Lakland Owners Group #69

[Thom Fioriglio]

Maybe I’m biased, but I think these videos are great for explaining set ups…

I still go back and watch these every now and then. Extremely helpful and well explained. And done very differently than the way Fender recommends it. Which is what I had before I got my Laklands.

 

[basspraiser]

Just bought some tools. Trying to get out of my comfort zone as far as set up and adjustments.

And you have JJ nearby for guidance!

 

[basspraiser]

I still go back and watch these every now and then. Extremely helpful and well explained. And done very differently than the way Fender recommends it. Which is what I had before I got my Laklands.

Thank you to the LOGs John J ( not JJ!) for making those great videos years back....Carl looks young!

 

[basspraiser]

 

[MaxSpinrun]

And you have JJ nearby for guidance!

Yes, we have JJ, but I hate to ask, feel like I’m a newbie bugging him. He’s busy usually being the mad scientist in his music lab with his creations, LOL, and I mean that in the best way.
Carl’s videos are great. I visit them from time to time.
Just need to learn this stuff for myself.

There are just times I would rather have JJ’s advise, expertise and knowledge in doing the work because I know he is a perfectionist.

 

[JEDI BASS]

Yes, we have JJ, but I hate to ask, feel like I’m a newbie bugging him. He’s busy usually being the mad scientist in his music lab with his creations, LOL, and I mean that in the best way.
Carl’s videos are great. I visit them from time to time.
Just need to learn this stuff for myself.

There are just times I would rather have JJ’s advise, expertise and knowledge in doing the work because I know he is a perfectionist.

I wish I could create time in my “lab”!! I love helping and teaching more than anything, but rarely have any spare time.

I’ll try to get with you asap after the holidays, Max.

 

[MaxSpinrun]

MUCH APPRECIATED BRUH!

 

[MaxSpinrun]

I think I have just about all of the tools I need for setup. I need to get the 18 inch precision straight edge and the feeler gauge that Carl mentions in his vids.

Any body have a suggested list of essential tools, or your favorites?

 

[Stranger Danger]

I think I have just about all of the tools I need for setup. I need to get the 18 inch precision straight edge and the feeler gauge that Carl mentions in his vids.

Any body have a suggested list of essential tools, or your favorites?

Wish I could help you

I only do setups for myself so I do it by feel and get as low as I can go without buzz and all the notes ring out. I never measure anything.

The key part for me and this method is to do a little at a time, play for a while and do a little more until it’s dialed in just right.

I am sure there’s a faster method if you’re going for a specific number

 

[Jamvan]

I think I have just about all of the tools I need for setup. I need to get the 18 inch precision straight edge and the feeler gauge that Carl mentions in his vids.

Any body have a suggested list of essential tools, or your favorites?

Just my opinion but there’s no need for a straight edge for setups as the string is going to be the straightest thing you need. Capo the first fret and hold down the B and G strings at the 15-17 fret and use the feeler gauge to check the neck relief at the 6th-8th frets.

Essential tools are:

1. Relief gauge to measure neck relief. I shoot for .012-.014.

2. String height gauge. I shoot for 6/64-8/64 depending on the bass. (I play hard)

3. Pickup height gauge (6/64-8/64)

4. Stubby Allen wrench seT to adjust truss rod (stubby works really well for body side truss adjustments.)

This will cover 99% of what you need to use to setup and maintain your bass.

I typically don’t do ouch beyond these adjustments to keep my basses in playing condition.

Get after it!

 

[MaxSpinrun]

Just received the string action gauge. I agree about the stubbie Allen wrenches. Also bought the StewMac screwdriver/ bit driver set. A lot of useful things in a small convenient carry case.

Now I have to dive in and get after it!

 

[Johnny Alien]

Just my opinion but there’s no need for a straight edge for setups as the string is going to be the straightest thing you need. Capo the first fret and hold down the B and G strings at the 15-17 fret and use the feeler gauge to check the neck relief at the 6th-8th frets.

While I won't disagree that a straightedge is not a required tool I WILL say that my setups got infinitely better and more consistent when I got one. The string as a straightedge trick works but its not as accurate in my experience. Its the one tool I wish I had gotten earlier.

 

[macribas]

I've watched all those videos and he doesn't even detune to adjust the truss rod, of course he loosens it I believe

Does anyone?

EDIT: Sorry, just now reading the messages after Christmas. Never did that, never had issues, but it's good to learn that some people do. Thanks for sharing!

 

[JB Player]

What was there to set up? It has been plekkd. Takes 2 seconds to adjust the trust rod.

This is true and what I love about Laklands - although it happened only once where there were issues with a new lakie, I appreciate my local dealer taking the time to fully inspect and making adjustments to my preferred spec - I am looking forward to picking up this week! Happy Holidays to all!

 

[cxcxcx]

While I won't disagree that a straightedge is not a required tool I WILL say that my setups got infinitely better and more consistent when I got one. The string as a straightedge trick works but its not as accurate in my experience. Its the one tool I wish I had gotten earlier.

Agreed - the straightedge is not universally accepted as the best method and using a string for a straight line does work, but there’s no “maybe” or “close enough” with a straightedge.

I like the repeatability and assured accuracy the straightedge allows but I’ve seen excellent end results achieved with both methods. Unlike the string bar debacle, there’s no downside to either method in this case.

 

[Bass Ape]

I prefer to use the string and a feeler gauge. This gets me all the way there, all the time.

 

[MattLplaysBass]

Agreed - the straightedge is not universally accepted as the best method and using a string for a straight line does work, but there’s no “maybe” or “close enough” with a straightedge.

I like the repeatability and assured accuracy the straightedge allows but I’ve seen excellent end results achieved with both methods. Unlike the string bar debacle, there’s no downside to either method in this case.

“debacle” …

And I disagree- if the string method works well, you have no excuse to buy a straightedge

 

[MrUsefulAlien]

I think I have just about all of the tools I need for setup. I need to get the 18 inch precision straight edge and the feeler gauge that Carl mentions in his vids.

Any body have a suggested list of essential tools, or your favorites?

I set up all of my basses, and a lot of guitars and basses of local pros in Vienna.
If I have to do a basic setup, there are really only a handful of tools I need, and most have been covered here.

1. Set of hex/allen keys
2. Chinese-made mini screw driver set with ratchet function, and 18 bits or so.
3. Wire cutters/pliers
3. A very good tuner for intonation (I use a Korg GT120)
4. Digital Caliper

That's for the basics, without cleaning/oiling/polishing supplies, soldering etc.

The digital caliper is my breakthrough tool of the last 2 years.
I found a standardized distance from string to last fret that gets me right in the ballpark of a perfect setup, accounting for radius and string thickness.

For example, I measure the E string, it will be a certain width in millimeter. Then I zero the caliper, and set the new distance to 1.22mm. No matter the thickness of the string, I will always have a set distance under it when I measure from the top of the string to the top of the fretwire.

I use the same method for getting a rough pickup height, and I fine tune.

I've charted these distances for reference, and then I adjust bass by bass, since not all frets are perfect, and certain string types benefit from higher or lower action.

I adjust the neck relief to be almost flat, using the first fret last fret method, then loosen or tighten until the string resonates just right, towards the end of the setup. There is a sweet spot where you can hear that a certain type of action is right for that specific instrument.

 

[Ignite]

Hey guys, I’ve had a wonderful 44-01 for about 7 years now. It was the first bass I had that sounded like a bass unplugged, and that’s with so-called subpar stock pickups and preamp. Very natural sounding. I believe the pickups are Bart MK’s? Not sure of the preamp, fishman comes to mind but I could be wrong. Anywho, pic or it doesn’t exist right-

 

[Bass Ape]

I set up all of my basses, and a lot of guitars and basses of local pros in Vienna.
If I have to do a basic setup, there are really only a handful of tools I need, and most have been covered here.

1. Set of hex/allen keys
2. Chinese-made mini screw driver set with ratchet function, and 18 bits or so.
3. Wire cutters/pliers
3. A very good tuner for intonation (I use a Korg GT120)
4. Digital Caliper

That's for the basics, without cleaning/oiling/polishing supplies, soldering etc.

The digital caliper is my breakthrough tool of the last 2 years.
I found a standardized distance from string to last fret that gets me right in the ballpark of a perfect setup, accounting for radius and string thickness.

For example, I measure the E string, it will be a certain width in millimeter. Then I zero the caliper, and set the new distance to 1.22mm. No matter the thickness of the string, I will always have a set distance under it when I measure from the top of the string to the top of the fretwire.

I use the same method for getting a rough pickup height, and I fine tune.

I've charted these distances for reference, and then I adjust bass by bass, since not all frets are perfect, and certain string types benefit from higher or lower action.

I adjust the neck relief to be almost flat, using the first fret last fret method, then loosen or tighten until the string resonates just right, towards the end of the setup. There is a sweet spot where you can hear that a certain type of action is right for that specific instrument.

Are you using first fret last fret on neck thru? On a bolt on, I would assume you would use the fret where the neck first connects to the body. Otherwise the last fret would be beneath the flat area where the neck is connected to the body pocket.

The caliper method sounds really interesting BTW.