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Double Bass Kay experts please chime in

I recently purchased what appears to be a 1937 Kay Blond M-4, based on photos I have seen across the web. I do not see a Kay label on the inside, but instead a strange label has been placed possibly over it. I will post a photo of it. I did find a handwritten number inside, 1471 I think. I would love to hear if you think this really is a Kay and what the penciled number means. Also, which parts have been replaced. Thanks!
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Looks like a Kay to me, but I'm far from expert. Steve will be along shortly.

Obviously the tailpiece, tailgut, and endpin are new. Gut strings are NOT! :D How do those strings sound?
Well, I am new to upright. The string height seems really high, but the G and D gut sound really awesome! I was able to tune all the strings, but the E is still pretty flat and so is the A (not as bad as the E). Is there a way to "revive" the E and A, or do I just need new strings for those?
 
I believe you've already properly ID'd this one as a '37 M-4. @Steven Ayres will probably confirm and no doubt add to, but the inlaid purfling around the border, but lack of it around the f-holes is one tell. That, and the serial number.

I couldn't tell from the pictures, but does it have a little ebony horseshoe at the button? Is the fingerboard ebony, or really dark rosewood?

Mostly, Congratulations & Compliments, that's a lovely bass!

*I will guess that it was made for export...
 
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Thank you! It does not have the ebony horshoe at the button. I have to admit it is hard to tell what the fretboard is because it gets lighter at the end, but I am thinking it is ebony as it is pretty dark everywhere else.
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The primary spec difference between Maestro-series and Supreme-series instruments is the fingerboard wood: rosewood for M, ebony for S. The ebony 'horseshoe' heel cap is an S feature as well. Exception: The M-4 is the blonde version of the original M-1 Alvin Hawes, and early examples of either of these may have ebony or Brazilian rosewood boards. Looking at it from here it's hard to say definitively; Brazilian rosewood can be very dark, ebony can be less than black. But here's another tip: for most of its stringed instruments Kay consistently used the same wood for the tailpiece as the fingerboard. So unless the board has been changed, I expect it's rosewood.
 
The primary spec difference between Maestro-series and Supreme-series instruments is the fingerboard wood: rosewood for M, ebony for S. The ebony 'horseshoe' heel cap is an S feature as well. Exception: The M-4 is the blonde version of the original M-1 Alvin Hawes, and early examples of either of these may have ebony or Brazilian rosewood boards. Looking at it from here it's hard to say definitively; Brazilian rosewood can be very dark, ebony can be less than black. But here's another tip: for most of its stringed instruments Kay consistently used the same wood for the tailpiece as the fingerboard. So unless the board has been changed, I expect it's rosewood.
Thanks! The tail piece does look more like rosewood. Either way it looks and sounds great. Is it correct to say it is an M-4 Alvin Hawes?
 
I believe you've already properly ID'd this one as a '37 M-4. @Steven Ayres will probably confirm and no doubt add to, but the inlaid purfling around the border, but lack of it around the f-holes is one tell. That, and the serial number.

I couldn't tell from the pictures, but does it have a little ebony horseshoe at the button? Is the fingerboard ebony, or really dark rosewood?

Mostly, Congratulations & Compliments, that's a lovely bass!

*I will guess that it was made for export...
Do you think it was made for export because of the strange label inside? I wonder why they would make one for export the first year they were made.
 
Replaced tailwire & endpin; tailwire not anchored in correct position. Get a spike cap for that endpin!

Tuning machine screws & washers replaced with non brass models (easy $2 fix).

Brazilian rosewood fingerboard.

Incredible curly maple veneers!
Thanks! Where should the tailwire be anchored? Can you send a photo or diagram? A spike cap is a great idea! The fingerboard is in incredible condition. I am extremely happy with my new-to-me first upright bass!
 
Replaced tailwire & endpin; tailwire not anchored in correct position. Get a spike cap for that endpin!

Tuning machine screws & washers replaced with non brass models (easy $2 fix).

Brazilian rosewood fingerboard.

Incredible curly maple veneers!
I just looked at the photos, and I think I see where it should be.
 

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