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Lakland Owners Group #54
- Thread starter Bryan R. Tyler
- Start date
- Status
Really love the tone here of the bass and your cool laid back approach to groove.
Used to have double tea cup pinkies, both hands at the same time, made a conscious effort to stop doing that as it looked too regal for my taste - well that and it was causing strain on my right hand. Also picked up the book Bass Aerobics to help improve my technique.
There was some talk a few days ago about pre's so thought I would share a quick pic of the J-retro I just got to show how easy they are to install - no soldering skills needed. 
The model shown in the picture is the standard version, there is also a deluxe with 4 knobs with a side jack input and a DJ version with a curved plate. I am not affiliated with John East, just love these pre's.
To install just attached the white pickup leads to hot, black to ground via the screw terminals shown below and run the black ground to the bridge or attach it to the existing lead from the bridge. Then plug in the battery, position it flat in the location shown and screw the plate back into place. Done!
The model shown in the picture is the standard version, there is also a deluxe with 4 knobs with a side jack input and a DJ version with a curved plate. I am not affiliated with John East, just love these pre's.
To install just attached the white pickup leads to hot, black to ground via the screw terminals shown below and run the black ground to the bridge or attach it to the existing lead from the bridge. Then plug in the battery, position it flat in the location shown and screw the plate back into place. Done!
yea yea yea....bet you get a nice monthly "gift" from the East company Bart.
Naw just kidding man...
I must admit, I like the fact that a tech dummy like me could just plop it in place hassle free.
yea yea yea....bet you get a nice monthly "gift" from the East company Bart.
Naw just kidding man...
I must admit, I like the fact that a tech dummy like me could just plop it in place hassle free.
I wish! These things aren't cheap, but they do the trick for me.
Hey no self deprecation here, you're not a tech dummy - your just... what's the PC equivalent? Luddite? No too harsh. New fangled thingamabob challenged, yeah that's it!
EDIT: Can't wait for the day to drop one of these bad boys into a Lakland, hmmm....
"Self deprecation"?
naw man, just honestly...LMAO
Seriously, I run from tech stuff...
But this looks like even IIIIIIIII Could handle it
These are certainly top shelf pre's. I have tried several brands over the years and these are certainly the most versatile and 'usuable' pre-amps I have tried, especially with passive pick-ups. I now have them in both my DJ5's. And the man himself is a nice guy as well and willing to directly communicate with the user. and, yup, super-easy to install. Just be aware of the potential DJ fit issue I detailed earlier in this thread. It is a known issue.There was some talk a few days ago about pre's so thought I would share a quick pic of the J-retro I just got to show how easy they are to install - no soldering skills needed.
I'll preface this by saying that I have been accused on more than one occasion of over thinking or obsessing on some things and this may very well be the solution to a problem that doesn't exist. But this is the one area on Lakland basses that has always just bothered me. And, now that I own a couple of them, I think this one area just does not do any justice to the quality that is evident in every other aspect of their instruments. The area I speak of is the string tree. I brought this up a few weeks ago and since then have been thinking of a couple things that might improve it a bit. I thought I'd have a little fun to see what I could come up with. So here goes.
The problem as I see it: Naked, spindly, unsightly & crooked screws and a bar that can be slopping all over the place on string changes.
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So I am thinking that a simple standoff would solve all these issues and create a solid platform to sung the screws against while providing a nice cosmetic cover. I picked up a couple styles of plastic spacers at a local ACE for prototypes. Plastic is easy to work with, form and fit. Ideally I would prefer them to be aluminum. That way they match perfectly and would look like it came that way.
Here's my work in progress.
1) Black Plastic with a bit of a 'platform/pedestal':
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And a white, straight tube version:
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The gaps that are seen in the pics of the white ones are not quite as noticeable in person and could be completely eliminated by contouring them with a few passes with a round file. They really do improve the stability of the bar, for whatever that's worth. And my initial thoughts on the plastic vs. aluminum are that they are easy to create (gorilla hands and small parts can be tricky) and are non-marring to the finish (should I take them off there's no evidence they were ever installed where aluminum could leave some markings). And, FWIW, I think it took me longer to create this post than to create these parts...
And I swear it improves the sustain!!!!
The problem as I see it: Naked, spindly, unsightly & crooked screws and a bar that can be slopping all over the place on string changes.
Link Removed
Link Removed
So I am thinking that a simple standoff would solve all these issues and create a solid platform to sung the screws against while providing a nice cosmetic cover. I picked up a couple styles of plastic spacers at a local ACE for prototypes. Plastic is easy to work with, form and fit. Ideally I would prefer them to be aluminum. That way they match perfectly and would look like it came that way.
Here's my work in progress.
1) Black Plastic with a bit of a 'platform/pedestal':
Link Removed
Link Removed
And a white, straight tube version:
Link Removed
Link Removed
The gaps that are seen in the pics of the white ones are not quite as noticeable in person and could be completely eliminated by contouring them with a few passes with a round file. They really do improve the stability of the bar, for whatever that's worth. And my initial thoughts on the plastic vs. aluminum are that they are easy to create (gorilla hands and small parts can be tricky) and are non-marring to the finish (should I take them off there's no evidence they were ever installed where aluminum could leave some markings). And, FWIW, I think it took me longer to create this post than to create these parts...
And I swear it improves the sustain!!!!
Yep, John is quite a good chap and nice guy to deal with.
EDIT: BTW this is going on my new Fretless VJ
I know it's ugly, but what about the tubing used for p-bass pickups? This could provide some "tension" depending on how long you cut it. I'm sure you could find similar tubing in black as well or white.
Sure, as a basic means of covering the threads. I was also considering some simple heat shrink as well. This route offered me a bit of structure & strength as well.
Just got to watch this on my bose equipped main PC...wow! nince riffin!
looks like you are having a really good time as well (after about a minute or so!)....
again - way to go....
looks like you are having a really good time as well (after about a minute or so!)....
again - way to go....
I had a J-retro that started in my DJ4 - moved to my DJ5 and then went to the blue DJ CHIsonic that Dan has now...not sure WHERE it ended up...BUT I loved it alot!!!
as i said Brian...may end up with one in my US PJ5er...
as i said Brian...may end up with one in my US PJ5er...
There was some talk a few days ago about pre's so thought I would share a quick pic of the J-retro I just got to show how easy they are to install - no soldering skills needed.
The model shown in the picture is the standard version, there is also a deluxe with 4 knobs with a side jack input and a DJ version with a curved plate. I am not affiliated with John East, just love these pre's.
To install just attached the white pickup leads to hot, black to ground via the screw terminals shown below and run the black ground to the bridge or attach it to the existing lead from the bridge. Then plug in the battery, position it flat in the location shown and screw the plate back into place. Done!
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