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Kala UBass Megathread, Part 7

Been trying to decide whether to get the nomad or the scout.... Looks like the main difference is the cutaway. Does anyone know if this affects the sound in any way? I know when it comes to acoustic guitars it does.
You’re going to have to play with an amp, so the only way it will make a difference is if you mic it instead of using a ¼ inch jack. I believe the piezo pickup/ electronics are the same

Strings make a bigger difference

I say this because it’s too quiet when playing with others
 
I'm picking up a Kala Bamboo Ubass tomorrow! I'm very excited. I had a Cordoba Mini Bass ii about a year ago and foolishly sold it. I just loved having something small to pluck around on at home. I've also started doing some acoustic stuff where I just play my electric quietly through my amp. I know I'll still need to amplify but I'm looking forward to being able to play the Ubass.

I know I don't like the rubber strings. I really want some of the Aquila spiral flats, which is what I had on the Cordoba,, but they're so expensive. I think I'm gonna go with some of the Ubass silver plated nylon core strings (round wound). In all transparency, I didn't read all 100+ pages of this thread, but does anyone have experience with those strings?
 
For what it's worth. I got it, I love it. I ordered the Aquila round spirals but am actually enjoying the stock strings. It's fun to plunk on but I think for actually playing it with a group, the rubber strings feel like they'll slow me down a bit. Of course I can always put them back on if the Aquila's don't work out for me.

Anyway, I'm a happy Kala Bamboo Ubass owner!
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Beautiful little blonde!

My advice, keep the “gummy bear” strings. They have an unique feel and sound.

Now, your next step would be get a Kala Journeyman with Galli Flatwounds.

The two of them put you in Ubass heaven.
Man, I sure would love to pick up a Journeyman! The only reason I was able to pick this one up is because I had just sold a bass and this one was on Marketplace for sale locally for $100 new with tags on it!

I am growing fond of the gummy strings. They have a really fun sound. I've got to try it out amplified a bit more to see if it'll really work for me, my concern is the sustain of the gummy strings and notes being able to ring out.

Either way, I'm loving it!
 
I would greatly appreciate thoughts from those here with experience. I spent time combing through the thread this morning and could not really find what I needed.

Question: with respect to the ORIGINAL SOLID BODY CALIFORNIA UBASS (as pictured here), has anyone tried different strings on it (flats, nylons, rounds) and what was the result? Did the neck (which does not have a truss rod) do well with the added tension? Did the strings fit through the body? Did the nut require modification?

Thank you very much!!!
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Sorry, I should have been more specific. I'm playing a fretted model. With the old pahoehoe strings, the fretted intonation was good—the issue was that, when doing long slides up the neck, the string would slacken between the fret and bridge, so I would be off by a semitone when reaching the high fret. With the abundance of new string types available now, I was hoping that maybe one of the other string models would have addressed this issue with less malleable strings (the Thunder Reds, perhaps?).
I hope I'm not stating the obvious here but... just slide up an extra semitone? Or just slightly higher than the intended tone?
It's an extra thought in the process but it seems that, when playing a brass instrument, you can use your mouth (eg holding the lips a bit tighter raises the note slightly) to adjust pitch. Surely it's easier to either move further along the string to raise the note to compensate for the dropped pitch or bend the string to do the same thing? (Since bending the string requires an additional movement, I'd be more inclined to just move along the string slightly.)
Let your ears adjust the pitch. Don't be restricted by what your hands/fingers are supposed to be doing- let your hearing guide you and make the adjustment.
 
I hope I'm not stating the obvious here but... just slide up an extra semitone? Or just slightly higher than the intended tone?
It's an extra thought in the process but it seems that, when playing a brass instrument, you can use your mouth (eg holding the lips a bit tighter raises the note slightly) to adjust pitch. Surely it's easier to either move further along the string to raise the note to compensate for the dropped pitch or bend the string to do the same thing? (Since bending the string requires an additional movement, I'd be more inclined to just move along the string slightly.)
Let your ears adjust the pitch. Don't be restricted by what your hands/fi
Elle, the post you are replying to is almost five years old. Don't know if @93tillnfinity is still around.
 
Hello,

I own a Fender Fullerton Uke bass.
I installed a set of Aquila round spirals on Thursday evening.
The bass is a 20.25” scale. The A string popped at the tuner when tuning to pitch.
Contacted Strings by Mail and another A is in the way.
The bass was sitting on the couch earlier on Friday, I heard a pop and the E string just did the same.
I contacted the company again and Matt is basically sending a new pack.
He recommended these strings for my uke bass.
Anyone else have this issue with these strings or their flats?
Maybe a faulty pack?
I installed the stock strings for now.
I play out a few times a month and don’t feel good about using the strings live.
 

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An old thread, but hoping someone has more input on using a passive magnetic pickup on a U-Bass. I'm not too satisfied with the string to string volume with the piezo, Stripped Ebony U-Bass. I have whites on now after giving up on reds. I had flats for a while and the string to string volume levels were worse, especially the G. The sound hole measures 3" and it looks like a Telecaster pickup will fit. A hot rails probably. I did do a quick test with an old Strat pickup and it worked with the strings I have. They have black wrappings. I think they might be made by La Bella, but am not sure as they were given to me. Any insights appreciated.
 
An old thread, but hoping someone has more input on using a passive magnetic pickup on a U-Bass. I'm not too satisfied with the string to string volume with the piezo, Stripped Ebony U-Bass. I have whites on now after giving up on reds. I had flats for a while and the string to string volume levels were worse, especially the G. The sound hole measures 3" and it looks like a Telecaster pickup will fit. A hot rails probably. I did do a quick test with an old Strat pickup and it worked with the strings I have. They have black wrappings. I think they might be made by La Bella, but am not sure as they were given to me. Any insights appreciated.
I saw your post and remembered that I had seen some others with possible solutions to the somewhat common problem. Here's one thread which discusses it. Ubass, erratic volume levels on each string
 
I would greatly appreciate thoughts from those here with experience. I spent time combing through the thread this morning and could not really find what I needed.

Question: with respect to the ORIGINAL SOLID BODY CALIFORNIA UBASS (as pictured here), has anyone tried different strings on it (flats, nylons, rounds) and what was the result? Did the neck (which does not have a truss rod) do well with the added tension? Did the strings fit through the body? Did the nut require modification?

Thank you very much!!!
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Hi Twocan,

Former Kala luthier from the Petaluma shop here. The original California UBASSes were designed specifically with the rubber strings in mind. Steel-core strings are off limits due to the softness of the plastic saddles and the as you mentioned, the absence of a truss rod to counteract their much higher tension.

As you are likely aware, the latest iteration of the California UBASS adds a truss rod and utilizes an individual saddle type metal bridge which does allow you to use synthetic-core silver-plated roundwound strings. But flatwound strings are still not an option for even the newest basses because the flatwounds have so much more tension.
 
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I had flats for a while and the string to string volume levels were worse, especially the G.
(...)
I did do a quick test with an old Strat pickup and it worked with the strings I have. They have black wrappings. I think they might be made by La Bella, but am not sure as they were given to me.
Are the strings that you have, and the flats you had for a while, the same strings?

If so, is there black silk at both ends, or only at the tuner end?

If the former, they're Kala KA-BASS-4FW flats, made by Galli (the factory designation is UXB910C).

If the latter, they're the KA-BASS-4FW-SC set, made by La Bella, and unsuitable for hollow-body U-basses because their steel core makes them intonate poorly on an instrument whose brodge has been positioned with synthetic (core) strings in mind, i.e. not back enough for steel-core strings.
 
Hi Twocan,

Former Kala luthier from the Petaluma shop here. The original California UBASSes were designed specifically with the rubber strings in mind. Steel-core strings are off limits due to the softness of the plastic saddles and the as you mentioned, the absence of a truss rod to counteract their much higher tension.

As you are likely aware, the latest iteration of the California UBASS adds a truss rod and utilizes an individual saddle type metal bridge which does allow you to use synthetic-core silver-plated roundwound strings. But fatwound strings are still not an option for even the newest basses because the flatwounds have so much more tension.
Brad, thanks for sharing this info. I have wondered about these aspects of the UBASS, so now I have the explanations. Much appreciated.
 
For those of you who own a solid body Kala, what are your thoughts on the string break angle at the nut? Is it worth installing a string retainer?

Specifically - I have the 5 string model, haven’t done a setup yet or changed strings. Does this look a little high…?
 

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