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Kala UBass Megathread, Part 4

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. ...To my fingers they were way too sticky. Each stroke they stuck to my fingers instead of rolling off, and it resulted in very slightly later notes than I wanted and thicker edge on the attack...

Very vividly described, Tim, thanks for the feedback.

That's one of the reasons the pahoeoes went back on my s-u-b and the TGs moved to the fretless Ashbory.

My other question about whether Silver Rumblers vs TGs is how they age on a fretted bass.
TGs get fret impressions worn into them while the pahoeoes stay smooth.

So has Chad brainwashed every last one of you, or is there anybody playing Rumblers on a fretted bass? :help:
 
davewave said:
Very vividly described, Tim, thanks for the feedback.

That's one of the reasons the pahoeoes went back on my s-u-b and the TGs moved to the fretless Ashbory.

My other question about whether Silver Rumblers vs TGs is how they age on a fretted bass.
TGs get fret impressions worn into them while the pahoeoes stay smooth.

So has Chad brainwashed every last one of you, or is there anybody playing Rumblers on a fretted bass? :help:

Im still playing 'Rumblers on my fretted! They have been on a few weeks & are exhibiting less fret-impression than Thunderguts. Still, they feel similar so I would expect them to distort similarly over time. I never have a had a problem with this though as far as playing issues.
 
Im still playing 'Rumblers on my fretted! They have been on a few weeks & are exhibiting less fret-impression than Thunderguts. Still, they feel similar so I would expect them to distort similarly over time. I never have a had a problem with this though as far as playing issues.

Thanks, Justin. I'm hopeful, can't wait to get my hands on a set.

Wasn't a huge issue for me, either, but I find myself more sensitive to touch and tactile feedback in my fingertips playing these basses, they're so responsive.

I'm working on fretting with the minimal pressure required to voice a note, rather than the death grip as I've used since '69 when I wanted to be Jack Bruce. :scowl:
 
Here, have some kool-aid. ;)

Ha, I drank the whole pitcher back in 2000 when I got my Ashbory.

I jammed one entire afternoon exclusively on the Ash with some old buddies, they couldn't believe it, I'd never played anything but fretted full scale for 30 years up 'til then. :hmm:

I was reminded getting out the Ashbory that on a 18" scale, the vibrating length of a string @ the 24th fret is 4.5". :eek:
Not much depth of tone up that high even with TGs.
 
On another note, thanks to Scott at Grove Guitars, who built a custom vari-tone type box, I found what I feel the U-Bass needs to truly control the high end scratchiness. AFTER a proper buffer (the F-Deck is the best IMO), a .1 or .18 uF cap is the whip. I know it is a high value, but it is all relative. And putting the preamp before changes the environment to active.

So basically for ~$15, an electrically inclined person could get the necessary parts and build a passive tone box. A always suspected it, but this proves it. A tone knob will now be put in my custom U-Bass!
 
I put this together for a friend, but this might be useful for some of us too?

Re-installing previously trimmed U-Bass strings can be a pain! Especially the 'D' and 'G' strings as they have a tendency to slip. I don't like the Kala method, as it can twist the string & sometimes cause intonation & tonal problems. With this method & a little care, you can get a solid install without the twist!
youtube video:


'x' braced string:
20120910_131413.jpg


details:
1) Set Vise Grips so that the jaws touch each other when locked. It really needs to be that tight! Insert end of string & lock down. Hold as demonstrated in video.

2) Position tuning post slot parallel to string along fretboard.

3) Pull string almost to pitch. About a 1/2 step flat seems to be a good target that allows 2 full windings when brought up to pitch.

4) Wrap string over top of post, then down through slot. Maintain pressure so that pitch is 1/2 step flat!!! Hold "loose end" down against headstock lightly.

5) While maintaining tension, use other hand to turn tuning key until post has rotated 180'. Should be parallel to string again. This will put a wrap above the "loose end".

6) Now, maintaining pressure (it isn't locked yet), pull "loose end" up & through the post slot again. (see video)

7)Pull "loose end" back towards the bass body & turn tuning key so slot rotates another 180'. You will have to press down on "loose end" so it starts wrapping underneath the other windings, thus creating the 'x' pattern.

8) String should now be locked & require only about one more wrap to be up to pitch!
 
Thinking of experimenting with this stuff:

Kyser Dr. String Fellow String Cleaner and Lubricant:
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

The nice thing about this one is that it looks like that bottle opens.
I would put a little on my finger and then wipe it up and down the string, instead of spraying it all over the place.
Says it is ok for classical strings, which are sorta kinda the closest to TGs/SRs.

| Edit: I'm seeing other versions of this with a felt tip top that you just wipe across the strings.
| Sounded like a match. I ordered it, and I'll report on results here down the road.
| http://www.amazon.com/Kyser-Dr-String-Fellow-String-Cleaner/dp/B0002GZSMW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1347301685&sr=8-1&keywords=dr.+stringfellow+lubricant
 
As an Amazon Associate, TalkBass may receive commissions from qualifying purchases made via links on this site.
Thinking of experimenting with this stuff:

Kyser Dr. String Fellow String Cleaner and Lubricant:
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

The nice thing about this one is that it looks like that bottle opens.
I would put a little on my finger and then wipe it up and down the string, instead of spraying it all over the place.
Says it is ok for classical strings, which are sorta kinda the closest to TGs/SRs.

| Edit: I'm seeing other versions of this with a felt tip top that you just wipe across the strings.
| Sounded like a match. I ordered it, and I'll report on results here down the road.
| http://www.amazon.com/Kyser-Dr-String-Fellow-String-Cleaner/dp/B0002GZSMW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1347301685&sr=8-1&keywords=dr.+stringfellow+lubricant
Get a small 6oz. rectangular Lock & Lock food container a sponge and a 16oz. bottle of white mineral oil from your local drug store. Cut the sponge to fit the Lock & Lock, soak the sponge with the mineral oil and snap the lid on. Works perfectly.

Jeff
 
As an Amazon Associate, TalkBass may receive commissions from qualifying purchases made via links on this site.
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