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Kala UBass Megathread, Part 2

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That low string on the right-side red fiver looks outta whack, seems to be excess space between the B and the E compared to the rest of the string spacing – or? Actually, looks like the E is askew at the bridge. Anyway...

So far, Kala hasn't come forth with my perfect U-Bass:
I'd like the acoustic Acacia, but fretless.
I'd like the solid 5-er Cali, but in "Gretsch" orange (and the Acacia fretless in orange)
Alternatively to the Acacia: I'd like the new acoustic "Exotic Mahogany" (in orange of course), but fretless and with the better Hipshot tuners etc.


I would love to see a model using a rectangular body, like a Bo Diddley, but solid body. Or maybe even hollow body. I love that body shape.

+1
Maybe the Gretsch Mini-Bo's could be converted to U-Bass hardware/specs? Could probably pick up a Mini-Bo for cheap on EekBay.

The scale length is damn close! Can somebody tell me what the Kala's nut width is? (4 + 5 string if you've got 'em, please.)

The G8550 is 8" x 15-1/2" x 1-5/8" with 20 Frets and a 21.40" Scale. The Mini Diddley features a single Humbucker pickup, Maple bolt-on Neck with Rosewood Fingerboard, a wraparound Tailpiece, black body and Headstock Binding, one volume and one tone control, a 2 way pickup enhancement switch, and die cast tuners.

MODEL NAME G5850, Mini Diddley
MODEL NUMBER 251-5406-(515)
SERIES Electromatic Signature Series
COLORS (515) Red
CATEGORY Solid Body Guitars
BODY STYLE Bo Diddley Rectangle
SCALE LENGTH 21.4" (543mm)
TOP Laminated Hardwood
BRACING N/A
BACK AND Sides Luan Body, 15-1/2" Long, 8" Wide, 1-5/8" Deep
NECK Maple
PICKUPS 1 Chrome Mini Humbucking Pickup
PICKUP SWITCHING None
CONTROLS Volume, Tone
2-Position Toggle Pickup Enhancement Switch
WIDTH AT Nut 1-11/16" (43mm)
FRETBOARD Rosewood
BRIDGE Wrap-Around Bridge
TAILPIECE N/A
HARDWARE Chrome-Plated
FINISH Gloss Urethane
CASE Optional G2167 Gig Bag, US MSRP $40.00, 0996463000
NO. OF Frets 20
MACHINE HEADS Chrome-Plated Die-cast Tuners
UNIQUE FEATURES Bo Diddley Signature on Trussrod Cover,
Pearloid Dot Position Inlays,
Knurled Strap Retainer Knobs,
Adjustable Truss Rod
 
That low string on the right-side red fiver looks outta whack, seems to be excess space between the B and the E compared to the rest of the string spacing – or? Actually, looks like the E is askew at the bridge. Anyway...

...

The scale length is damn close! Can somebody tell me what the Kala's nut width is? (4 + 5 string if you've got 'em, please.)

The E string probably just shifted and could be fixed by pushing it back in place with your fingers.

On my solid body U-Basses, the strings are held in place by tension by being drawn over the bridge, which is un-grooved and the stock poly rubber strings are also a bit stretchy. Plus, IIRC, the shot Munji posted was taken at NAMM or some other convention where the instrument has been messed with all day.

I wouldn't be surprised if the strings got messed with at the booth and re-hung with the E string off axis. If you want, it's not hard to reach down and pull them askew over the saddle witness point. It's just as easy to fix by shifting the string back into position.

If that seems alarming in theory, it's actually nothing to worry about in practice. I've been gigging with mine and it's not a problem. I pull really hard on some of the tunes we play and I've not had any issue with the strings shifting durning an actual performance.

As far as the nut width goes, the one on my 4 string SUB is 4.5 cm or roughly 1.75 inches wide by my ruler.
 
Thanks bad_andy, for letting me know your nut width, I mean, your U-bass's nut width. :hiding:

So the Gretsch would be a bit narrow, but still do-able I think. Still, it's all relative and even from my limited experience 2mm is a huge difference in feel. Hmmm...

As for the E-string in the photo, yeah, I realised it wasn't the issue I initially thought it was.
 
As a joke during service, I have held like an upright in my lap. I am seriously tempted to get a dowel rod and figure out a way to attach it to the bottom strap button.

And now interfere with the instrument cable.
 
Aquila strings:

Still really digging these!

I did an experiment today trying to melt the knot together with a lighter - it's a no-go. The string melted very fast and didn't melt 'together', it just melted through before combining with the adjacent wrap. Just fyi...
 
When I built foam airplanes, I used a special glue that "welded" two surfaces together. It chemically attached them. Maybe something like that is needed, something that will chemically fuse knot into a solid mass.
 
Does anyone find it odd that the high end California series solid bodies have the funky rechargeable battery and the lower end SUB series is powered with a watch battery?

I'll take a replaceable battery over a rechargeable battery any day. What are you supposed to do when you're gigging with something with a rechargeable battery and the battery runs out of juice?
 
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