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Still have a ways to go. I bought an 80 grit flap disk for the grinder, but if I screw anything up at this point, I would have to completely start over. So I'm taking off about 3 microns at a time.Pics, or they have nothing to be mad about![]()
I agree on the table saw rig for regular building. Shoot, it would be nice even if I only made one. Currently I have a small blue ryobi table saw in the shop at work. I rescued it along with the band saw. But the table isn't true. I bought the small newer green model for home, but it's small and the motor has no ramp up. It fires up at full speed with an unsettling jolt. If/when the time comes, I'd like to make a little shop of my own and I will have a nice saw section built into a bench.
For now, I have a hand fret saw on the way and for no good reason, I radiused my board already. It's an extra step, I know, but I'm considering making a radiused miter box so the slots are a consistent depth. I have a 16" radius on my board, so the center may not be that much deeper if I cut the slots flat.
Not sure yet. I'll cross that bridge when I get to it.
That's assuming I don't get lost and actually find the bridge.
I have done this very thing.And speaking of screwing up,....I radiused my board at 8" instead of 16".
Cuz, ya know,.....math!
Unbelievable. Have to make a whole new jig.
Anyway,..if anyone needs a 3x27x1/4 wenge blank that's radiused to 8", let me know.
Agreed. And now that I realized I screwed up and did an 8" radius, the new board will be 16", which is relatively flat.Cutting the fret slots is such an important operation that I wouldn't want to complicate it by trying to work the radius into that process at the same time.
I have done this very thing.Someone had a great idea for me - glue some veneer to the underside of the fretboard and redo it with the larger radius. This lets the board get thickened up a little in the end with the shallower radius being put in place. Might not work with this particular instrument, but you could always save it for the next one.
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Luckily, I cut enough out of the wenge to screw up 4-5 more boards.I have done this very thing.Someone had a great idea for me - glue some veneer to the underside of the fretboard and redo it with the larger radius. This lets the board get thickened up a little in the end with the shallower radius being put in place. Might not work with this particular instrument, but you could always save it for the next one.
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Agreed. And now that I realized I screwed up and did an 8" radius, the new board will be 16", which is relatively flat.
I'm replacing the board on a neck thru neck that's already done so, the board has to be the same thickness, which it already is. It's all good though, I'll make a new one. I'm lucky that this is the biggest mistake so far.One thing in his favor is that the 8" radius can be sanded/cut down to 16" without removing any thickness from the edge. As long as the edge of the board is thick enough I dont see why this board can't be radiused down again.
It's clearly a "Dino-Caster", right? Don't we name everything "XXX-Caster" now-a-days?Pine-o-saurus!
No, I cheat like mad. My day job allows me access to a large scale plotter so I can plot full size up to 40" wide paper rolls. So yeah, I printed my entire AutoCAD drawing full scale, and then printed separate fretboard prints full scale. But again, I'm spoiled, and the process to go from FretFind2D into AutoCAD and then print full size is rather seamless for me due to the tools at my disposal. YMMV....Are you guys printing out the full board pic at some printing depot place?
I'm afraid that aside from being 34" scale, there isn't one, single other detail or aspect of this bass that would be accepted in the church of Leo.Not sure how I missed this way back when, but...
It's clearly a "Dino-Caster", right? Don't we name everything "XXX-Caster" now-a-days?
I'm going to wrap it in paper, tape it to a board for support and box it up with a desiccant packet. It's not the holy grail or anything, but it might get someone out of a bind someday. I don't want anything for it.iirc classic Fender boards are 7.5" radius so you should be able to find someone who would appreciate an 8" radius board.
heck, if I was building an instrument right now I'd page you about it.
It was suggested a few months ago. I support it.Do we have a "pay it forward" type thread somewhere? If not, that would be good to have around here.
