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Lakland Owners Group #69

If this has been discussed before can one of the wiser LOG members link me to it!!

Here is the question:

Is it difficult to add an active passive switch to a Bart HR-5.4/918? (Ideally I would like the setup on the Elrick E-volution)

The thing is I don't really care for push/pull pots. Not a big fan of stacked knobs either. Sorry don't mean to offend anyone just my thoughts, I could be wrong.
So back to the issue. I can solder fine, I got the skills to get it done I just don't know what wire goes where!


Try this...http://www.bestbassgear.com/wiring-diagrams/AP-BartoliniSwitch.pdf
 
Ok guys I figured my wiring question from yesterday, but I have another.

I'm gonig to install to mini switches (mid selector & active/passive)

Whats your opinion, should I put both between the blend and bass knobs? Or one between the volume and blend and one between the blend and bass knob?

I've never had switches of any kind on a bass, let alone trying to "fit" them in aftermarket. Some of you have them, I am sure, and I would appreciate some wisdom and some pro/con kinda stuff too

First you need to see how cramped the inside of your control cavity is. If you have room, would suggest the layout that Basspraiser has on his Double Buck Carlo. This is a smart layout. If they were horizontal, you would not be able to use the knobs as easily. Think ergonomically. Whereever you put them, make sure that the casing of the switch is not going to touch anything at all, thus causing a short. This is more common among people and you can imagine. If the space it tight and you still want it there, make your solder connections to the switch then use heat shrink around the casing of the switch to insulate it. I've done this on PBass pots in a tight cavity after shielding to prevent shorts.
 
First you need to see how cramped the inside of your control cavity is. If you have room, would suggest the layout that Basspraiser has on his Double Buck Carlo. This is a smart layout. If they were horizontal, you would not be able to use the knobs as easily. Think ergonomically. Whereever you put them, make sure that the casing of the switch is not going to touch anything at all, thus causing a short. This is more common among people and you can imagine. If the space it tight and you still want it there, make your solder connections to the switch then use heat shrink around the casing of the switch to insulate it. I've done this on PBass pots in a tight cavity after shielding to prevent shorts.

Thanks Tex! Great info.

I always just assume there is room wherever I want a switch or pot. Probably should open it up and plan a bit better.

One more question: Anybody sourced an identical switch to the one supplied with the Bart pre?
 
Carl says my P bass will be done on monday. Talk about one heck of a weekend! Getting married tomorrow and getting a bass on Monday! They're both keepers! :-)
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Carl says my P bass will be done on monday. Talk about one heck of a weekend! Getting married tomorrow and getting a bass on Monday! They're both keepers! :)View attachment 603479

Speaking as an older guy who has been married for 39 years - the one holding the bass neck ALWAYS comes first.

Wishing you two MANY happy years together.

Dan K.
 
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Carl says my P bass will be done on monday. Talk about one heck of a weekend! Getting married tomorrow and getting a bass on Monday! They're both keepers! :)View attachment 603479

Congratulations!!


Speaking of getting basses, my DJ just showed up, and it's everything I could hope for! We had some nice weather yesterday, so I got a chance to shoot some photos.

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Sorry for the imcomplete post. I don't know how to put words with pics yet. But that Lakland is my Queen Bee. Coral Pink. I wanted that bass for about three years and wouldn't touch it because I couldn't afford it (still can't). I didn't touch it until a year before I actually bought her home. One day chance and opportunity lined up and I finally got her.
 
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