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Kala UBass Megathread, Part 5
- Thread starter smperry
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I just got off the phone with Roxanne at Radial Engineering and a PZ-DI will be finding its way to my house so that I may demo it. Once it has arrived, I will make sure to post my thoughts. Also, I will get the Cincinnati U-Bass Players together, if possible, so they try it out. I told them I wanted it for one month, enough time to use it at church for 4 weekends.
Not UBass specific, but I am not used to moving around within this huge forum:
My amplified Irish harp came with a small Fish & Chips preamp/equalizer, so that is what I have.
Worked well for the UBasses when getting its power from a balanced transformer, only I wanted to cut down on cord clutter. So I bought some rechargeable 9V batteries and started using them.
Since then there have been to incidences of horribly strong high descant feeding, when connecting a UBass.
The only cause I have been able to deduce is about the battery being nearly drained.
Am I right about the causality?
(The transformer has been mounted again).
Klaus
My amplified Irish harp came with a small Fish & Chips preamp/equalizer, so that is what I have.
Worked well for the UBasses when getting its power from a balanced transformer, only I wanted to cut down on cord clutter. So I bought some rechargeable 9V batteries and started using them.
Since then there have been to incidences of horribly strong high descant feeding, when connecting a UBass.
The only cause I have been able to deduce is about the battery being nearly drained.
Am I right about the causality?
(The transformer has been mounted again).
Klaus
U-bass with TGs and uke duet of Light My Fire (by the Ukelites) you might enjoy:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QeLs5a8r6qg
Sorry, just realized I had the wrong link pasted originally.
If you saw the Shadows playing Apache, try again.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QeLs5a8r6qg
Sorry, just realized I had the wrong link pasted originally.
If you saw the Shadows playing Apache, try again.
Alright Ubassers. Need a little feedback and help. I figured I would go here first and if it didn't get answered start a new thread. I just got a fretted mahogany 3 days ago. First impressions are great build quality, awesome tone, a little weird but def fun. I have two problems. The first thing is the infamous fret buzzing/farting whatever you want to call it that I read about here when I was debating fretted vs fretless. Problem 2 is the E string has a lower output than the other strings...it is pretty noticeable. I think I can just trade mine in for a fretless and only have to pay for shipping (or just get a refund) but before I get that ball rolling, I would like to know 2 things.
1) Do the fretless versions have any of that buzz that the fretted versions have or is it more or less buzz free?
2) Is the output discrepancy between strings standard for these or do I have a clunker. ( I would say the E has an output of 80% of the other strings....I guess this isn't a deal breaker cause I think I could correct through an adjustment in technique)
OK, thanks for everyone's help. I am waiting with bated breath d-: --Phil
1) Do the fretless versions have any of that buzz that the fretted versions have or is it more or less buzz free?
2) Is the output discrepancy between strings standard for these or do I have a clunker. ( I would say the E has an output of 80% of the other strings....I guess this isn't a deal breaker cause I think I could correct through an adjustment in technique)
OK, thanks for everyone's help. I am waiting with bated breath d-: --Phil
Output should be pretty even across the strings. I'd change strings first, then swap out for a new pickup if that doesn't work. Kala should help you.
On basis of owning the acacia fretted and mahogany fretless UBasses and temporarily playing a SUB, which has higher and thicker frets, I would say:
I am able to make the fret-buzz, if my fretting finger comes too close to the low frets of the acacia UBass. Otherwise I have no buzzing.
Both of the UBasses are quieter on the E string, which needs some support from equalizing at the amplifier. I have put a quite modest Fish & Chips preamp on the line, which makes it easier to get the desired sound. My sound wishes appear being very normal, as I immediately identified with the opening sound of a recent video where three fine bassists present the UBass at a seminar.
The SUB is very different in so far that its general output is lower, but then the bass is relatively strong, so that I have change my amplifier settings thoroughly when coming from the UBasses.
If I support my playing by looking at the fret lines, my playing of the fretless hog is pretty well in tune. Also if I stay with well known patterns. If I play more freely the pitch strays somewhat, because I tend to overreach in either direction. Yet I think my planned for 5-string model shall be fretless, because compensating for uneven string pitch will be easier.
Klaus
I am able to make the fret-buzz, if my fretting finger comes too close to the low frets of the acacia UBass. Otherwise I have no buzzing.
Both of the UBasses are quieter on the E string, which needs some support from equalizing at the amplifier. I have put a quite modest Fish & Chips preamp on the line, which makes it easier to get the desired sound. My sound wishes appear being very normal, as I immediately identified with the opening sound of a recent video where three fine bassists present the UBass at a seminar.
The SUB is very different in so far that its general output is lower, but then the bass is relatively strong, so that I have change my amplifier settings thoroughly when coming from the UBasses.
If I support my playing by looking at the fret lines, my playing of the fretless hog is pretty well in tune. Also if I stay with well known patterns. If I play more freely the pitch strays somewhat, because I tend to overreach in either direction. Yet I think my planned for 5-string model shall be fretless, because compensating for uneven string pitch will be easier.
Klaus
Definitely keep in mind how much difference touch and technique make on these basses.
As Klaus points out, they're not as forgiving on finger position behind the fret.
Also, most of us find we use a much lighter touch on both left and right hand.
A guy really needs to put in some playing hours to get a feel for it.
Fretted vs fretless is a personal choice.
Some of us get better accuracy and speed with frets, even though the intonation may not be perfect.
I had one pickup that had a dead segment under the G string, but it was 0%, not 80%.
I'm betting there's nothing wrong with your bass.
Between playing technique and tweaking the EQ it should dial in where you like it.
I also believe everybody owes it to themselves to try out some of the other brands of strings.
Thanks fellas--I think I will play it for a few more days...keeping the tags on and being very careful....and then trade for a fretless if I am still not happy with it!.....Agreed davewave a lighter touch is def key with this thing....
I spent a little more time with a hog fretless today. I'd love a five string one with the same longer scale as the Cali solidbody. Who else would like one of these and is willing to pester Kala about it with me?
HeavyDuty said:
First of all, pester away!
Having had the Cali 5 string...
Te strings are not the same at that scale. According to Owen Holt, they are a lighter gauge (obviously), and the EADG strings are a different material. The B string is a different material. Not radically different, but less smooth and "softer" in tone. Definitely not as radical a departure from stock as the offerings from Aquila. They have a great sustain and low-mid bark that brings out the fundamentals of the lower notes very well. I think the formulation change for the B string was necessary to get clarity and sustain. And the others needed to match up a little better. Having said that, with my extensive experience I doubt those particular strings would have enough bump and attack to compliment an acoustic body. I purposely played a lot of low long notes in this clip for you all. I doubt an acoustic would perform the same.
Thanks, Tim - it doesn't hurt to ask them! I'm still planning to get a solid 5, but an acoustic could be fun to have.
The SUB I bought as a gift for an upcoming 40th birthday has been played, but not as intensely as my UBasses, just with the purpose of tuning it up to make the strings settle.
However I noticed that but for a few lucky instances the 12th fret G was flat in the 25 cent magnitude. I have had funny intonation on my first fretted UBass, but after advice from this forum I have rewound the strings several times, which cleared the problems.
So I have done the same with the SUB. Without the problem going away.
Tonight I measured the fretboard. The distance from the nut to the bridge side of the 12th fret is 263mm measured along the outside of the G string. Same result measuring along the outside of the E string.
The distance from the 12th fret to the saddle is 270mm measured along the outside of the G string. Along the outside of the E string the measurement is 269mm.
All four strings are flat in the same 25 cent magnitude at the 12th fret. The upper frets go increasingly flat.
Strings are the Pahoehoes it came with.
What to do? I am not happy about the situation.
Klaus
PS: I am very familiar with tuning moveable bridges, but this bridge doesnt look moveable to me.
However I noticed that but for a few lucky instances the 12th fret G was flat in the 25 cent magnitude. I have had funny intonation on my first fretted UBass, but after advice from this forum I have rewound the strings several times, which cleared the problems.
So I have done the same with the SUB. Without the problem going away.
Tonight I measured the fretboard. The distance from the nut to the bridge side of the 12th fret is 263mm measured along the outside of the G string. Same result measuring along the outside of the E string.
The distance from the 12th fret to the saddle is 270mm measured along the outside of the G string. Along the outside of the E string the measurement is 269mm.
All four strings are flat in the same 25 cent magnitude at the 12th fret. The upper frets go increasingly flat.
Strings are the Pahoehoes it came with.
What to do? I am not happy about the situation.
Klaus
PS: I am very familiar with tuning moveable bridges, but this bridge doesnt look moveable to me.
Klaus, I think you're out of luck. If rewinding and changing strings do not ultimately fix or improve the problem, we find other ways, like fretting the note and pulling the string sharp towards the nut.
On my first fretted Cali 4-string, the top octave would pull sharp, because I would pull the strings sharp. I had to overcome that by consciously pushing notes towards the bridge. That was not for me. Not to mention how close the frets were that high. High D (19th fret) was my top comfortable note. So, that is where the fretless fingerboard on my in-progress custom will stop. And I don't worry about intonation. On my fretlesses it's all in my hands.
Klaus, maybe contact Kala. It sounds like your intonation problem is pretty uniform from string to string. Maybe they have a pickup that has a closer termination point to the neck.
On my first fretted Cali 4-string, the top octave would pull sharp, because I would pull the strings sharp. I had to overcome that by consciously pushing notes towards the bridge. That was not for me. Not to mention how close the frets were that high. High D (19th fret) was my top comfortable note. So, that is where the fretless fingerboard on my in-progress custom will stop. And I don't worry about intonation. On my fretlesses it's all in my hands.
Klaus, maybe contact Kala. It sounds like your intonation problem is pretty uniform from string to string. Maybe they have a pickup that has a closer termination point to the neck.
The Kala typical way to mount the bridge decreases normally the distance between frets and bridge causing sharp intonation in my case. If restringing was not such a pita, I would have opened my toolbox. There is some wear or 'play' in the drilling of the wooden part of the bridge and pressing it back in a vertical position is nearly impossible or will last just until next tuning.
Your case looks just like unprecise workmanship.
Fortunatly I'm a dump low register BASS player and can survive with this issue.
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