Nice! I have one as well. Many here mod theirs as I did also. Love mine but I changed pups and pre.
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My head is exploding right now. Are you saying that the part where the neck overlaps with the body does not have any curvature?
I rarely have neck throughs, and to be honest, when I plan whatever bass I’m repairing I can feel if the action it can tolerate, later I adjust for the player who owns it.
The caliper method is a game changer, I use the Lakland settings for pickup heights, they are just about perfect and there’s no need to press the string down (either way you get about 3mm).
It makes the entire process very fast, and I know fairly fast if I need to shim or do other extra things.
I don’t use a caliper when cutting not slots, that’s just feel.
The overarching point is that each bass seems to have a sweet spot for relief and saddle height where it sounds just right acoustically, then I adjust slightly for comfort.
Bartolini MK-1 pickups and a Bartolini preamp.
Have you guys watched Family Switch on Netflix yet?
There's a Lakland sighting! Scott Shriner with a Dark Star 44-64:
There's a Lakland sighting! Scott Shriner with a Dark Star 44-64:
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That's what I'm saying
The heel of the neck will not be affected by the truss rod because it's bolted down.
OK, I need to understand this method better. You measure the diameter (or width as you refer) of the chosen string, in this case an E, so lets say that is a normal .095 diameter, or 2.143mm, then leaving the caliper set to that, you zero then open an additional 1.22mm (.048") so those two measurements then added together, .095 + .048 = .143 becomes the reference distance from the top of the E string to the top of the top of which fret, the last? Then the saddles or truss rod is used to match that measurement? What are you doing with the first fret in the 'first fret/last fret' method?
I know this just another path to the same destination but just one I have not heard of. And I agree 100% that each guitar or bass has a place it will happily settle into and a little past that just won't work well. Just about every Skyline 5 string I have owned has been able to achieve a 5/64 B string to 4/64 G string 12th 'action' height. Some fight a bit getting there, even my recent fretless J-Sonic, but it's consistent enough across the many models I have owned that it's become my personal preference for playability. If a bass can't get to that it doesn't stay.
For me the whole 'set-up' procedure is so straightforward and repeatable it's second nature now, unless you run into fret issues, which for me have been very rare. That is more critical and obvious on my guitars than basses and a light level, recrown and polish in those cases works wonders.
Hmm, never thought of it this wayThat's what I'm saying
The heel of the neck will not be affected by the truss rod because it's bolted down.
So y'all remember that LOG bass I linked to about 4 months ago? Well, I gotta come clean.
I bought a modified LOG several years ago from a local bass player friend of mine who needed some cash after I lusted after his for years. The owner prior to him had swapped the blocked neck for a standard dot so I contacted him to see if I could reunite the parts but he told me he sold the bass that he put the LOG neck on. Dead end. But it looked and played great.
My friend loved this bass so in my mind it was always his bass and I treated it as such and took extra good care of it. Partially because unbeknownst to him, his parents offered to buy it back if I ever sold it so they could surprise him. Well, when this other one popped up, I did just that. Back in September.
This new (to me) one is immaculate. And it has the LOG serial number.
I don't know what strings it came with but it sounds so good that I haven't changed them (which is unusual for me). The kicker is they're toploaded and I am a firm believer in thru the body but what can you do? When it sounds good, don't mess with it!
And while I think the maple blocked versions look a bit better, I am ecstatic to have an official one and will treat it as such. Oh, and it pairs nicely with my other 55-64.
And while I've not heard whether my friend has found it yet (his parents had a sneaky plan that required that he pay attention), I feel better knowing it's back with it's rightful owner. Hopefully I'm not letting the cat outta the bag but four months! C'mon!
I bought a modified LOG several years ago from a local bass player friend of mine who needed some cash after I lusted after his for years. The owner prior to him had swapped the blocked neck for a standard dot so I contacted him to see if I could reunite the parts but he told me he sold the bass that he put the LOG neck on. Dead end. But it looked and played great.
My friend loved this bass so in my mind it was always his bass and I treated it as such and took extra good care of it. Partially because unbeknownst to him, his parents offered to buy it back if I ever sold it so they could surprise him. Well, when this other one popped up, I did just that. Back in September.
This new (to me) one is immaculate. And it has the LOG serial number.
I don't know what strings it came with but it sounds so good that I haven't changed them (which is unusual for me). The kicker is they're toploaded and I am a firm believer in thru the body but what can you do? When it sounds good, don't mess with it!
And while I think the maple blocked versions look a bit better, I am ecstatic to have an official one and will treat it as such. Oh, and it pairs nicely with my other 55-64.
And while I've not heard whether my friend has found it yet (his parents had a sneaky plan that required that he pay attention), I feel better knowing it's back with it's rightful owner. Hopefully I'm not letting the cat outta the bag but four months! C'mon!
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I have the same one I got from my fellow TBr, it plays like butter my forever #1 would love a sunburst one.
Great story. I had a refinished LOG bass a few years back (purple metal flake in a P/J format) and it was HEAVY! But I am a big fan as it sits in your case. Congrats.
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Speaking of top loading mine is top loaded as well, seems to make the strings sit nice, tight and low... I have NYXL on mine but thinking stainless in the future
I’m not sure that it really matters much, unless you’re using flats. Most flats can’t handle the break angle of through body stringing. If I have a bass that allows for through body, I do it. I spent a lot of time back in the late 90s/early 2000s trying different strings and stringings on my Fender P that offers both. Using the same strings, I couldn’t tell a difference.
I could especially with the B string, I wonder if anyone here has done any research into it.
Most folks say there is no discernible difference between the tone or feel of top load vs thru body. I think most folks are correct
Exactly, but I have
Exactly right.
The emphasis here is that my target for any E string is about 1.22mm from the bottom of the string to the last fret.
The rest are A = 1.12mm, D = 1.26mm and G = 1.25.
First and last fret is to determine relief at the 7th fret. Like the capo method, but you don’t need a capo.
I’d say about 8/10 basses I work on can get that setup, but the rest have fret issues up farther on the neck.
