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Kala UBass Megathread, Part 5
- Thread starter smperry
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The posts carrying the bridge/saddle of my SUB are penpendicular to the top plane of the body.
Is it part of KALAs calculated development of the instrument that the posts will be pulled into a tilt leaning towards the fingerboard and nut?
Tim assumed I had tried to change the strings. I hadnt but I now have followed his implied suggestion, at least partially.
The last delivery (hog & SUB) also brought a set of Thunderguts (now on the fretless hog) and a set of medium tension Pahoehoes.
When I unpacked that latter set I became most surprised, as the thinnest string was considerably thicker than the G string mounted on the SUB at delivery. Actually it was as thick as the original D string. And when I mounted it, it didnt slide anything near freely through its slot in the nut.
It was possible to tune this thicker string up to the pitch of G, but only after several increasing pre-pulls to avoid layered windings on the stem of the tuner. The relative flatness of 20+cent at the 12th fret still was there. So I concluded that the problem is not with the strings but with the placement of the bridge.
Even with that placement kept there might be some chances to correct the problem, if Kala sent me a replacement bridge where the top ridge of the saddle was near the edge of the bridge on the fingerboard fingerboard/nut side. Now that top ridge is close to the edge closest to the end pin. The difference is in the magnitude of maybe 5mm, which is a significant amount of string length when playing the upper frets.
As always: my tech English is limited, so I only can hope my message comes through reasonably coherent.
Klaus
Is it part of KALAs calculated development of the instrument that the posts will be pulled into a tilt leaning towards the fingerboard and nut?
Tim assumed I had tried to change the strings. I hadnt but I now have followed his implied suggestion, at least partially.
The last delivery (hog & SUB) also brought a set of Thunderguts (now on the fretless hog) and a set of medium tension Pahoehoes.
When I unpacked that latter set I became most surprised, as the thinnest string was considerably thicker than the G string mounted on the SUB at delivery. Actually it was as thick as the original D string. And when I mounted it, it didnt slide anything near freely through its slot in the nut.
It was possible to tune this thicker string up to the pitch of G, but only after several increasing pre-pulls to avoid layered windings on the stem of the tuner. The relative flatness of 20+cent at the 12th fret still was there. So I concluded that the problem is not with the strings but with the placement of the bridge.
Even with that placement kept there might be some chances to correct the problem, if Kala sent me a replacement bridge where the top ridge of the saddle was near the edge of the bridge on the fingerboard fingerboard/nut side. Now that top ridge is close to the edge closest to the end pin. The difference is in the magnitude of maybe 5mm, which is a significant amount of string length when playing the upper frets.
As always: my tech English is limited, so I only can hope my message comes through reasonably coherent.
Klaus
Klaus,
You are very coherent to English speakers. At least they tell me that
Is the distance from the nut to the 12th fret the same as the distance from the 12th to the bridge saddle? Even if the latter is longer they may have designed it that way to make up for tension changes. Another possibility is raise the action a little. It may pull the higher notes up to pitch when fretting those notes.
Re ThunderGuts, they are thicker and stickier. Take care when tuning because they do tend to stick in the nut. They and the Silver Rumblers never did sit all the way down in the nut slots in my hog. They were too sticky, bright, and sustainy for me. Some also sounded like I had a chorus on. If they made a string as stable as the Sivler Rumblers and sounded as warm and played as easily as the stock strings that would be perfect.
You are very coherent to English speakers. At least they tell me that
Is the distance from the nut to the 12th fret the same as the distance from the 12th to the bridge saddle? Even if the latter is longer they may have designed it that way to make up for tension changes. Another possibility is raise the action a little. It may pull the higher notes up to pitch when fretting those notes.
Re ThunderGuts, they are thicker and stickier. Take care when tuning because they do tend to stick in the nut. They and the Silver Rumblers never did sit all the way down in the nut slots in my hog. They were too sticky, bright, and sustainy for me. Some also sounded like I had a chorus on. If they made a string as stable as the Sivler Rumblers and sounded as warm and played as easily as the stock strings that would be perfect.
Thanks!
I will try the higher action, which causes no problems with the Pahoehoes, whereas I don't like high action with stiff strings.
Klaus
I will try the higher action, which causes no problems with the Pahoehoes, whereas I don't like high action with stiff strings.
Klaus
Klaus, I just measured my S-U-B. Nut to 12th is about 263, like yours.
The G from the middle of the 12th fret to the middle of the saddle is 264 mm. D A E: 265, 266, 268.
To adjust the length significantly, it seems the only option would be to modify or replace the wooden bridge.
****************
Mine also has slack in the bridge that causes a slight tilt, not as extreme as bluecab's photo.
As Tim suggests, by experimenting with bridge height I found a spot that works best.
****************
Playing ukuleles with fixed bridges has made me more casual about intonation.
My goal is to set up an instrument the best it's capable of, but by design it can never be perfect.
I choose to relax and enjoy playing.
Hey guys, I been looking at a new amp. Last real new amp was a SWR baby baby blue combo about 7 years ago. This one will be need to last about as long. Have been looking at light weight amp and cab options. Getting a single 12 inch cab from barefaced and thinking of getting an EA Doubler. I like transparent sounding di's (love the fishman platinum bass and the lr baggs paracoustic). Plus the doubler has 2 channels, one for u-bass and one for the electric and the doubler has a low pass filter built in as well. Anyone playing , or played, one with their u-bass? I'm definitely driving down to Sydney to try out the EA before buying, the barefaced cab willl take 6-8 weeks to arrive anyway. (Also looking at the streamliner and the mbfusion).
If Graph Tech piezo saddles were used, do you think this would work? It would solve the intonation problems, for sure. You would probably have to install the Ghost electronics as well.
View attachment Fender Bass Bridge Black.jpg
Jeff
View attachment Fender Bass Bridge Black.jpg
Jeff
I have been waiting for a manufacturer to build a design with an adjustable bridge. Somebody needs to do that.
Yeah, but we already have a solidbody design being sold.
A solidbody or a semi hollow with a block at the tail of the bass would both take an adjustable piezo bridge - and probably sound great.
It seems to me that the reasoning for the current bridge design is based more on convenience in manufacturing than practicality. They're just using the same saddle assembly and pickup that they use for the acoustic U-Bass. I'm suggesting the Fender type design because piezo saddles for it are readily available. I'm not sure about all of the technical details, but it's probably worth exploring.
Jeff
Jeff
You know who I wish made a design for this class of bass?
Ovation.
They already do ukes. I could imagine a shallow body roundback Ovation style mini bass that would look and sound terrific.
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Ovation.
They already do ukes. I could imagine a shallow body roundback Ovation style mini bass that would look and sound terrific.
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Well, I do own this uke, and is almost impossible to hold confortably, even with an strap. Due to the roundback, it allways tries to roll upwards. It is collecting dust due to this. But my girlfriend owns this one and its nice to hold and play. And big:
http://www.reidys.com/images/products.large/ae140.jpg
Hello UBass folks !
I would like to travel to the west (i'm living in the east canada, aka mtl) and was looking for a travel bass. I remembered hearing about the UBass and it looks great! But some questions remain...
Is it a semi-pro bass, like, could I do gigs in bars with it ? Cauz i would like to do some. And does it have lot of low end ? Can I plug it ? Does the price is fair for this ? My first thought with this bass (i don't know it, so i judge...) is that it's a cool little bass but not pro, mostly a toy...
Can you help me make my choise ?
I would like to travel to the west (i'm living in the east canada, aka mtl) and was looking for a travel bass. I remembered hearing about the UBass and it looks great! But some questions remain...
Is it a semi-pro bass, like, could I do gigs in bars with it ? Cauz i would like to do some. And does it have lot of low end ? Can I plug it ? Does the price is fair for this ? My first thought with this bass (i don't know it, so i judge...) is that it's a cool little bass but not pro, mostly a toy...
Can you help me make my choise ?
Welcome.
Search online for UBass videos, and you will find the top pros of bass playing a UBass.
Also check this out. You might recognize a few names.
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
- Is it a semi-pro bass? - Yes.
- And does it have lot of low end? - Yes.
- Can I plug it? - Yes
- Does the price is fair for this? - I think everyone is going to answer that one differently.
- ... Is that it's a cool little bass but not pro, mostly a toy. - Definitely not a toy.
If you are seriously interested in this bass, you will learn if it is right for you by reading this thread.
Lots of posts, and lots of information.
Pros:
- Tons of low end.
- Small footprint and absolutely tons of fun to play.
Cons:
- Uses synthetic strings - stock strings take a very long time to be stable, are a pain to restring.
- Other synthetic alternatives by Aquila are great, but some have complained about stickiness. [It can be addressed with talc, but not everyone likes that. Note that not everyone experiences the stickiness. I think it is a regional thing. Also, the Aquila strings really
are an interesting alternative - with tuning stability that comes in a couple of days, instead of many weeks with the stocks.]
- Requires you to invest some time to get used to very short scale - 21 inches - and the required touch.
If you read this thread, you'll find that Most of us - Love the UBass very much.
Now, since you are in Canada, if only a steel string small bass will do, your options are:
- UBass with Pyramid strings.
- Beaver Creek Travel Bass - exclusive to Canada. [low cost]
- Michael Kelly Sojourn Travel Bass.
Fedora Menorah has reformed for this year's Chanukah production at the Synagogue. We play swing style versions of popular Chanukah tunes. I am on bass this year, instead of drum set. I am using the U-Bass because of the whole acoustic bass mojo. Walking swing/jazz lines endlessly is a lot of fun! 
It is certainly a tad more exciting than the CCM-like bass playing I am often playing.
This is my rig for the production:
U-Bass -> HPF-Pre S3 -> Joyo EQ -> Guyatone ST2 -> DI -> FOH
I am using the Series 3 on my bass board, instead of the Series 2 I had strapped to the U-Bass strap. My board is a clean setup and U-Bass works just fine through the Series 3. The Series 2 may have just become expendable.
U-Bass for the acoustic win!
It is certainly a tad more exciting than the CCM-like bass playing I am often playing.This is my rig for the production:
U-Bass -> HPF-Pre S3 -> Joyo EQ -> Guyatone ST2 -> DI -> FOH
I am using the Series 3 on my bass board, instead of the Series 2 I had strapped to the U-Bass strap. My board is a clean setup and U-Bass works just fine through the Series 3. The Series 2 may have just become expendable.
U-Bass for the acoustic win!
Fedora Menorah has reformed for this year's Chanukah production at the Synagogue. We play swing style versions of popular Chanukah tunes. I am on bass this year, instead of drum set. I am using the U-Bass because of the whole acoustic bass mojo. Walking swing/jazz lines endlessly is a lot of fun!
This is my rig for the production:
U-Bass -> HPF-Pre S3 -> Joyo EQ -> Guyatone ST2 -> DI -> FOH
I am using the Series 3 on my bass board, instead of the Series 2 I had strapped to the U-Bass strap. My board is a clean setup and U-Bass works just fine through the Series 3. The Series 2 may have just become expendable.
U-Bass for the acoustic win!
That sounds like so much fun. Great for you. I wish I had an experience like that during the holidays.
I must have missed it along the way, or forgotten - but I didn't retain that you were a drummer, too. So am I.
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