• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Just opened up my 210MBE...

#423
I made this drawing for another purpose, but you'll get the idea I think:::

Top.png
 
#427
Just wanted to say "thank you" to everyone who helped me fix my rattling issues. I put 2 braces going from the baffle to the back of the speaker enclosure (skipped the side to side and top to bottom braces) and lined the inside with polyester batting (I also placed an extra layer of the lining directly behind each of the speakers).

I did some recording yesterday and it sounded so good that halfway through, we decided to mic it instead of taking a DI. I hope to have the recordings available for you guys soon.

Another TB success story! Thank you all so much!
 
#429
GroovinOnFunk said:
Just wanted to say "thank you" to everyone who helped me fix my rattling issues. I put 2 braces going from the baffle to the back of the speaker enclosure (skipped the side to side and top to bottom braces) and lined the inside with polyester batting (I also placed an extra layer of the lining directly behind each of the speakers).

I did some recording yesterday and it sounded so good that halfway through, we decided to mic it instead of taking a DI. I hope to have the recordings available for you guys soon.

Another TB success story! Thank you all so much!
Click to expand...

Good news. :) Remember, less panel vibration means better sensitivity (your cab being louder per given wattage as you're not losing energy by way of mechanical movement), as well as being more solid and now with appropriate damping.
 
#430
Doug Parent said:
Before and after pics.
Click to expand...

Hey Doug--how did you take this photo? (The one on the left in post #404). Did you remove the wooden panel around the amp chassis? At first I thought you might have stuck a camera in the other speaker hole, but you've got both speakers loaded.

Just curious.

I've been using my MB210 cabinet as a stand-alone cabinet for a few weeks, as the amp is out for repair. Scratching my head at how you got that shot of the inside.

--Steve
 
#431
Will get pics up tonight if possible. I did take some pictures throughout the process.

Stev187, I'd recommend not waiting until you have issues to do the modification. You might find yourself in a position like I was in: Discovering that your amp/cab is making the most horrific and very very loud rattling noises during soundcheck before a gig.

The process was a little messy (with the PL glue) but very very easy. No power tools needed (though that does facilitate the process). Plenty of people recommended that I do a side-to-side brace also but I didn't... I put 2 front to back braces instead since the issue was in the baffle. This also reduces vibration through both the sides and top and bottom though by bracing the baffle (the only point of contact between the speakers and the enclosure). So, my recommendation is to use at least 2 braces, but place them where you think will work best given your situation... Also, be advised that adding the lining will drastically (in my opinion) change the sound. So much tighter and punchier. My bandmates noticed a change in the sound and they didn't even know I did anything to it... so I don't' think it's psychosomatic.
 
#432
GroovinOnFunk said:
Plenty of people recommended that I do a side-to-side brace also but I didn't...
Click to expand...
Even a single side to side and top to bottom brace can make a huge difference, being the equivalent of doubling the panel thickness.

Also, be advised that adding the lining will drastically (in my opinion) change the sound. So much tighter and punchier
Click to expand...
Go to any loudspeaker design site and suggest not lining a cab and you'll be chided as a clueless noob. I could point to at least three open threads on such sites right now, discussing not the worth of damping, but rather the best materials to use, including very sophisticated measurements that IME no electric bass cab manufacturer would ever consider taking, with the possible exceptions of Alex and Duke.
 
#434
Just picked up a 115MBE used in Chicago and figured I'd upload a photo of the guts.

115mbe%2Binside.jpg


Some kind of bracing in there. Trying to track down a bit of a flappy rattle on certain notes. Notice that loose tolex in the port? Any chance that could be flapping? I glued it back down but won't be able to crank it until tomorrow night.

Hope this photo helps somebody.

--Steve
 
#436
From the photo it appears that the driver is attached with screws to a single layer of 1/2 inch plywood. If that's the case it's inadequate. I'd glue 1/2" plywood blocks to the back of the baffle to increase screw retention. The bracing is also inadequate. The same bracing to the top and bottom should be done on the sides.
 
#438
WingKL said:
Would T-nuts or hurricane nuts work as well for screw retention?
Click to expand...

They do but they can also vibrate loose, use a little lockwasher with them or put a little silicone caulk or teflon tape or something on the threads for a little extra grip. Not loc-tite, you do want to be able to get loose if you need to, just something for extra grip. I've used wood screws on most of my stuff and have never had a problem coming loose. I do put little blocks behind the screw holes to make the wood there double thick and drill the pilot hole a little smaller than one normally would. They bite in and stay put.
 
#440
johnnybass01 said:
I didn't realize there were so many expert cab builders here on this site , and if you are so good at building a cabinet then just build your own. or you can do the simple thing and just turn down the bass control.I have been using my mb212 for a year now with no issues , it is a little boomy , but if I turn down the bass control there is no issue, and I doubt you can find something in the same price range that is any better.
Click to expand...

I built a fEARful 15/6/1 and it's so much better than any GK speaker I've ever heard I can't even believe it. I like GK heads but the speakers leave me cold. My MBE115 (combo, is that right?) has always sounded bosomy and indistinct to me. The tweeter is useless to me, it adds unpleasant hi frequencies but no low treble, so there is a huge hole in between the response of the 15 and the tweeter. I'm really interested in a MB800 or a fusion 800, but their cabinets don't do it for me.

But if you like the sound, more power to you! :bassist:
 

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back