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Nope, birdseye is NOT from a fungus, that's burl I believe.
EBMM has used birdseye for necks and boards for many years w/ no issues. I've had several and still have a couple all birdseye necks, one of which is my stiffest ever, but that's more due to the steel reinforcement bars which I prefer over carbon. Quartersawn is considered more stable, but w/ reinforcement bars and a good moisture barrier, any quality maple blank (birdseye, flame, etc) can make a strong neck.
I've had several and still have a couple all birdseye necks, one of which is my stiffest ever, but that's more due to the steel reinforcement bars which I prefer over carbon.
Do you really believe you can tell the difference??????????
How do you judge/grade the stiffness of an individual neck?
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Yes, I can feel (maybe hear--- it's hard to say) the difference when I play a bass w/ a heavier (steel rods) and stiffer neck.
It's easy to judge a neck's stiffness. Strap on your bass and pretend you're Billy Sheehan: hit the open A string (or any string) then reach up w/ your plucking hand and grab the end of the headstock while holding the bass' body stable w/ your other hand. Pull on the headstock (flexing the neck) and you'll hear the note drop in pitch. This is the way Billy made a tremolo effect. Stiff necks won't flex as much, obviously.
Brian at the Lowend once told me that close action is just as much the product of a stiff neck (that doesn't flex during the tension changes that occur during the plucking of a note) as it is precise fretwork. I've tested this many times since, and he's right. My stiffer necked basses can get lower buzz-free action.
Finally had my 1st band rehearsal with my 55-02 Deluxe and I am blown away. The LH3 and Hanson pups are 'The Bomb'. Just as nice as the Bartolinis, maybe better. I'd have to do a side-by-side comparison, but it isn't necessary. The LH3 has excellent tonal range and values.