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Just opened up my 210MBE...

If any of you guys are still under warranty and thinking of modding your combo's be fore warned this will VOID YOUR WARRANTY. And some of you should take a little more time thinking about why they braced them the way they did and also maybe there is a reason there is no damping material inside? I am sure a company Like GK has done testing and a whole bunch of R&D with testing equipment we can't even afford . along with real world testing , and Maybe they are boomy so to speak because of the way the preamp is voiced , and no mater what type of damping is used this won't be corrected if it is a preamp voicing issue. I don't typically follow any one individual's suggestion to add damping , or bracing to make a so called KIT BUILD, and I think the majority of people here should not do so either. GK has excellent customer service, and is very good about standing behind what they sell. Back when I lived in Los angeles , I had a direct hookup with SWR before they were bought out and had a lot of time spent at their facility . and saw first hand what goes into the design of a cabinet and why they do things the way the do.If you take a look inside of some of those cabinets you will see no bracing what soever. I mean most here can't even fathom the amount of money GK invests in developing a product. I have had a problem with 2 GK MB212 combo's and altough initially I was upset. they have rectified the situation both times. In a timely manner . I had an eden head years ago that went bad under warranty , I took 6 months to get resolved. JUST MY TWO CENTS
 
I have a new 410MBE and this cab has a TON of bracing inside and passes the "thump" resonance test just fine. No, it doesn't have foam lining the insides but who gives a crap.

It's actually a very interesting design inside, each 10 speaker has it's own partial enclosed box which opens towards the inside - meaning that each area from the speaker to the back and sides of the box is heavily braced. This doesn't leave open expanses of side wall or back wall to put foam on. It has a ton of bracing inside.

I don't find any of the new MB series cabs to be "boomy" or "woofy" (the MB210 combo is a bit "bassy" but nothing EQ can't remedy)

I have been gigging my MB115 HARD for a year and a half now in all kinds of conditions, with and without PA support - playing BOTH upright bass and electric bass gigs and I have nothing but great things to say about it, volume AND tone wise.

My new MB410 sounds great and is not boomy or odd sounding at all. I was lucky enough to get a tour of the Stockton GK facility when I picked up my MB410 and was very impressed with the muliple stages of QC the products see before getting out to the customers.
 
Listen, I've played these things. Lots of other people have too. The 2x10 sounds like a boomy piece of junk. I love GK stuff and I'm a huge fan, but that cabinet is underbraced and underdamped.

I agree, and I just completed a dampening job on a friends GK MB210. Boomy for days before, tight and much more refined afterwards without all that midrange clutter that was there before. Just my .02. I got polyester batting at a local fabric store for $4.00 and 30 minutes of effort.

Before and after pics.
 
I'm thinking that the 9V test for resonance suggested by (IIRC) BFM might be misleading for the 212MBE I just bought.

After reading 100+ pages of posts, hearing some concerns and peering inside the cab, I became concerned about lack of damping/lining. BFM suggested a knock test and a 9V test. I'm a TB noob, so my apologies for not having the patience to respond in an optimum format with pix, etc. The three cabs I tried passed the knock test - no obvious hollowness/resonance. The 9v test consists of touching a 9V battery to the tip and sleeve of a speaker cable connected to the cab and observing ringing as contact is made and broken. The 212MBE showed a damped sinusoidal ringing, indicating resonance/underdamping. I estimate Q=5 at about 75 Hz (D2), undesirably resonant IMHO. The other two cabs were much lower Q/less resonant, at about 100-110 Hz (G2 to A2). I've used those cabs 4-5 years and have no big complaints. However, when driven by an SVT3-PRO, all three cabs, including the 212BME, were low Q, I'm guessing Q=2. That there's less resonance when driven by an amp seems consistent with the idea, borne out by circuit theory and experience, that the low source resistance of a real amp controls resonance. No doubt the SVT3 Zsource is much, much lower, and the current capability much, much higher, than a 9V battery! I haven't read everything on TB or this thread, I realize that there are more sophisticated measurements than I've made, I understand that low Q is good, cab resonances are bad, there are AES papers on lining, etc., but I suspect that perhaps too much is being made of the lack of lining in this particular cab.

I have gigged the 212MBE once so far. It sounded fine live and in the recording. It's definitely brighter than my other two Ampeg cabs, see below, but I've no objections. I suspect that a lot of frequency response detail is masked on stage. The 34 lb. of one cab is a significant advantage compared to the 110 lb. of my other two cabs!

How did I test with a 9V? By ear, first, then with a Shure beta58A mic about 4" in front of each driver into a mixer and a Mac running Amadeus Pro, which enabled waveforms, normalized amplitudes and spectra. Yes, the vocal mic has presence—the same for all three cabs—the measurement wasn't anechoic, I don't think I clipped, etc., etc. I've been playing since '65 and have a BS Physics and an MSEE, which all together with $2 will get you a latte. I just mean I'm only a noob to this forum and tried to do a reasonable quick and dirty measurement.

The cabs: 1) SVT15E, 2) SVT210HE, 3) 212MBE (4ohms).

There are 6-10 TB stalwarts whose contributions have helped immeasurably in updating my rig. BFM is one I've paid a lot of attention to—I don't mean to contradict his wealth of experience and knowledge nor anyone else's. Everyone has helped out tremendously with the ratings/specs issues, which remind me of the bad old 70s days of hi-fi pre-FTC regs. That combined with the recession-induced decimation of retail stock makes it difficult to judge new cabs by ear, so TB has been incredibly helpful.

I just think that the 9V test perhaps overstates the cab resonance concerns for the 212MBE.

Cheers,
LOLeaux
 
I just think that the 9V test perhaps overstates the cab resonance concerns for the 212MBE.

Cheers,
LOLeaux
The 9v test reveals whether or not the cab will boom. Controlling boom is only half the reason for damping. The other half is controlling internal midrange reflections that cause peaks and valleys in the mids; the 9v test doesn't reveal that.
 
The 9v test reveals whether or not the cab will boom. Controlling boom is only half the reason for damping. The other half is controlling internal midrange reflections that cause peaks and valleys in the mids; the 9v test doesn't reveal that.

Bill, thanks for pointing out the midrange issue. Many posts and some measurements on my two lined and one unlined cabs show the extent and periodicity of the raggedness. Worth fixing.

Anyone aware of Mac software that'll generate & measure sweep frequency response? I'd like to measure w/o & w/ lining. Point by point is just too much work & I'm short on time at the moment. Thanks in advance!
 
Anyone aware of Mac software that'll generate & measure sweep frequency response? I'd like to measure w/o & w/ lining. Point by point is just too much work & I'm short on time at the moment. Thanks in advance!
A program like HolmImpulse is what you need, along with the requisite hardware.
 
I need to reopen this thread. I apologize, but I hope I can maybe get some assistance. My MB210 has grown temperamental lately and I have a large string of shows coming up so I need to fix it ASAP. When I play a D (on my 4 string.... works especially on 10th fret E string), I get an intense and incredible rattle.
If I take off the grill and press on the piece of wood that are holding the speakers hard, then it goes away. I need to put some bracing in there (and might as well line it while I"m at it) but is the only way to get into it from the front? by removing the speakers? I've never tried something like this and am very nervous as I cannot afford to replace this.

Please help! :help:
 
Well... I can't figure out how to disconnect the speakers :-(

I fear that I might have a crack in the baffle. I mean, I have to press down really hard on it for it not to flutter while I play. Bracing might be a temporary solution, but I'm preparing myself for the worst case scenario.
 
The red and black wires in that photo look like they're the type of connectors that slide on over a tab. If you pull them straight off they should slide out. Hold at the connector, don't pull on the wire or you might pull the wire out of the crimp (not the end of the world if you have crimpers though).
 
So, just grab it over the plastic sleeve where it meets the speaker and just pull on it? I'm always hesitant to yank things...

Grrrr... this has got me on pins and needles. I'm so nervous about getting this back in full operation. I have a bunch of gigs coming up.
 
If you grab with needle nose grab at the barrel and go easy. Don't grab by the spade or you'll pinch it on the tab and could damage it. Don't pull on the wire at all or you could pull it loose.
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