On the Cali model, it was easy to access through the electronics cavity. A watch-type battery held in by a little clip.
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
Kala UBass Megathread, Part 6
- Thread starter smperry
- Start date
- Status
On the Cali model, it was easy to access through the electronics cavity. A watch-type battery held in by a little clip.
Hi
The problem is that the tech broke the clip because it would not open wide enough to get the batteries out.They had to order a new circuit board that has the battery holder permanently attached.Per the dealer ,because of this the circuit board must be taken out which the battery holder is mounted on.There is not enough space in the guitar cavity to slide the battery out of the holder.I find it hard believe there is not an easier way.Some one must have changed a battery on a Kala solid body SUB U Bass without going down this path? I hope !
Thanks
Davesound
The problem is that the tech broke the clip because it would not open wide enough to get the batteries out.They had to order a new circuit board that has the battery holder permanently attached.Per the dealer ,because of this the circuit board must be taken out which the battery holder is mounted on.There is not enough space in the guitar cavity to slide the battery out of the holder.I find it hard believe there is not an easier way.Some one must have changed a battery on a Kala solid body SUB U Bass without going down this path? I hope !
Thanks
Davesound
Untitled by ~dave~~wave~, on FlickR
I have.
Not that difficult. The battery is no thicker than a coin.
I flexed the clip up slightly with the nail of my left index finger while using a small screwdriver in my right hand to pop the battery up.
Sorry you and your tech had some bad luck.
He's trying to convince you that the circuit board needs to come out to access the open part of the round plastic battery holder, but that won't gain you any advantage.
The clip still would need to flex the thickness of the battery before it would come out.
It's designed to work without removing the circuit board.
Your tech is embarrassed, but if he was careful and followed the procedure, then tell each other the clip must have been defective and move on.
Good luck, one old guy named Dave to another.
PS- You learned your lesson about forgetting to unplug the cable the same way I did.
Now I always keep a spare set of batteries in my case.
So fretted or fretless? Is the verdict in on if the fretted holds a tune well enough up and down the neck, or is fretless still the way to go if you have any plans on actually gigging it?
I'm not trying to persuade anybody here of anything.
Let the jury decide.
If you're interested in my experience and opinion, I'm happy playing fretted, because to me the intonation accuracy is acceptable. I could never achieve it consistently on a fretless.
For me, trying every string available and adjusting my playing technique, then relaxing about the end result has been all part of the fun of owning one.
PS- I just saw an Ohana uke bass hanging in a shop with white Thunderguts on it, but have not made it back yet to try it out.
Hi
Davewave.Thanks
I see what your saying.Thanks for the pictures.My hands aren't that good ,but with some help I should be OK.How do you decide when the batteries need changing?
Thank You
This bass has made it possible for me to keep playing awhile longer.
Thanks
davesound
Davewave.Thanks
I see what your saying.Thanks for the pictures.My hands aren't that good ,but with some help I should be OK.How do you decide when the batteries need changing?
Thank You
This bass has made it possible for me to keep playing awhile longer.
Thanks
davesound
Hi
I called Kala.Per them the battery is draining as long as the guitar has a plug in it.So I had mine sitting for a couple weeks plugged in ,not using it all the time,just draining the battery.That should be stated in the Manuel somewhere
Also I got my Ubass thinking it would fit into any song that an upright would play.Last night I did some songs With m band,that are usually done by an electric.The Ubass sounded great.I think I can use it on all the music we df course we don't do Hard Rock,or anything close to that.We do standards ,40 to 70 music.Don't know about anything other then that.
Thanks
Davesound
To be fair, all active basses are like that. I guess it's somewhat taken as common knowledge in the bass world. But you're right; the manual probably should have said something.
I was planning on selling my ubass but a little acoustic gig opportunity came up so I decided to keep it. I was gonna restring with a new set of pahoehoe's but found a set of pyramids I forgot I had and put them on.
Great strings. It's just so nice having stable ubass strings. The intonation is spot on now, where before it was close, but always off at the 12th fret. Fretless intonation is waaaay harder now. The pahoehoe's were a bit more forgiving, but eith these my fretting hand has to be perfect. The action is higher than I'd want, but the tension is low enough so that it's not really a problem. I might try taking whatever shims might be under the saddles.
The sound of the pahoehoe's is what makes the ubass something special, but it sounds pretty damn good with the pyamids. We'll see if the mythical red thunders ever come out. If not, im happy to keep these on forever. I wonder if the silver plating will tarnish over time.
Great strings. It's just so nice having stable ubass strings. The intonation is spot on now, where before it was close, but always off at the 12th fret. Fretless intonation is waaaay harder now. The pahoehoe's were a bit more forgiving, but eith these my fretting hand has to be perfect. The action is higher than I'd want, but the tension is low enough so that it's not really a problem. I might try taking whatever shims might be under the saddles.
The sound of the pahoehoe's is what makes the ubass something special, but it sounds pretty damn good with the pyamids. We'll see if the mythical red thunders ever come out. If not, im happy to keep these on forever. I wonder if the silver plating will tarnish over time.
Attachments
Got a sweet U bass a few weeks ago. Have read up on the megathread about the snapping of tuning pegs due to overwound strings, especially A and D. Long story short the stock A was getting close to overwound- I cut is shorter and then it was too damn short.
Fortunately I had purchased some Thunderguts to try out anyway. I went to string them up and found that the metal ferrule on the E string had snapped in half during crimping or shipping. End result- I have a stock black E string and the rest white Thunderguts... Any ideas on what I could crimp on the bottom to keep the E in place.
I have contacted Mimmo and Aquila and not heard back...
Kevmon
Fortunately I had purchased some Thunderguts to try out anyway. I went to string them up and found that the metal ferrule on the E string had snapped in half during crimping or shipping. End result- I have a stock black E string and the rest white Thunderguts... Any ideas on what I could crimp on the bottom to keep the E in place.
I have contacted Mimmo and Aquila and not heard back...
Kevmon
If the string is long enough take the ferrel off and push the string into the body and tie a knot in the end that is in the body cavity. Probably best to use a figure 8 knot so it won't slip, that should work. I believe Mimmo is no longer putting ferrels on the strings.
I have written on how to use cable binders to stabilize knots. The binders even can help making strings stay in the tuner slots after they have been trimmed to short to stay in the slots on their own.
Klaus
Klaus
I will give the knot a roll. Klaus, not really sure what you mean by cable binders- can you shoot me a link to show me what you are talking about? Thanks for the help.
This board has very efficient search facilities when adequate parameters are entered:
[This invalid link has been removed]
[This invalid link has been removed]
I am GASing for a Kala U-bass after testing the Rumbler in a shop. However, I think the strings could have a bit more tension and I'd prefer them a bit less "stickyrubbery".
Are there alternative strings with a bit more tension, less stretch and a bit firmer feel without turning to metal strings?
Are there alternative strings with a bit more tension, less stretch and a bit firmer feel without turning to metal strings?
Are you sure it was a rumbler? Were the strings grey rather than black? If so, then those are the less sticky and rubbery option. There are aquila thunderguts that have slightly higher tension than the silver rumblers you played, but they're even more sticky. Some people don't find either to be sticky at all. It depends on your fingertip skin chemistry. I can't play them.
The stock black strings that come on standard models feel and sound fantastic. They're not at all sticky but they're super low tension, a huge pain in the butt to install, and take forever to break in. Right now I have the metal strings on my fretless. The tone isn't the fat, bottomy boomy awesomeness it was with the stock strings, but the tension and stability is worth it and they sound pretty good.
The stock black strings that come on standard models feel and sound fantastic. They're not at all sticky but they're super low tension, a huge pain in the butt to install, and take forever to break in. Right now I have the metal strings on my fretless. The tone isn't the fat, bottomy boomy awesomeness it was with the stock strings, but the tension and stability is worth it and they sound pretty good.
Yes, it was the rumbler with grey strings. I loved the sound, but it was a pain to tune, and even if I probably could get used to playing them, I would like a less sticky option.
- Status
