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Lakland Owners Group #69

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Recently spotted an '09 MIK 44-02 online. It has a trussrod spoke wheel similar to an MM Stingray. Was this part of the original MIK design, then later went with the hex adjust nut?
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Recently spotted an '09 MIK 44-02 online. It has a trussrod spoke wheel similar to an MM Stingray. Was this part of the original MIK design, then later went with the hex adjust nut?
View attachment 7296039

Never seen a Skyline like that before.... and the pickups don't appear to have any branding either - neither Bartolini or 'Lakland USA'. Is it a fake, or a possible mod/photoshop job?
 
I actually think its a "Skyline Japan Series". Despite the name they are made in China at one of the Chinese ESP factories. I have never played one but they use generic hardware and electronics and are considered to be the lowest Lakland tier. Several people on TB have played/own them and have said they are nice but personally I would not pay anywhere close to what a used Indo or Korean Skyline would sell for.
 
I know it's been asked many times and I've done my search work..... but.... what are the current steel string recommendations for the Lakland 55-94?

I guess I prefer string through, but that is not essential. Tapered B through the bridge maybe? My new 55-94 came with presumably Lakland strings with red silk but I can't find those anywhere. Is there an equivalent out there? Or other strings that fit well and sound good. A bass mentor suggested D Addario Pro Steel XL and DR Lo Rider Hex Core.
 
I know it's been asked many times and I've done my search work..... but.... what are the current steel string recommendations for the Lakland 55-94?

I guess I prefer string through, but that is not essential. Tapered B through the bridge maybe? My new 55-94 came with presumably Lakland strings with red silk but I can't find those anywhere. Is there an equivalent out there? Or other strings that fit well and sound good. A bass mentor suggested D Addario Pro Steel XL and DR Lo Rider Hex Core.

Lakland Custom Wounds.... right off the Lakland website. DR Strings are long enough to go thru body as well.
 
I know it's been asked many times and I've done my search work..... but.... what are the current steel string recommendations for the Lakland 55-94?

I guess I prefer string through, but that is not essential. Tapered B through the bridge maybe? My new 55-94 came with presumably Lakland strings with red silk but I can't find those anywhere. Is there an equivalent out there? Or other strings that fit well and sound good. A bass mentor suggested D Addario Pro Steel XL and DR Lo Rider Hex Core.
The red silk is nickel, the silver silk is steel.
 
Recently spotted an '09 MIK 44-02 online. It has a trussrod spoke wheel similar to an MM Stingray. Was this part of the original MIK design, then later went with the hex adjust nut?
View attachment 7296039

Never seen a Skyline like that before.... and the pickups don't appear to have any branding either - neither Bartolini or 'Lakland USA'. Is it a fake, or a possible mod/photoshop job?

I actually think its a "Skyline Japan Series". Despite the name they are made in China at one of the Chinese ESP factories. I have never played one but they use generic hardware and electronics and are considered to be the lowest Lakland tier. Several people on TB have played/own them and have said they are nice but personally I would not pay anywhere close to what a used Indo or Korean Skyline would sell for.
I will add that Skyline production switched over from Korea to Indonesia in late 2008. I visited the shop then and the first run of MIIs--the first run of Skyline Decades--had just come in.
 
I know it's been asked many times and I've done my search work..... but.... what are the current steel string recommendations for the Lakland 55-94?

I guess I prefer string through, but that is not essential. Tapered B through the bridge maybe? My new 55-94 came with presumably Lakland strings with red silk but I can't find those anywhere. Is there an equivalent out there? Or other strings that fit well and sound good. A bass mentor suggested D Addario Pro Steel XL and DR Lo Rider Hex Core.
I've been playing Dunlop on my 55-94 with good results. They make tapered sets with 125 or 130mm B strings. Stainless or nickel. I've used both extensively and they're the closest to the Lakland strings that I've found. You can buy them direct from Dunlop STANDARD SERIES NICKEL WOUND TAPERED BASS STRINGS 45-125 | 5-STRING

They are a little shorter than the Lakland strings. I always top load them because of this. I can't hear nor can I feel a difference with top loading vs string thru.
 
Hi Lakland lovers !

Just wanted to introduce this Cherry Sunburst 55 94 bad boy which has gone through a lifting! It still has the stock Bart pups for now and used to have the NTMB L.
Wanted to experiment a new preamp : Gregory preamp.

G-BP3A 3 band
  • Volume active passive push pull
  • Tone control working in both passive and active mode
  • Blend
  • bass 40Hz +/-15dB (stacked with treble)
  • treble 6.5kHz +/-15dB (stacked with bass)
  • mid +/-9dB 400Hz/600Hz/800hz frequencies switched by microswitch inside the cavity
  • An additional microswitch enables the emulation mode of a 5m Fender cable, which allows you to change the character of the sound of the pickups.
  • an additional +10 dB Gain trimmer inside the cavity
  • Wired 18v
The end result is pretty interesting although I find it lost a bit of its original growl but much more precision/cleaner. Low B was already solid but with this preamp it’s even better.
600hz freq is my go to now. It’s doing something that 250 or 400 don’t do!
Check this preamp out!

But now I might go for another lifting with Barts all the way :
NTMB FL + B Axis J / B axis exclusive MM.
Same setup on the NTMB FL but with 250 and 600hz now. Targeting to get close to the J Raines Saratoga which is 400 and 800.

Is this a good move ? Thoughts ?
Thanks
 
Hi Lakland lovers !

Just wanted to introduce this Cherry Sunburst 55 94 bad boy which has gone through a lifting! It still has the stock Bart pups for now and used to have the NTMB L.
Wanted to experiment a new preamp : Gregory preamp.

G-BP3A 3 band
  • Volume active passive push pull
  • Tone control working in both passive and active mode
  • Blend
  • bass 40Hz +/-15dB (stacked with treble)
  • treble 6.5kHz +/-15dB (stacked with bass)
  • mid +/-9dB 400Hz/600Hz/800hz frequencies switched by microswitch inside the cavity
  • An additional microswitch enables the emulation mode of a 5m Fender cable, which allows you to change the character of the sound of the pickups.
  • an additional +10 dB Gain trimmer inside the cavity
  • Wired 18v
The end result is pretty interesting although I find it lost a bit of its original growl but much more precision/cleaner. Low B was already solid but with this preamp it’s even better.
600hz freq is my go to now. It’s doing something that 250 or 400 don’t do!
Check this preamp out!

But now I might go for another lifting with Barts all the way :
NTMB FL + B Axis J / B axis exclusive MM.
Same setup on the NTMB FL but with 250 and 600hz now. Targeting to get close to the J Raines Saratoga which is 400 and 800.

Is this a good move ? Thoughts ?
Thanks
Hey quick edit here :
A 3leaf anima Redbox is on the way to pair with the b axis pickups or Delano JMVC. I will be comparing it to NTMB FL + b axis
 
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I know it's been asked many times and I've done my search work..... but.... what are the current steel string recommendations for the Lakland 55-94?

I guess I prefer string through, but that is not essential. Tapered B through the bridge maybe? My new 55-94 came with presumably Lakland strings with red silk but I can't find those anywhere. Is there an equivalent out there? Or other strings that fit well and sound good. A bass mentor suggested D Addario Pro Steel XL and DR Lo Rider Hex Core.
I have a 55-94 once again, bought here a earlier this year. He had stainless strings on it and I prefer nickel. A few people recommended D’Addario XL extra long which are not taper core. I just had to adjust saddle heights and they’re great. The extra long 38” winding allows through-body but I don’t know if it makes any real difference.

Years ago I bought the nickel taper core sets right from Lakland but they haven’t been in stock since I’ve had this one.
 
For almost $10k, I’ll keep my JO916. I don’t think I’ve ever seen one with rear routing like this. The body contours look a lot smoother than current JOs as well. They’re also not shielded anymore. I believe the shielding stopped pretty early on with them to make them more “authentic” to the original 1960 it was modeled after.