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Kala UBass Megathread, Part 6

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Well, got my U-Bass back from my luthier. He adjusted the bridge up a little, dressed the offending frets and tweaked the truss rod a bit. Plays perfect now. Said if there are more problems will have to remove the neck and reset it. Hoping its gonna stay god for a while.
 
Well, got my U-Bass back from my luthier. He adjusted the bridge up a little, dressed the offending frets and tweaked the truss rod a bit. Plays perfect now. Said if there are more problems will have to remove the neck and reset it. Hoping its gonna stay god for a while.

Good news!!
 
+1

I've read all the mega threads too and can tell you that my acoustic ubass has had two tuner failures without any over wrapping ever.

"E" tuner failed & Ryan / Kala promptly replaced at no charge.

"A" tuner failed (ironically while I was restringing because my wraps were getting 'close' to over wrapping).

I'm convinced the worm gears are simply poorly cut/toleranced/designed.

Emailed Ryan / Kala requesting a replacement for the failed tuner.

I'm just hoping there was a bad manufacturing run of tuners...

Maybe you guys are well aware of this, but there is a "quirk" of the tuners which most of us don't consider a "defect" where they will seize up.
You merely need to loosen the philips screw and get on with your playing, rather than take your bass out of action and raise hell with Kala.

Somebody on here explained the mechanics of the worm gear and why this happens.
They certainly won't win any awards for excellence, but they're generally serviceable if you understand how they work.

Maybe your tuners are defective, but wanted to pass this along in case it applies to anybody who has't read all 5,000 posts or might have missed it.
 
I have major hand problems and just sold off all of my bass gear....could this be the answer??

Certainly could be, light touch and short scale.

Are you anyplace you can get your hands on one?
Or see if there's a ukulele group in your area, a lot of them are showing up there. We have three U-bass owners in our little club.
 
I had replaced my original strings with Thunderguts because of the stickiness, and was having the same problem after a short time, I tried powder which worked for a short time but not long and was very messy.
A guitar friend lent me some "Finger Ease".
Let me tell you it worked great and lasts a long time, I can play several days without needed to respray, and is not messy. Hands and fingers slide nicely.
 
I've been using talc that comes in little cloth bags for pool players. Works ok on my silver rumblers. I had thought about trying finger ease but was hesitant because I read somewhere someone had put a string lube, I don't recall which one, on their u-bass strings, and they made some terrible squeaking noises that he could not eliminate no matter how much he tried to clean it off. He ended up throwing the strings out! Somebody else had said recently that mineral oil works well too. Keep us posted on how the finger ease works long term or if you encounter any problems.
 
Maybe you guys are well aware of this, but there is a "quirk" of the tuners which most of us don't consider a "defect" where they will seize up.
You merely need to loosen the philips screw and get on with your playing, rather than take your bass out of action and raise hell with Kala.

Somebody on here explained the mechanics of the worm gear and why this happens.
They certainly won't win any awards for excellence, but they're generally serviceable if you understand how they work.

Maybe your tuners are defective, but wanted to pass this along in case it applies to anybody who has't read all 5,000 posts or might have missed it.

davewave: Thanks for the insight. I've had open gear tuners on guitars and basses forever and not experienced this.

I did back off the rear screw a bit and got the gear moving freely. Seems to be holding pitch too...

Maybe one has to add a bit of 'proactive slop' to account for the mis-matched gears.

Thanks again.
 
I just finished building this and thought I'd show it off. Twenty-one inch scale, Selmer shaped body, Pahoehoe strings, Shadow pick-up, Hip-Shot tuners, Sitca Spruce top, curly maple back, sides, and neck.

It's just a guess of course, but the larger body seems to make it two or three times as loud as a U-bass - enough acoustic volume to keep up with other acoustic string players.

Like my U-bass, I can get something very close to an upright sound when plugged into my GK.

http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y520/TomHume440/Photoon2013-04-04at1449_zps719b2b32.jpg
 
Hi Little George,

Thanks, and no, the strings are just the standard 20" to 21" Pahoehoes. However, I just learned about the "Shortbass" and I'm intreagued with the possibilities of a scale length of around 23 1/2 inches. So are these "aquila reds" you mentioned the strings that are used on the Shortbass, and if so, where do you get them?

Tom
 
Hi Little George,

Thanks, and no, the strings are just the standard 20" to 21" Pahoehoes. However, I just learned about the "Shortbass" and I'm intreagued with the possibilities of a scale length of around 23 1/2 inches. So are these "aquila reds" you mentioned the strings that are used on the Shortbass, and if so, where do you get them?

Tom

On Apr.02 I sent an email to a company in Italy that will be distributing the Short Bass in Europe. They said the Thunder Red strings will be available "next month" ie. May. I'm curious about them myself.

That bass you built looks fantastic. I also notice that you used fairly large frets and a zero-fret. I like zero-fret instruments and I don't know why more builders don't use them.

Since you're obviously an experienced builder I also wanted to ask what you think of the idea of adding a soundboard-type piezo to a U-Bass via a stereo jack. It's something I've been considering.

Jeff
 
Hi Jeff,

I’m not an experienced guitar builder, I spent my career as a piano tuner and rebuilder, and I guess there is some crossover.

The fret wire I used is medium/medium from Stewart Macdonald and it is a little bigger than the fret-wire on my U-Bass. Happily, I found that the larger wire is easier to play – there seems to be more leeway as to where you can put your finger.

I used a zero fret because I wanted the instrument to look as much like a Selmer/Maccaferri as possible. I too think zero frets are a good idea – they’re usually one or two sizes bigger than the rest of the frets, and you never have to worry about string height at the nut, or open notes sounding significantly different than fretted ones.

As far as the soundboard piezos go, I’d be interested to know how it works out for you. My limited experience, however, is consistent with what I’ve read about such things; that bridge piezos get most of their energy from the string, and soundboard piezos from the acoustical properties of the instrument. Since low notes usually need a big box to “sing”, and since the U-Bass is so tiny, my guess would be that a soundboard piezo wouldn’t sound all that good.

Thanks for the information on the Thunder Red strings. I’m thinking about my next project and I’d like a little longer scale length, like say 23 ½ inches, and finding the right strings will be job number one.

There are a lot of things I like about the polyurethane Pahoehoes, but I’ve been experimenting with a 22” to 24” set, and even though the longer scale length improves the weakness of the low E and A strings, I’m not convinced that the G string will hang together at that length.

I just found this: Invalid Link Removed

Coming soon! (April 2013)

7) Aquila Shortbass-one Sets
'Basic' model set (12 joint frets; 60 cms/23.62 inch scale):
-RED SERIES SET GDAE; code 92U; 42 EUROS (all the strings are RED SERIES type)

'14' model set (14 joint frets; 67 cms/26.37 inch scale):
-RED SERIES SET GDAE; code 93U; 45 EUROS (all the strings are RED SERIES type)

Tom
 
My five string Thundergut set arrived today. I only felt them in the bag but can tell the texture isn't for me at all. I hope I can return them.

However, the low B is one of the new Thunder Reds. It feels great; I hope Mimmo offers full long scale sets of these for the solidbody fives.
 
My five string Thundergut set arrived today. I only felt them in the bag but can tell the texture isn't for me at all. I hope I can return them.

However, the low B is one of the new Thunder Reds. It feels great; I hope Mimmo offers full long scale sets of these for the solidbody fives.

Mister Mimmo Peruffo mailed me, that they will deliver the Reds only with knots at one end, because 'end pins are not a good solution'. So I suppose they will not fit the solidbodies...
 
Hi folks, after lurking for months and having made 1 post I have now found something I can ask!

I am interested in there:
http://kala-gear.hostedbyamazon.com...archPage=1&searchRank=salesrank&searchSize=12

But I am not interested in paying the $34 for shipping to Europe. Does anyone know where I might be able to get them other than Kala, the manufacturer hasn't emailed me back (yet) and my search on ebay and Amazon came up with nothing.

If anyone has another solution suggestion I'm open to that. I have a red SUB that is waiting for some holes to be drilled in it.
 
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