• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Laguna burger build

#21
Well, I just got everything removed from the bass.
Just the wood weighs 5.8 lbs.
I weighed everything that was on the bass, including the strings and batteries. It came in at 3 lbs!
The bridge and knobs are brass and much heavier than I expected.
Now I'm wondering if I should find something lighter that's black, rather than paying for powder coating.
I'll do some research tonight to see if there's any diy way to maybe dye or mechanically finish the brass.
Not sure what to do.
I'm sure this will happen at every step.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Beej
#22
Also, what's this about?
What's the point of grounding to the wood?
KIMG1437.JPG
 
#24
I just recommended it in another thread, but rustoleum has come a long way in the last few years. I have a bridge I painted two years ago that gets played a lot and it's still solid with no worn spots. :thumbsup:

Or you could go the home powdercoating method and buy a sprayer and a toaster oven for a couple hundred. 22 guitars from now, you'll thank me. :smug:
 
  • Like
Reactions: Rôckhewer, Deleted member 365158 and RichterScale
#30
Ok, so the super awesome woodworking store I found locally last year that I recently found out has domestic and exotic wood stock?....
They only have 3/4" stuff and most of it is 3-5" in width.
However,.....they have 1-1/16"x5" boards of basswood. That would work dimensionally.
Just wanted to mention that and get it out of the way so someone can tell me it's too soft and I can forget it and move on.
 
#32
Slidlow said:
Probably simpler to make new:woot:!
Click to expand...

There is way more truth in this statement than is immediately apparent!

Beej said:
Before you hack off the wings... I highly recommend taking many, many detailed photographs and also measuring lots of distances and recording those for future reference.

I'd also suggest using a pattern bit to make templates for the pickup cavities and control cavity. Basically, you put some masking tape down on the body and double-side tape down a blank piece of MDF over the cavity. Then use a router with one of these bits to trace around the inside of the pickup cavity, which transfers that shape to the MDF template above. :thumbsup:
View attachment 4187163

You'll thank me when you have some perfectly sized templates to use for routing the new body in the future... :D
Click to expand...

(my bold)

Use a body-sized board for the template. You can make one template for bridge and pickup locations (and neck pocket, if it were a bolt-on) in one step. Before you attach the template to the body, accurately eyeball where the bridge would go on the template, and mount it right there on the template. Then take off the bridge and screw the template to the body with those bridge holes and the bridge screws. Also use the tape because routers love to make templates drift.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Beej
#33
You can change the headstock the same way you are changing the body - saw (or rout) off and glue on - if you want to.

There are a number of options for blackening brass that are less prone to flake off than paint - chemicals to oxidise/patinate the raw brass (once you clean it well) to various colors, black being one choice. "Birchwood Casey Brass Black" seems to be one that pops up from a well-respected source, there are undoubtedly others.

On the third hand, you could swap the knobs for something lighter. Probably keep the bridge, though.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: TrustRod, RichterScale and Reedt2000
#35
Basswood would work fine, it's just not much to look at. 3/4" thick hardwood boards makes it easy - you just need two to get your 1.5" thickness. 5" wide should be good if you keep your shape tame. Or go shopping online!
 
#36
This is true. But I had a brain fart and forgot the rest of the info.
They also have everything from veneer thickness to 1/4, to 1/2 etc.
I was thinking a 1" core with 1/2" of pretty stuff on top.
Looks like I can get pieces 1/2" x 5"x 24".
Or like you said, (2) 3/4".
Or, 1"+ 1/2".
Or, (3) 1/2"......
This is their site. I really want to be able to pick the wood out in person.
Bubinga by the Piece-1/2
 
#39
Where in WNY are you? I used to spend time over there for work years ago. I went to Pittsford Lumber a bunch of times, they had a lot of nice stuff. Niagara Lumber is good too but more focused on domestics (doubt they would have bubinga).
 
#40
dwizum said:
Where in WNY are you?
Click to expand...
Currently reside in Depew, just outside of Buffalo.
New place is in a rural area in the town of Royalton, next county up.
I was shopping for bluetooth work earbuds and this Rockler place came up as having them in stock. They're about 15 min from me. I thought they were just a mom&pop hardware store. Holy crap!! You should see the tools!
I'd never been in an entire carpentry-specific tool store before. I was like a little kid. The guy at the counter seemed to be getting a kick out of how excited I was.
 
  • Like
Reactions: John_Nicholas, Dean N, deff and 2 others

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back