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Lakland Owners Group #69

I do recall Lākland posting one on their Instagram a few months back. It was candy apple red, BEM fingerboard, and a tortoise shell pickguard. I'm a sucker for candy apple red. It looked killer. Here's some screenshots from their page
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Anyone on here ever own the Lakland USA P5, model 55-64? They seem quite rare, very little on-line information or users, which seems surprising. Also looking at the 35" Lull P5.
I had a BG5, #7, which was what it was called back then. It was a beauty, one I do regret selling, but such is the TB life :roflmao:


It may have had the best Lakland neck I've ever played, when I took it to Carl Pedigo to get set up, he said he may have made the neck, but we didn't take it apart to check. It did have a bit of neck dive though, but I use different straps now (LK leather) with grippy backs, so I'm sure that wouldn't be an issue. The upper horn doesn't hit the 12th fret, something I've noticed is a big contributor in neck dive, ime.

I also didn't "get" p basses then, now I have a F*nder Pino, which is amazing, so I think I'd have a better appreciation for that bass if I still had it… sigh…
 
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Hi Lakies Lovers,
I don't know if there are any electronics expert in here, but just taking my chance.
When I bought my pre owned 55-94 with stock Barts, I never really got into figuring out how it was wired, especially how the coil tap switch was wired.
When comparing the actual wiring from my cavity to the Lakland Wiring Diagram, I noticed it was non standard. Confirmed by Brian from Lakland. So the previous owner might have done something different there.

I have drawn a schematic of the actual wiring I had which btw was working well to me.
Would anyone be able to figure out what kind of config this is here please ?

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Below is a view from the cavity

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Old Glory bucked me this weekend for rejecting her over the past month and letting her get all rusty by breaking my D string mid set. I don't blame her. It's my fault for not inspecting/cleaning her before choosing to use her this weekend. Thankfully had my backup ready to go so nothing more than a 10 second swap out after I finished the song.

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Wipe down your gear after sweaty shows!
 
I have a few basses with glossy necks that I rub with green scotch bright pads to smooth them, as I really don't care for glossy necks and most of my basses have satin finishes which I really like. My Lakland 55-01 has always felt quasi-glossy - not quite glossy, not quite satin, somewhere inbetween. But it seems to be getting to the point of feeling much more glossy now, but on this bass I am hesitate to want to hit the neck with scotch brite pads for some reason. Any reason not to?
 
My recollection on the Skyline Decade is that orders were taken through Steve Barr of the Dudepit. But something happened with Barr, and after a delay Lakland stepped in and finished the job.

I'm just about certain that that run ended up being the first batch of Indonesian Skylines, I remember visiting the shop and the basses were there along with the not-completely-unpacked PLEK machine.
"a white Glaub with darkstar" yup! I regret selling that DPLE II!
 
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I have a few basses with glossy necks that I rub with green scotch bright pads to smooth them, as I really don't care for glossy necks and most of my basses have satin finishes which I really like. My Lakland 55-01 has always felt quasi-glossy - not quite glossy, not quite satin, somewhere inbetween. But it seems to be getting to the point of feeling much more glossy now, but on this bass I am hesitate to want to hit the neck with scotch brite pads for some reason. Any reason not to?

no reason at all.

once you do that, you're not that far off from taking all of the finish off and doing the Howards Feed and Wax method that Carl Pedigo used/uses on the USA Lakland necks.

Either way, I nearly always start with the Scotch Brite as a good first step.
 
Old Glory bucked me this weekend for rejecting her over the past month and letting her get all rusty by breaking my D string mid set. I don't blame her. It's my fault for not inspecting/cleaning her before choosing to use her this weekend. Thankfully had my backup ready to go so nothing more than a 10 second swap out after I finished the song.

View attachment 7302549

Wipe down your gear after sweaty shows!

Rode hard and put away wet. No shame in that.
 
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Would I be crazy to buy a second 55-14, in the same color just because I like the first one so much? I'd have a 55-02 and 2 55-14.

Planning selling off my G&L l-2500's

If you like it, do it. I recently bought a Lakland Hollowbody (Michael Tobias one not the 30" scale one) and immediately started watching for a second one. Never expected to like a 4 string bass that much.

Coincidentally the only bass I currently own two of is the L2500. I play them both.
 
Yes, it's called the Kitchen Table at home.
nah, my wife is cool, when I buy a bass she's more like "that's nice"
If you like it, do it. I recently bought a Lakland Hollowbody (Michael Tobias one not the 30" scale one) and immediately started watching for a second one. Never expected to like a 4 string bass that much.

Coincidentally the only bass I currently own two of is the L2500. I play them both.
I a regular l-2500 and a series 750 (19mm spacing).

I love my l-1000 s750's but I never gotten a single usable sound out of them other than neck pickup in series and if I'm being honest didn't care for it much either.

L-1000 I really only care for in "OMG" mode, just smoother sounding.
 
no reason at all.

once you do that, you're not that far off from taking all of the finish off and doing the Howards Feed and Wax method that Carl Pedigo used/uses on the USA Lakland necks.

Either way, I nearly always start with the Scotch Brite as a good first step.
Funny. I was at my local Guitar Center last week and they had a used USA Lakland P bass. It had a very raw wood feeling neck and I loved it. I don't even like 4 string bass necks but this neck I loved.