Oh. Ok. Thanks guys. I'll keep that in mind. I love the necks they produce. That's real good to know.
FF
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FF
Lakland necks are great, but Carlo necks have just a bit more special sauce to them in terms of comfort and playability IMHO. 
NBD! I picked up a Skyline DJ5 as a back up to my 5594! I'll get some pics up, but wow does this bass sound good. The weight is about equal, but the 5594 has a thinner neck. I really love the compound radius of the 5594, but something about that fat dj5 neck feels great!
On another note. Here is a vid of my 5594 in action. Rig is db659>crown xls2500>berg ae410. I'm running a diamond comp, too. Please let me know your thoughts!
On another note. Here is a vid of my 5594 in action. Rig is db659>crown xls2500>berg ae410. I'm running a diamond comp, too. Please let me know your thoughts!
Not a Lakie, but I finished a Pino Palladino clone that I had been building. I put Aguilar AP-60 pups in it and I'm very blown away by these pickups. I'd recommend them if you want that 60s sound. Here is a link to the thread I started in the pickups section.
Aguilar 4P-60 P-Bass pickups...WOW!!! | TalkBass.com
Here's a pic next to my Lakland Duck Dunn.
Aguilar 4P-60 P-Bass pickups...WOW!!! | TalkBass.com
Here's a pic next to my Lakland Duck Dunn.
I would hire your band in a heartbeat...great promo video...one of the best I have seen for a variety cover band.
and I want to be your keyboard player.
I got his fretless neck from a fellow TBer and had it installed on my 55-02. It is an amazing example of internationalism. Bass designed in US, made in Korea, fitted with an Indonesian neck and everything went smoothly.
I love the look and the feel. But I am not terribly impressed with white nylon tapes I put on. There is something missing in their sound and I can't exactly pinpoint what. They are brand new though, maybe they will sound better after awhile.
Which strings are you guys using with your fretless basses?
And for pics:
I love the look and the feel. But I am not terribly impressed with white nylon tapes I put on. There is something missing in their sound and I can't exactly pinpoint what. They are brand new though, maybe they will sound better after awhile.
Which strings are you guys using with your fretless basses?
And for pics:
What he said- you guys are great, and I am always impressed with your tasty/tasteful playing in all the capacities I've caught on TB. Totally not my style at all, but I have nothing but respect for artists that can convincingly pull off that kind of versatility without missing a beat!
Edit- oh yeah, and your Lakland sounds fantastic- so fat and warm, but still clear and driving without overpowering. Just what you want in that kind of setting
Sadowsky nickels - the fingerboard on my fretless is Diamondwood, so it is hardly marked by them. Playing fretless is addictive!Which strings are you guys using with your fretless basses?
And for pics:
Dan K.
Thanks a lot! To be honest, it's not totally my style either. I like all of the songs, but I'm kind of a wild child at heart and this is very regimented. This is not a complaint. I enjoy laying back and the paycheck keeps the kids fed and stuff!
I love my 5594 for the reasons you mentioned. It sits very nicely in the mix but is not obtrusive. Otoh, I am excited to see how the dj5 will sound in this mix!
Hey Doug,
I just realised I don't have a number for Lakland owners club here. Can I get one please.
I just realised I don't have a number for Lakland owners club here. Can I get one please.
Bummer of a NBD yesterday. Opened up my CAR 55-02 (from 2003 based on the aerial) and found a crack in the back of the neck. I'm going to shoot an email off to the folks at Lakland, but it looks like the truss rod anchor is actually pushing through the neck. The crack is actually raised slightly on either side.
What has me completely baffled is that the neck is perfectly straight and the bass plays great. I already contacted the seller and asked about a possible return, but a) he's claiming that the crack wasn't there when he shipped it (which I don't really believe because the crack appears to be a little dirty) b) I really like the bass. Anybody ever seen anything like this? It's the first time for me in almost 20 years of playing, including several working at a music store and doing tech work.
What has me completely baffled is that the neck is perfectly straight and the bass plays great. I already contacted the seller and asked about a possible return, but a) he's claiming that the crack wasn't there when he shipped it (which I don't really believe because the crack appears to be a little dirty) b) I really like the bass. Anybody ever seen anything like this? It's the first time for me in almost 20 years of playing, including several working at a music store and doing tech work.
If you can't get a refund, clean the crack out, fill it with Titebond, clamp it then finish sand it. The Titebond should stop further creep of the crack. This will at least prevent you from having to buy a new neck in the near future if ever.
That was my first stop - I already shot an e-mail with the pics over to Leo at Lakland. Every interaction I've had with them has been excellent, which I can't say for every other company I've dealt with.
Thanks for the suggestion. I'm encouraged because the neck seems both straight and stable, although I haven't tried to adjust the truss rod yet (since it doesnt' need adjustment). Either way, that seems like a pretty simple and straightforward fix.
The thing about the Titebond is that the actual bond is stronger than the strength of the wood. I've used it for headstock repairs on Martin's and Les Pauls and its very strong and most important, very stable.
Very interesting and I have never seen anything like that. I'd post this over in teh luthiers forum as well and get their opinions. My completely unqualified .02 is that because that appears to be pushing inside out and that there is not a wood joint there (as there would be in a 2 pc neck) my guess would be that whatever truss rod connection is under there, some sort of captive nut, whatever, has been forced at some time to the point of twisting and therefore creating an upward stress that has manifested this way. In that case I'd guess one would normally snap the truss rod but who knows. This would matter if you did the simple repair as recommended and then found after the fact the the truss rod was not functioning properly. Personally, (and i have been where you are) I'd take many detailed pics of that for your records and then perhaps very gently try the truss rod in both directions. If you can't get an easy 1/4 turn minimum in both directions then any future set ups will be difficult if not impossible.
And I'd do this before your dispute time runs out with eBay. But, if you do this and you do greater damage then your eBay claim may not be as strong. If you're not happy and feel that should have been disclosed file the claim through eBay ASAP. They tend to lean the buyers way and you shouldn't be stuck with a problem child. Worst case if denied is that you're right where you are now.
Very nice. DR rounds have been great on the couple FL basses I have had but have been searching for a brighter half/pressure/flat option. I am currently using GHS Pressurewounds on my only FL. Nice and snappy, reduced fingerboard wear but I am not loving the feel. An odd roughness IMHO. They are getting better as they break in. Really wanting to try the new EBMM Slinky Flatwounds. Touted as roundwound sound with flatwound feel. There are a couple threads running now about these. But, like all things, much depends on your sound goal and preferences.
EDIT: As I think on this reply they may not be the best recommendations though because I had forgotten that my current FL is a 34" scale. I don't think the Cobalt Flats are availabel in a longer scale version yet.
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