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Koa P

#64
aaronious said:
What is that handy dandy little tool there? I assume you used that to shave it down?
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It's an Ibex planer. Incredibly handy.Addictive even, once you get going. They come in different sizes. That one is the smallest.

PDX Rich said:
It sure seemed that way to me! I can only imagine it gets a bit easier with repetition.....I hope so at least. :)
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No, it really doesn't. BTW, it's the part of the build I like the least. It takes at least 25% of the time I take to build an instrument. I might job out the finishing one of these days.

PDX Rich said:
That looks great! I agree on the steel wool. That crap gets everywhere and tack cloth isn't entirely effective. I may give the tung oil a shot when I do another Tru Oil finish. I didn't use the BC wax product--I used auto wax instead. I am curious how that turns out!
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.
With respect to the Tung oil, It works really well ONLY if it's a fresh bottle, and the coats that are put on are very thinly.
With respect to the BC wax, the patch of wood that I did to test turned out really nice. I was using bowling alley wax prior to this. I like the BC stuff a little better.
 
#65
Scoops said:
It's an Ibex planer. Incredibly handy.Addictive even, once you get going. They come in different sizes. That one is the smallest.


No, it really doesn't. BTW, it's the part of the build I like the least. It takes at least 25% of the time I take to build an instrument. I might job out the finishing one of these days.

.
With respect to the Tung oil, It works really well ONLY if it's a fresh bottle, and the coats that are put on are very thinly.
With respect to the BC wax, the patch of wood that I did to test turned out really nice. I was using bowling alley wax prior to this. I like the BC stuff a little better.
Click to expand...
thank you
 
#66
Yeah, steel wool isn't good for much, and it crumbles into tiny particles that get into open grain and cause black staining when they oxidize. I wonder if you could get the worst of the paticles off with a magnet? Better yet, don't use it at all, and go synthetic. One finish disaster with steel wool on oak was enough for me.
 
#67
Oh.....did I forget to mention that yesterday was BAD? Well, it was. Here are the results of my BAD day.


5-51P50.jpg


5-51P51.jpg


Link Removed

5-51P53.jpg
 
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#70
OK so I've had this together for a couple days. Here are my initial Impressions

1) A highly polished ebony board comes really close to the mwah of an epoxied board.
2) The A string was a pain to get so the set was balanced. Still don't have it completely dialed in yet, but it will get there
3) I must have twisted the B string, or something. It doesn't have the same response as the rest of the strings. It seems a little dead. Its essentially a new set. I have the same set of strings on other 5'rs, and the B sounds fine. Need to sort out.
4) The neck changed shape a little while I was finishing the body. When I originally set it up, just a little tension on the TR yielded a straight neck. While it sat, it back bowed a bit. Lucky I had a double action TR in there because I had to put some back tension on the rod to get it straight. (I think I said this right)
5) I'm liking the Bill Lawrence pups. Not quite sure I'd use them in a 5 string application again though.

I'll try to post mp3's in a couple days

Cheers
 
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#73
Well done brother Scoops! You've been incredibly busy these last months, so it's great to see you get some recognition and satisfaction for all of your hard work! I toast a glass of Yuengling Black & Tan to you!
 
#75
That's a beautiful bass you built, Scoops. Very nice. I especially like the binding on the body.

I like how you extended the bevel on the back of the neck to help you locate the F. It's similar to
the way a double bass is set up, to let you know what neck you have, and helps to locate that note.
 

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