• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Klos Basses-Carbon necks

As noted in another post, there is indeed a plate of aluminum under the layers of CF which you will tap in to which takes the place of inserts and allows for some leeway should something not go right the first time.

Here's what we're working with, and I just happened to have this bass body neck-less at the moment and it isn't the one it will eventually live on. It's a Fender Player Plus Active P, for reference. It's the same thing on a Warmoth body and is more noticeable without the pickguard.

View attachment 7099385

View attachment 7099386
Thanks for the visuals. See I’m not so worried about having to re-tap or use a larger screw. I’m more worried about if alignment isn’t right, at least with wood you can fill it and start over instead of trying to move a tiny portion of a hole location. That’s already been drilled. Then you’re worrying about walking again even worse than the first time.

Definitely following along to see how this goes. Appreciate you and everyone else here.
 
Last edited:
Ok y'all...this isn't nearly as bad or daunting as it may seem. I just got mine mounted tonight with no hiccups whatsoever and it is spectacular! It's every bit as perfect and familiar as the Modulus and Gould necks I've played on. Do I wish it was essentially plug and play and precision tight like a Warmoth neck from the start? Sure, but they seemed to have done enough due diligence to make the installation trouble free from a fit standpoint. Adding the piece of aluminum into the neck to be able to tap into I have to say was a very unique design choice and will make them far more compatible with other screw hole patterns. I do still wish there had been a bit more upfront or even updated communication about what was going to need be done, but it is what it is at this point. Again, no knock at the KLOS guys who have always been spectacular. I want them to succeed in every which way, and this will all soon be forgotten about as the process gets refined.


A few things to note -

1. If you don't feel comfortable doing this yourself, DON'T! It is non-returnable once you start drilling.

2. READ THE INSTRUCTIONS, and then READ THEM AGAIN! THEY MUST BE FOLLOWED TO THE LETTER!

3. I'm not kidding. FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS. Even if you have done something like this before I can't stress how important it is. It needs to be precise, and you need to be precise in your execution.

4. Things you will need : A clean work surface, set of strings and at least the E and G strings installed into the bridge, a small C clamp (or whatever works for you) to clamp the neck to the body and something to protect them from damage, tape, drill, phillips screwdriver, a way to clamp the neck down so it doesn't move when you need to drill and tap the holes, a way to measure 15mm (I used calipers), PATIENCE.

5. The absolute smartest bit of instruction was to use tape to help get the neck centered in the pocket. I used two layers of blue painters tape and one layer of plastic pin-striping tape on each side of the neck while leaving the heal bare. This combination made the neck fit in the pocket as snug as a factory or Warmoth neck would with basically zero side to side movement. With the neck securely clamped to the body I strung up the E and G strings with just enough tension to keep them in place so I could eyeball how they lined up. Being that this was a Warmoth body, everything was already very precise and I actually didn't have to do anything further to get it perfect. The tape is the trick to getting it right, and you will encounter problems if you do not get the neck centered in the pocket before getting the holes started.

6. I think the length of the screws they provided are at least 1/4" shorter than they should be using. They do thread into the aluminum when the neck is on the body, but not enough to my liking especially for how much was tapped. I plan to replace them with something longer ASAP.

IMG_1732.jpg

So there you have it! I'll post a full photo of the bass it's on when I have a chance to take it in better lighting. Please feel free to ask any questions!
 
Last edited:
Do they offer the option of having holes predrilled for standard Fender-style neck pockets?

Predrilled - not to my knowledge. The last email I got about why they aren't sending them predrilled is because there's too many variables and they want to make sure it fits your bass perfectly. They will, for an extra cost, have you ship them your bass body and they will install the neck, set it up, and ship it back.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Saetia and DJ Bebop
Glad it worked out seamless for you and for providing your thoughts, goes a long way. I was able to play one of their 4 strings in white at Music Go Round Greenfield. It was nice to get my hands on one and feel / compare to my Modulus. Neck felt great, the goofy headstock through me off though. Not as small front to back as the early Q4’s but not as thick as say the neck on my 95 Q5 (I know 4 and 5 string. Honestly a wonderful neck that was different than what I was used to and I liked it. I will leave out my review of other parts of the bass but I will say the neck was great. I will also say the bass was incredibly light.
 
Glad it worked out seamless for you and for providing your thoughts, goes a long way. I was able to play one of their 4 strings in white at Music Go Round Greenfield. It was nice to get my hands on one and feel / compare to my Modulus. Neck felt great, the goofy headstock through me off though. Not as small front to back as the early Q4’s but not as thick as say the neck on my 95 Q5 (I know 4 and 5 string. Honestly a wonderful neck that was different than what I was used to and I liked it. I will leave out my review of other parts of the bass but I will say the neck was great. I will also say the bass was incredibly light.

It's been about 2 years since I have played on one of their factory basses, but the feel and specs of those necks I believe is different. This plays like a fast Fender neck with all of the tone and sustain you come to expect with CF. I got the 1-1/2" nut and the standard radius, but they do offer wider and a compound radius option. The headstock on this is fantastic, much like a standard EBMM 3+1. Not goofy at all and everything feels balanced. I'm also a big fan of tiltback designs and it really does the job well.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Saetia and Benko
It's been about 2 years since I have played on one of their factory basses, but the feel and specs of those necks I believe is different. This plays like a fast Fender neck with all of the tone and sustain you come to expect with CF. I got the 1-1/2" nut and the standard radius, but they do offer wider and a compound radius option. The headstock on this is fantastic, much like a standard EBMM 3+1. Not goofy at all and everything feels balanced. I'm also a big fan of tiltback designs and it really does the job well.
I thought I’d just add. Their CF work seems to be of great quality and their proprietary neck profile on their factory basses are great.
 
  • Like
Reactions: fauxtoe

Small update -

I ended up swapping the bridge for a Hipshot A Style that I had sitting around. It's the model made for the Fender screw hole pattern. On the Kluson bridge I had been using (which is the branded model of Fender's Hi-Mass bridge) it bottomed out before I could get everything as low as I'd like. I wasn't in the mood to shim the neck pocket since everything was already playing very even from the Plek job and the strings just needed to get that much lower. Now I have a more than enough to go either way, so it's something to keep in mind as you are dialing everything in since the neck thickness might vary if you had one on prior to the KLOS neck.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Saetia
Low priced carbon fiber is like those "stainless steel" knives you see at a flea market.

Is it technically carbon fiber? Sure. Have I been able to snap a piece of carbon fiber with my bare hands, yeah I did that once.

When it comes to different materials there are certain standards that most common folk haven't read about. Here is a $7,804 mirror that can fit in your pocket, but if you ever touch it, it becomes almost entirely worthless:

80Z20ER.2 Silver Mirror

Now that carbon fiber, has it been X-ray for voids? Pockets of air that when found in some carbon fiber are thrown in a reject pile at an aeronautics factory? Or is it some guy in his back yard that just poured the epoxy into a mold and saw a drip of his sweat fall in for the fourth time and say "ah poopie" in Mandarin?
Negative people will always find something wrong with solutions. You are assuming all too much from a price point perspective. I will dismiss your ignorance. Iam sure these necks are pretty awesome.
 
Negative people will always find something wrong with solutions. You are assuming all too much from a price point perspective. I will dismiss your ignorance. Iam sure these necks are pretty awesome.

I know you were replying to a several years old comment, but 100% agree. And the necks are extremely awesome!

Some points -

- Carbon fiber is not indestructible, but it is very, very strong.
- Carbon fiber isn't perfect, and anyone who says otherwise hasn't played on enough CF necks to be able to compare. I have five basses with CF necks (have owned a total of seven) and they all have their quirks, just like wood. It's a man-made object and it's subject to the human influence. It is, however, remarkably consistent with its tone and predictability.
- This is not aerospace or any other industry where a catastrophic failure could be the difference between life and death. It's a bass neck. Let's not get in over our heads here.
- The necks are hundreds of dollars, not thousands (though the 5 string necks can get there with the right options)
- There has to be an acceptable level of tolerance which still allows for it to function within spec.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Shlabotnik