Sydney, but the best was 470-530 and 400 is literally the limit I can spend with being unemployed and such. Either way, I have someone who can pick it up for me so all is fine in that respect. I'm just wondering about the volume of the thing.
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Kala UBass Megathread, Part 6
- Thread starter smperry
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Sydney, but the best was 470-530 and 400 is literally the limit I can spend with being unemployed and such. Either way, I have someone who can pick it up for me so all is fine in that respect. I'm just wondering about the volume of the thing.
Two things.
First, I have the standard spruce top, I really wish I had the Hutch model for more access up the neck as well as the cool looks.
Second, all u-bass models are completely worthless when played acoustically. That's why they have pickups in them.
They are fine for solo noodling in a quiet setting, but the physics of the small body and the super-light touch required on the strings mean that you will always need an amp to play with others.
This has been posted before, so this is just a reminder of the acoustic tone and projection using Pahoehoe strings on an acoustic guitar. I am in the process of doing the same thing on a Johnson guitar that is. I purchased a cutaway with a Fishman 4 classic preamp and am awaiting the strings from Road Toad.
First time someone has used me as a point of reference. Cheers bluebird made my day 
J-Mo63 I'm in Newcastle and don't get to Sydney much but feel free to Pm me any questions if you think I can help. You can occasionally find some second stock or second hand gear sub 400 you just need to be patient. Keep an eye on the classies here too.
J-Mo63 I'm in Newcastle and don't get to Sydney much but feel free to Pm me any questions if you think I can help. You can occasionally find some second stock or second hand gear sub 400 you just need to be patient. Keep an eye on the classies here too.
I know people have defretted the acoustic models, but has anyone defretted one of the S.U.B.'s? I'm not sure the extra cost justifies getting a fretless California.
Just got one shipped to work for $450. New, but 2012 stock without EQ.
Some here say the models without tuner/EQ are 'better'?
Hey J-Mo63 did you see this? $350 http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f126/fs-kala-ubass-spruce-top-350-00-obo-983645/
I put the original pahoehoe strings back on my fretless a couple days ago, then on Sunday at Church I used it on 1 song before switching over to my Thunderbird. My wife told me the u-bass cut through the mix no problem, and it sounded fantastic. She said she didn't even hear the Tbird, but that was probably an issue with the sound man. After worship half a dozen guys came up and complemented my sound! In all the years of playing in Worship bands I have never had anyone say anything about my sound! One guy who is a musician was looking all over for the bass player, but finally realized the guy with the uke was playing bass! Starting to make me think about selling ths big bird and getting a 5 string fretless SUB! U-bass rules for pretty much any type of music!
Norway has a beautiful and very singable national anthem. The Norwegians celebrate their almost 200 years old constitution on the 17th of May.
Took the occasion and adapted the original piano setting of this tune for 2 UBasses. Traditional notation plus tablature for both parts with no double stops.
Downloadable for free via the address in my signature.
Klaus
Took the occasion and adapted the original piano setting of this tune for 2 UBasses. Traditional notation plus tablature for both parts with no double stops.
Downloadable for free via the address in my signature.
Klaus
I have decided to buy a Kala Ubass. And now I am very confused.
I understand the newer models have the "shadow" electronics with tuner and EQ, but on all the advertised ones I see (on amazon and ebay) there is no mention of this.
What is the difference in model names? dates for the new model? Do they still make the "old" model or just that the retail pipeline is still full of them.
Their website is no help either...
Can anyone recommend a good discount dealer? (like Wildwood for Rickenbackers)
I understand the newer models have the "shadow" electronics with tuner and EQ, but on all the advertised ones I see (on amazon and ebay) there is no mention of this.
What is the difference in model names? dates for the new model? Do they still make the "old" model or just that the retail pipeline is still full of them.
Their website is no help either...
Can anyone recommend a good discount dealer? (like Wildwood for Rickenbackers)
Suatie, another forum member ,1stnamebassist, recommended to me a place in Cape Coral FL called MODTEC phone no two three nine four five eight 2451. Nest time I'm in Ft Myers I will check them out myself. Best of Luck
I went to mod tech and tried several different models that they had a few months back, but at the time they did not have any with the built in preamp. That may have changed. If you do go there bring a small amp so you can see how they sound. They are ebay sellers and are really just a warehouse, so anything you try is fresh out of the box and way out of tune also. I bought a fretless solid mahogany from them and I am extremely happy with the purchase. Good luck!
So I've got a 5 string fretted ubass, which back in february had a problem where the intonation on the A string got off the higher up the neck I went. Sweetwater checked it out and ended up replacing the strings which fixed it (or so it seemed). Fast forward to last month I've got the same problem again, this time on the A & G. Open it is spot on, but by the time you get to the 12th it is very flat.
I've been back and forth with Kala and they keep trying to say it is my finger positioning - but how can finger position aftect intonation on a fretted instrument? I tried fretting various distances from the fret and it all came out the same (as expected) Anybody else seeing this intonation issue? Am I just lucky?
Probably going to see about a refund on this. Especially for the price I paid for it.
I've been back and forth with Kala and they keep trying to say it is my finger positioning - but how can finger position aftect intonation on a fretted instrument? I tried fretting various distances from the fret and it all came out the same (as expected) Anybody else seeing this intonation issue? Am I just lucky?
Probably going to see about a refund on this. Especially for the price I paid for it.
I have had similar Pahoehoe experiences on my fretted acoustic UBass.
As I see it, the problem is with an uneven weight distribution over the length of the strings. The Pahoehoe's are stretched more by being pressed over the frets than by being plucked by the right hand finger or fingers. Therefor the bridge end of the string goes relatively heavier than the nut end. Hence the pitch drops the further up the neck you fret the string.
My approach has being a change to Thunderguts, which are more stable, albeit not perfect.
And then it is not always the best results are obtained by tuning the open strings to A=440Hz or whatever reference pitch you use.
My ears better like the results from tuning the strings at the 12th fret (not the harmonics, but the fretted notes). And then avoiding the use of open strings.
Currently my A string suffers from the same problem as yours. There I split the discrepancy between the pitches at the 1st fret and at the 12th fret, so that the 12th fret tuning is a bit closer to true than the pitch of the 1st fret. We tend to hear pitches more precisely the closer we come to the mid-range of the piano.
Don't know whether this goes for the Pahoehoe's, but with the Thunderguts the pitch goes a bit up, if I fret close behind the frets. But that is tricky because the strings will buzz, if fretted too closely to the frets.
Klaus
As I see it, the problem is with an uneven weight distribution over the length of the strings. The Pahoehoe's are stretched more by being pressed over the frets than by being plucked by the right hand finger or fingers. Therefor the bridge end of the string goes relatively heavier than the nut end. Hence the pitch drops the further up the neck you fret the string.
My approach has being a change to Thunderguts, which are more stable, albeit not perfect.
And then it is not always the best results are obtained by tuning the open strings to A=440Hz or whatever reference pitch you use.
My ears better like the results from tuning the strings at the 12th fret (not the harmonics, but the fretted notes). And then avoiding the use of open strings.
Currently my A string suffers from the same problem as yours. There I split the discrepancy between the pitches at the 1st fret and at the 12th fret, so that the 12th fret tuning is a bit closer to true than the pitch of the 1st fret. We tend to hear pitches more precisely the closer we come to the mid-range of the piano.
Don't know whether this goes for the Pahoehoe's, but with the Thunderguts the pitch goes a bit up, if I fret close behind the frets. But that is tricky because the strings will buzz, if fretted too closely to the frets.
Klaus
http://www.talkbass.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=337683&d=1368658790
Here is my Ubass a fretless mahogany along with its 2 other family members An Epi Tbird Classic 4 and a Danelectro Longhorn
Here is my Ubass a fretless mahogany along with its 2 other family members An Epi Tbird Classic 4 and a Danelectro Longhorn
I was at work tonight thinking how much I would like to get a 5 string sub with the 23" scale. Then I thought why don't I build one? I have a cheap strat knockoff that I could gut, fill in all the holes and pup spaces with some resin or wood filler, refinish, route a space in the back for a preamp, get a kala piezo bridge or something similar. Fill in the holes for the tuners and drill for new tuners. Build a 5 string nut, pull the frets and fill slots. I don't know much about fingerboards, but i'm wondering about staining it and making it an unlined fretboard, and just mark the frets on the side. Now the big problem is scale length. Its a standard strat size guitar, so do they make paehaohao strings that are long enough, or will I have to move the bridge forward a bit to make the strings fit? This is just an idea that popped into my head at work so i'm looking for some input. Am I out of my mind, or does it actually sound reasonable and feasible? I've never built a guitar, but I thought it might be a bit of a fun project! Help!!!
Mate, I just did this with a classical guitar. I bought a 5 string set from road toad designated for 22 to 23 inch scale. The classical was just a bit short of 26 inches. The strings stretched fine - 6-8 inches left over after stretching for a few weeks. The build thread is here, Invalid Link Removed its started out as a query to see if it was possible. I'm not a builder type either and found it quite easy. I learnt a lot and am now looking for a clean acoustic to build a final version - have since ordered a new pickup too it should be here in a week or so.
u-tube clip here from before i put the current pickup in it comparing acoustic volume to amplified tone.
u-tube clip here from before i put the current pickup in it comparing acoustic volume to amplified tone.
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