Kala UBass Megathread, Part 7

[SBassman]

First look at my California fretted 4, home built from Kala parts.

I contoured the swamp ash body to an offset waist, added a figured myrtle pickguard and headstock.
Modified bridge for lower action, discarded the fixed bridge pins to make it relocatable for string length and angle for improved intonation.
California neck with super-jumbo 6105 .055" frets.

Patiently waiting for Aquila Red strings.

Untitled by ~dave~~wave~, on Flickr

Very, very beautiful.

 

[macmanlou]

First look at my California fretted 4, home built from Kala parts.

I contoured the swamp ash body to an offset waist, added a figured myrtle pickguard and headstock.
Modified bridge for lower action, discarded the fixed bridge pins to make it relocatable for string length and angle for improved intonation.
California neck with super-jumbo 6105 .055" frets.

Patiently waiting for Aquila Red strings.

Untitled by ~dave~~wave~, on Flickr

The reds are going to look very nice on that bass, Dave. Nice work!

 

[davewave]

Hi Dave, you 'discarded the fixed bridge pins'...
Detail pic appreciated.

In building my own Cali fretted from parts, I learned a lot.

Maybe the most important thing was a simple idea for making the bridge adjustable for intonation.

Every bass I've ever owned has string length compensation, including my 2011 S-U-B:

So I was disappointed when my Cali body showed up pre-drilled for the bridge posts with the bridge square with the nut. All strings exactly the same length at the bridge.

Kala is building this instrument like it's a ukulele, not a bass.
This forum has many posts saying you will never get a fretted U-Bass to play in tune, so live with it or buy a fretless.

I say there is a better way.
To begin with, the adjustable bridge height design is worthless to me, all I ever do is lower it as far as it will go and curse because the strings are still way too high.
Why would Kala design a bridge to raise the strings another half-inch higher?

I went to the hardware store and found a bolt that matched the bridge pins. ( I think it was 5mm x 0.80 pitch.)
I used the bolt to extract the friction inserts that the bridge pins thread into.

I used wooden dowels and plastic wood filler to fill the holes.

I sanded 5 mm off the bottom of the bridge, to make the string height better.
I experimented with the angle and placement of the bridge for the best intonation, then fixed it in place with two screws.

 

[bluecab]

Thanks Dave for your photographic efforts. A really nice piece of work. Kala should think about it...

 

[SBassman]

In building my own Cali fretted from parts, I learned a lot....

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Absolutely stunning. You do mighty fine work.

 

[davewave]

No whining about stickiness or talcum powder.
Read it and weep, 3234718.



http://www.talkbass.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=387505&stc=1&d=1389993693

http://www.talkbass.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=387505&stc=1&d=1389993693

 

[Gorn]

Figures.

 

[davewave]

This is the back side of the flyer in the string package, talking about right hand technique.

Italian is such a beautiful language.

Le corde rosse sono molto belle.
Molte grazie al nostro buon amico, Mimmo.


http://www.talkbass.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=387510&stc=1&d=1389996187

 

[SBassman]

I'm not getting the read and weep part yet.

[Agree - Italian is an awesome language. Being Italian myself.]

 

[Gorn]

I'm not sure either, but whatever stupid chemical my fingertips produce pretty much rules out aquila thunder_____ strings.

 

[SBassman]

I'm not sure either, but whatever stupid chemical my fingertips produce pretty much rules out aquila thunder_____ strings.

I think we need to do more research with string lubes.
Would you consider using the strings with a finger-ease like lube if we found one that worked and didn't kill the strings?

Some time ago I took one for the team and bought some lube to research this. But at that time, I didn't have an acoustic UBass. I only had an SUB that had pickup characteristics that were very different from the acoustics.

I think there's a chance there is a lube out there that won't make a mess, won't alter tone, but will get rid of the tackiness for those people having problems with it.

?

 

[Gorn]

Meh, I'm happy enough with pahoehoehoehoes. I didn't have high hopes for the reds anyway. Road toad got it right the first time and aquila never quite got it, for me anyway. And besides the annoying break in time and low tension, I prefer the sound of the hoehoes over the other options. It's all about the sound anyway right?

Lots of people love the thunderguts and they'll probably like the reds too.

We'll see how the tapewounds turn out.

 

[macmanlou]

Meh, I'm happy enough with pahoehoehoehoes. I didn't have high hopes for the reds anyway. Road toad got it right the first time and aquila never quite got it, for me anyway. And besides the annoying break in time and low tension, I prefer the sound of the hoehoes over the other options. It's all about the sound anyway right?

Lots of people love the thunderguts and they'll probably like the reds too.

We'll see how the tapewounds turn out.

+1

I'm betting that La Bella officially announces the white tapes at NAMM, next week.

 

[davewave]

I'm not getting the read and weep part yet.

[Agree - Italian is an awesome language. Being Italian myself.]

Let me put it in a way you can understand, mio amico.

By the way, I just discovered spell check works in Italian on this forum, how great is that?

ATTENZIONE!
Se le corde sono poco scorrevoli alle dita delle mani usare del borotalco dei prodotti specifici.

Always read the fine print at the bottom of the package.

 

[tymbrewolf]

Gold Tone will have their new instrument and special strings at NAMM too. Solid body magnetic pickup and transducer pickup with tapewounds I believe. I was told suggested retail around 750 so maybe 575 or so.

 

[davewave]

The E and A are smaller diameter than TGs and Rumblers, and much more elastic, like pahoeoes.

I decided to put these on the trusty old S-U-B to give them a fair trial, since the Cali home-built is still a work in progress.

I did replace the original with a new tusq nut, $6 from Kala.
I didn't modify the slots for the factory strings.
The E slot is a little wide, the rest are ok.

First impressions-
Intonation- excellent.
I think these are closer to the hybrid between pahoeoes and Thunderguts that we were expecting with the Silver Rumblers.

The G string is fairly slick, the rest are more papery textured. I will use a light dusting of pool cue talc on them.
http://www.muellers.com/Hand-Talc,2709.html


A toast to Mimmo with La Rossa (The Red) Italian beer, another job well done.

I'll let these settle overnight and see about getting something up on YouTube tomorrow.

 

[jburtonca]

I think we need to do more research with string lubes.
Would you consider using the strings with a finger-ease like lube if we found one that worked and didn't kill the strings?

Some time ago I took one for the team and bought some lube to research this. But at that time, I didn't have an acoustic UBass. I only had an SUB that had pickup characteristics that were very different from the acoustics.

I think there's a chance there is a lube out there that won't make a mess, won't alter tone, but will get rid of the tackiness for those people having problems with it.

?

I use a mineral oil soaked sponge in a Lock & Lock container. Touch sponge with your finger tips and slide them along the string. It works well and does not leave messy talc residue behind.

http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f8/kala-ubass-megathread-part-4-a-893171/index45.html#post13373150

Jeff

 

[SBassman]

I use a mineral oil soaked sponge in a Lock & Lock container. Touch sponge with your finger tips and slide them along the string. It works well and does not leave messy talc residue behind.

http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f8/kala-ubass-megathread-part-4-a-893171/index45.html#post13373150

Jeff

What kind of mineral oil?

 

[jburtonca]

What kind of mineral oil?

Any light generic mineral oil will do. It is sold in any local drug store/pharmacy. It's very inexpensive and has no scent. It is much easier to control the application than talc.
I would prefer to not use anything, but if needed this is the way to go, in my experience.

Jeff

 

[SBassman]

Any light generic mineral oil will do. It is sold in any local drug store/pharmacy. It's very inexpensive and has no scent. It is much easier to control the application than talc.
I would prefer to not use anything, but if needed this is the way to go, in my experience.

Jeff

Interesting. I will definitely give that a test at some point.