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Lakland Owners Group #54

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Nervous:

GREAT thought! I am not sure you want a "permanent" cover since the tree may need adjusting once in a blue moon...but GREAT ideas!

send the pics and idea to: [email protected] and [email protected] and see what they say!!! you may really be onto something or maybe they will tell you why they do not do it....

you never know, this may become known as the "Nervous accessory"....something about that just does not sound "right"....hmmmm...maybe have to rethink the name..


Sure, as a basic means of covering the threads. I was also considering some simple heat shrink as well. This route offered me a bit of structure & strength as well.
 
basspraiser said:
I had a J-retro that started in my DJ4 - moved to my DJ5 and then went to the blue DJ CHIsonic that Dan has now...not sure WHERE it ended up...BUT I loved it alot!!!

as i said Brian...may end up with one in my US PJ5er...

Doug, that DJ-Retro is now down in Brazil with a black DJ5 that has switched owners 3 times since I sold it. :)
 
Nervous:

GREAT thought! I am not sure you want a "permanent" cover since the tree may need adjusting once in a blue moon...but GREAT ideas!

send the pics and idea to: [email protected] and [email protected] and see what they say!!! you may really be onto something or maybe they will tell you why they do not do it....

you never know, this may become known as the "Nervous accessory"....something about that just does not sound "right"....hmmmm...maybe have to rethink the name..
Thanks all for the kind words. I actually think I want to try an aluminum version as well at some point. Just have to locate some stock. I actually think there already aluminum stand-offs of the correct size ready made, which would make this whole thing a very simple, no fuss, drop in deal. I just need to do a little searching. If that comes out right I'll pass it along.
 
The only thing that has ever bothered me about the 5er string retainer bar is that it's arced and the screws go into the headstock at angles (11 o'clock and 1 o'clock) WHICH makes bar height adjustment (string downforce across the nut) nearly impossible. The bar SHOULD be arced, but the screws should go straight thru the bar and enter the headstock at a 90 degree angle.
 
Also Nervous...

You're nut slots should only be about half to 3/4 as deep as the diameter of the string that rests in them. It helps the strings move more freely across the nut during tuning. I'd file or sand your nuts down at least on the treble side. That's one thing that some of the Skylines are lacking sometimes.
 
Also Nervous...

You're nut slots should only be about half to 3/4 as deep as the diameter of the string that rests in them. It helps the strings move more freely across the nut during tuning. I'd file or sand your nuts down at least on the treble side. That's one thing that some of the Skylines are lacking sometimes.

Thanks for pointing this out. I'll clean this up at some point.
 
JEDI BASS said:
Also Nervous...

You're nut slots should only be about half to 3/4 as deep as the diameter of the string that rests in them. It helps the strings move more freely across the nut during tuning. I'd file or sand your nuts down at least on the treble side. That's one thing that some of the Skylines are lacking sometimes.

Interesting as mine are cut so deep as to not be able to feel the strings at all when you rub you finger across the nut. I'm using 45-105's.
 
There was at least one LOG bass that was converted to a P/J as well (seen it recently in the classifieds).

And then there was Gus' conversion of a JJ to a P/J. I owned that one for 5 minutes.
 
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