tubing to just buy it now.

I am a big component of buying nice high quality tools, but I am just not in a situation where spending money on a rarely used tool is possible.

Side note what time zone is this forum in? I looked at the time stamps on the posts and became very confused, I think I am 2 hours ahead.
Click to expand...

A regulator may run $25 and the bottle I'm not sure, see if HF sells bottles, if not your local welding supply store could hook you up with a bottle fairly cheaply. I would get the bottle and regulator now and not even screw with the flux crap.

I'm in the eastern time zone, current time here as of this posting is 7:30 pm.
 

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