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Laguna burger build

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Pics, or they have nothing to be mad about ;)
Still have a ways to go. I bought an 80 grit flap disk for the grinder, but if I screw anything up at this point, I would have to completely start over. So I'm taking off about 3 microns at a time.
Speaking of which, I used the 1/4" round over bit for the edges, but I would really like 1/2". But I'm a little nervous about how close that will get me to the edge of my cover plate. I kinda screwed up on that one a little. And of course, I don't have a 3/8. Just 1/4 and 1/2.
And speaking of screwing up,....I radiused my board at 8" instead of 16".
Cuz, ya know,.....math!
Unbelievable. Have to make a whole new jig.
Anyway,..if anyone needs a 3x27x1/4 wenge blank that's radiused to 8", let me know.
 

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I agree on the table saw rig for regular building. Shoot, it would be nice even if I only made one. Currently I have a small blue ryobi table saw in the shop at work. I rescued it along with the band saw. But the table isn't true. I bought the small newer green model for home, but it's small and the motor has no ramp up. It fires up at full speed with an unsettling jolt. If/when the time comes, I'd like to make a little shop of my own and I will have a nice saw section built into a bench.
For now, I have a hand fret saw on the way and for no good reason, I radiused my board already. It's an extra step, I know, but I'm considering making a radiused miter box so the slots are a consistent depth. I have a 16" radius on my board, so the center may not be that much deeper if I cut the slots flat.
Not sure yet. I'll cross that bridge when I get to it.
That's assuming I don't get lost and actually find the bridge.

Gotcha. Without a stable setup for your tablesaw its going to be much safer to go with the miter box. The great thing about that setup is that you can still use the slotting template setup with your miter box to keep your fret spacing accurate and you can add the blade and sled setup down the road once you have your tablesaw set up the way you like it.

Building a jig for radiusing the slots is an interesting idea but it might be simpler to see if you can fit your fretsaw with a depth stop like this one. If you cut your slots shallow to begin with you can then radius your board and let it be the guide for the depth stop to keep the slot depth even.

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Cutting the fret slots is such an important operation that I wouldn't want to complicate it by trying to work the radius into that process at the same time.
 
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And speaking of screwing up,....I radiused my board at 8" instead of 16".
Cuz, ya know,.....math!
Unbelievable. Have to make a whole new jig.
Anyway,..if anyone needs a 3x27x1/4 wenge blank that's radiused to 8", let me know.
I have done this very thing. :D Someone had a great idea for me - glue some veneer to the underside of the fretboard and redo it with the larger radius. This lets the board get thickened up a little in the end with the shallower radius being put in place. Might not work with this particular instrument, but you could always save it for the next one. :thumbsup:
 
I have done this very thing. :D Someone had a great idea for me - glue some veneer to the underside of the fretboard and redo it with the larger radius. This lets the board get thickened up a little in the end with the shallower radius being put in place. Might not work with this particular instrument, but you could always save it for the next one. :thumbsup:

One thing in his favor is that the 8" radius can be sanded/cut down to 16" without removing any thickness from the edge. As long as the edge of the board is thick enough I dont see why this board can't be radiused down again.
 
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I have done this very thing. :D Someone had a great idea for me - glue some veneer to the underside of the fretboard and redo it with the larger radius. This lets the board get thickened up a little in the end with the shallower radius being put in place. Might not work with this particular instrument, but you could always save it for the next one. :thumbsup:
Luckily, I cut enough out of the wenge to screw up 4-5 more boards.
I can get 1-2 more out of the 3" blank I cut this one from and the grain will be pretty much the same. Unfortunately, the next 2 pieces have a tiny worm hole. But I should be able to fill it..
 
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One thing in his favor is that the 8" radius can be sanded/cut down to 16" without removing any thickness from the edge. As long as the edge of the board is thick enough I dont see why this board can't be radiused down again.
I'm replacing the board on a neck thru neck that's already done so, the board has to be the same thickness, which it already is. It's all good though, I'll make a new one. I'm lucky that this is the biggest mistake so far.
But I'll probably still pout about it for a minute.
 
...Are you guys printing out the full board pic at some printing depot place?
No, I cheat like mad. My day job allows me access to a large scale plotter so I can plot full size up to 40" wide paper rolls. So yeah, I printed my entire AutoCAD drawing full scale, and then printed separate fretboard prints full scale. But again, I'm spoiled, and the process to go from FretFind2D into AutoCAD and then print full size is rather seamless for me due to the tools at my disposal. YMMV. :thumbsup:
 
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Nothing too exciting today. I was out of MDF and could only find one decent scrap of ply to make another radius sled. But I made it work. The new board was cut from the blank that was right next to the first blank. This one had a tiny worm hole and curved slightly when it was cut free. It curved side to the side, if you held it flat and looked down the length. I sanded it by hand with a straight edge so it would sit square in the miter jig for fret slots. I was expecting it to turn out much worse. Not sure if I'm paying much more attention because it's a bass and not a deck, or if wenge is just much easier to work with and more well behaved than I was anticipating.
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iirc classic Fender boards are 7.5" radius so you should be able to find someone who would appreciate an 8" radius board.

heck, if I was building an instrument right now I'd page you about it.
I'm going to wrap it in paper, tape it to a board for support and box it up with a desiccant packet. It's not the holy grail or anything, but it might get someone out of a bind someday. I don't want anything for it.
Do we have a "pay it forward" type thread somewhere? If not, that would be good to have around here.
 
Do we have a "pay it forward" type thread somewhere? If not, that would be good to have around here.
It was suggested a few months ago. I support it.

The idea was a sticky thread here in the LC that would act as a more casual friendly " classified". Where just us builders in this community could sell cheap, trade, barter, or give away to a good home... spare... wood, components, electronics etc... that all of us who have been doing this Luthier stuff for a minute or two... have laying around just collecting dust.
With a definite emphasis on the "barter/trade/free aspect. Promoting a spirit of specifically helping those just starting out building instruments. And/or those builders who's budgetary constraints preclude them from buying decent components.

Alas... the idea was politely if not summarily dismissed as a... conflicting interest of the actual TalkBass classifieds ... ??
Or something like that. :meh:
 
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That stinks.
I think the whole conflict with classifieds is a crock. If anything it's ill-advised because of its potential to be abused and taken advantage of.
Hate to be cynical, but with so many eyes on the site, it's very possible and even likely. People are people.
Oh well.
I've soaked up so much freely given advice on here that I'd be more than happy to give back in any way I can.
(Within reason. Don't be asking me to babysit your rotten kids or get your deadbeat BIL a job or anything crazy).