• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Lakland Owners Group #66

Status
Not open for further replies.
#522
I have done a search and found a little bit about the topic but I wanted to ask if anyone has replaced the stock USA Lakland preamp on the 55-94 with the newer Lakland pickups? I have I guess a newer 55-95 because it does not have the Barts it has the newer Lakland pickups. I have a rosewood fingerboard and I’m not sure if this is the reason but I find it boomy and super fat huge on the bottom but lacking in the upper mids and highs.

Has anyone else felt this way and replaced the preamp with say a Bart 918 or something else with desirable results or similar to what I am looking for? Any help would be appreciated I love the bass and it plays amazing and would like to use it more but my Lull with maple fingerboard and singles and Bart preamp is crushing it in the “bite” area. I know apples and oranges but want to go more in that direction if possible…
 
#523
Means2nEnd said:
I have done a search and found a little bit about the topic but I wanted to ask if anyone has replaced the stock USA Lakland preamp on the 55-94 with the newer Lakland pickups? I have I guess a newer 55-95 because it does not have the Barts it has the newer Lakland pickups. I have a rosewood fingerboard and I’m not sure if this is the reason but I find it boomy and super fat huge on the bottom but lacking in the upper mids and highs.

Has anyone else felt this way and replaced the preamp with say a Bart 918 or something else with desirable results or similar to what I am looking for? Any help would be appreciated I love the bass and it plays amazing and would like to use it more but my Lull with maple fingerboard and singles and Bart preamp is crushing it in the “bite” area. I know apples and oranges but want to go more in that direction if possible…
Click to expand...

Personally, I prefer the Bart Pre and pups. It's just more my sound
 
#524
Sounds like it should have the LH3 preamp, which as DIP switches on it to adjust mids response. Have you experimented with the variations on that? You might find the tones you are looking for.
 
#525
Holdsg said:
Sounds like it should have the LH3 preamp, which as DIP switches on it to adjust mids response. Have you experimented with the variations on that? You might find the tones you are looking for.
Click to expand...

I have but not extensively I will try some more today. I am using steal strings as well. I have found as a guy who has replaced countless times preamps and pickups that many times it's in vein and I didn't want to go down that road if it wasn't going to yield much difference. It doesn't look like an easy job the boards are mounted to the pots by Velcro or glue or something and would be an ass-pain it seems. I have had better luck getting "my tone" on 5 string basses with tighter harder fingerboard woods like maple and ebony even though I like rosewood. I don't want to open up a does wood matter issue I think it does and it doesn't it depends on so many variables but I'm speaking in general terms I guess...
 
#526
overbybr said:
Anyone here removed their through body string ferrules for a refin? Any recommendations?
Click to expand...

If it's going for a refin, then you don't necessarily have to worry about chipping, assuming it's going to Pat - he'll just fix them.

I've used a good hardened steel screw driver that fits in the string holes from the top side, and tapped them out using a dead blow hammer. You can place the body in your lap, but I've found putting the body on some 3" egg crate foam works great and provides little pockets to collect the ferrules.

Another method is to use an old drill bit that is a little larger than the ferrule hole. Reverse it into the ferrule from the back so it grabs the ferrule and then rock it back and forth very slightly as you pull.

If you have a set of punches around, you could use one that fits in the string hole on the front IF the ferrule hole is a smaller diameter. I've run into scenarios where the ferrule hole is the same size as the string holes on the front of the body - then the screw driver works better.

I've read of people heating them first carefully using a soldering iron, but that was if they are glued in.

Lastly, if you're sending it in for a refin, don't forget the neck ferrules. Those can be even trickier since they're recessed without a lip and the hole is the same diameter as the hole through the wood to the neck pocket. Again the drill bit trick can work, but I've had the best luck and least amount of damage using a square or round file. Carefully tap the file into the ferrule from the back and then twist and pull it out. Again take your time and don't force it. If you do chip the wood, don't freak out - Pat will fix it.

Hope that helps and good luck.
 
#532
ImageUploadedByTalkBass1381820340.134083.jpgThis is my 4-94.
 
#535
Kinetic Shadow said:
If it's going for a refin, then you don't necessarily have to worry about chipping, assuming it's going to Pat - he'll just fix them.

I've used a good hardened steel screw driver that fits in the string holes from the top side, and tapped them out using a dead blow hammer. You can place the body in your lap, but I've found putting the body on some 3" egg crate foam works great and provides little pockets to collect the ferrules.

Another method is to use an old drill bit that is a little larger than the ferrule hole. Reverse it into the ferrule from the back so it grabs the ferrule and then rock it back and forth very slightly as you pull.

If you have a set of punches around, you could use one that fits in the string hole on the front IF the ferrule hole is a smaller diameter. I've run into scenarios where the ferrule hole is the same size as the string holes on the front of the body - then the screw driver works better.

I've read of people heating them first carefully using a soldering iron, but that was if they are glued in.

Lastly, if you're sending it in for a refin, don't forget the neck ferrules. Those can be even trickier since they're recessed without a lip and the hole is the same diameter as the hole through the wood to the neck pocket. Again the drill bit trick can work, but I've had the best luck and least amount of damage using a square or round file. Carefully tap the file into the ferrule from the back and then twist and pull it out. Again take your time and don't force it. If you do chip the wood, don't freak out - Pat will fix it.

Hope that helps and good luck.
Click to expand...



JEDI BASS said:
Marty Bell removed and reinstalled my stingray's ferrules, no charge.
Click to expand...


I sent it out to Pat yesterday with the ferrules in place. Hopefully he'll decide to just pop them out for me. Thanks anyways though!
 
#539
overbybr said:
I sent it out to Pat yesterday with the ferrules in place. Hopefully he'll decide to just pop them out for me. Thanks anyways though!
Click to expand...

No worries, just thought the info might be helpful to others as well. And yes, Pat will take care of it. I sent one body in that had some particularly stuck neck ferrules and I didn't want to risk major damage, so he removed them.
 
#540
Means2nEnd said:
I have done a search and found a little bit about the topic but I wanted to ask if anyone has replaced the stock USA Lakland preamp on the 55-94 with the newer Lakland pickups? …
Click to expand...

I replaced the Barts in my 55-94 with the Lakland/Hanson pickups and preamp. To my ears, the sound is a bit tighter with all controls set flat and is not as bass-prevalent. I like this a bit better but YMMV. Both sets provide great sound.

Dan K.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back