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Kala Ubass Megathread, Part 1

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Legend has it that if you don't restring it you might snap the tuner.

Legend has it right. I broke a tuner within a month of buying mine. It was shortly after they came out, and the news about them potentially breaking hadn't really come out yet. It was still strung from the factory, but as the string stretched the number of wraps just became too great and it snapped. Take them seriously when they say not to let the wraps go onto the base of the tuner. They will break.

Kala's customer service was really good. They sent me a new one for free.
 
I've read that you can take it carry-on to a plane no problem; has anyone played it during the flight with headphones on? Or is it too loud acoustically so it would disturb other passengers?

It would make a long flight more enjoyable....
 
OK, so it's been a few months since I got my HH Signature U-Bass. I like it a lot but when I want to do any recording (just demos, fun stuff, etc.) the intonation problems make me reach for the Jazz, just to get things done. It's weird but it seems to have its good days and its bad days - or is it just me?

I have resorted to pitch-correction software (You cad! You bounder!) which, of course, fixes the intonation stuff. Anyone else tried that? Doesn't seem right, though.

One thing I haven't done is to remove the strings and restring from scratch. I'll give that a try and if it's still no good, there's a new set of Pahoehoes lying around that might do the trick.

Got the idea recently to give the spruce top a paint job - maybe tobacco sunburst. A friend of mine knows a pro who will do it as a favour for him (i.e. at no cost to me), so I'll take the plunge. I'm not a huge fan of the very light coloured top, but the mahogany doesn't really do it for me, either.

Apologies if it's already been covered here but has anyone else painted their U-Bass? I guess it would be bordering on sacrilige to do that to a 'hog but the spruce tops and particularly the HH with the groovy slots and cutaway seem to be well suited for it.

I'll keep y'all posted.
 
Got a chance to compare the spruce to the mahogany top this week. There's definitely a bit of a tonal difference with the spruce being more bright acousticaly. Plugged in, they sounded the same to me though.

Regarding painting, the finish on my spruce top is extremely thin! Honestly, it could do with a bit of further sanding as well. If I were to choose to alter the finish, I would first contact Kala to find out what sort of product was used at the factory (to make sure a compatible finish is applied on top). Possibly a careful sanding down to 1500 grit or so then a tinted topcoat. A sunburst with mahogany back & sides would look weird to me.
 
A sunburst with mahogany back & sides would look weird to me.
OK, then. How about something like this?

George Harrison’s ROCKY Stratocaster.jpg


:D
 
Does anyone else have problems with the output jack coming loose? I have a spruce model, the acoustic ubass. This seems to be happening more and more and it is a BEAR to tighten. I think the leather strap is aggravating the problem, I need to find an alternate for strapping it on. I tried some blue loctite last night, have it sitting right now, we'll see if that helps. It's tough to access this thing to tighten or loctite it!!
 
Does anyone else have problems with the output jack coming loose? I have a spruce model, the acoustic ubass. This seems to be happening more and more and it is a BEAR to tighten. I think the leather strap is aggravating the problem, I need to find an alternate for strapping it on. I tried some blue loctite last night, have it sitting right now, we'll see if that helps. It's tough to access this thing to tighten or loctite it!!

I had that happen. I just opened the cover on the back and tightened it. No problem, took 5 minutes. If I had Locktite it would have been pretty easy to put a drop on it.
 
Must be my large sized hands, I thought it was a pain through the little trap door, and hard to reach to cinch it down. So far the loctite is working.

The only trouble I had was getting the door off. It is a very tight fit on my bass, and I couldn't get it off with just my fingers. I ended up using a very small jewelers screwdriver to pry it up, because that is the only thing thin enough to fit in the gap. And I had to be very careful not to mar the wood when I did it.

A wrench like these, with the right length extension and ratchet (preferably in 1/4" drive), would help in tightening the nut:

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The only trouble I had was getting the door off. It is a very tight fit on my bass, and I couldn't get it off with just my fingers. I ended up using a very small jewelers screwdriver to pry it up, because that is the only thing thin enough to fit in the gap. And I had to be very careful not to mar the wood when I did it.

A wrench like these, with the right length extension and ratchet (preferably in 1/4" drive), would help in tightening the nut:

Invalid Link Removed


Thanks for the tip!! When I took the door off (I also had to use a jeweler's screwdriver to pry it off), one corner must have had some adhesive stuck to it because it stayed put, breaking off around the screw hole. I managed to get it glued back together and functional, however that screw hole is now stripped. One problem led to another......

I will look at the wrench set!
 
Thanks for the tip!! When I took the door off (I also had to use a jeweler's screwdriver to pry it off), one corner must have had some adhesive stuck to it because it stayed put, breaking off around the screw hole. I managed to get it glued back together and functional, however that screw hole is now stripped. One problem led to another......

I will look at the wrench set!

Interesting, they must be making improvements on the fly at Kala. Mine does not have screws for the cover plate on the back, it's held in place with 4 magnets. But just like yours, the fit is tight enough that I had to use a small screwdriver to pry it up. Ideally, they would have lowered one corner support to allow a pressure point so the lid would pop up if you pushed on it. Oh well, I don't anticipate getting in there very often, I guess to to change strings.
Speaking of which, I should probably get a spare set of these strings since I'm sure they'll be an internet order (doubt Guitar Center carries them).
Anyone buy strings yet, and if so where, how much and are there any brand choices?
 
What can you say about the tuning stability of these?

If I tune it, will it stay in tune for, say, an hour, or is the kind of instrument that you're re-tuning every few songs?

I have GAS for one, and I don't want to be disappointed with bad tuning stability. Informed comments?
 
SBassman said:
What can you say about the tuning stability of these?

If I tune it, will it stay in tune for, say, an hour, or is the kind of instrument that you're re-tuning every few songs?

I have GAS for one, and I don't want to be disappointed with bad tuning stability. Informed comments?

Once the strings are 'broken in', it stays in tune pretty well. In a live situation, I check the tuning every half dozen songs or so. It's usually still in tune or close enough.

Breaking in a new set takes some time, however! I just put new strings on a week ago and have had to re-install the stretched out strings twice. But now, its holding good tuning.
 
GBassNorth said:
...
Anyone buy strings yet, and if so where, how much and are there any brand choices?

I bought a few sets from Sweetwater.com recently. I think they were a little over $20 per set. They are 'Pahohoe' strings made by road toad music.

There is another material available from an independent maker (there's a video of them here on TB somewhere). They were white in color and very trebly in the video.
 
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