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Lakland Owners Group #69

#6,361
Shielding is one possibility. Even though the cavities have the shielding paint, I still re-enforce with copper shielding tape.

The other possibility is that you are being powered by the same circuit as that light and there could be a poor ground in the mix. Try and find out what electrical circuit each of the outlets is connected to. If they are all on the same circuit, there is little you can do. If you can plug into a different outlet, that will help.
 
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#6,362
I've put my 55-02D on the block. I'm favoring my passive basses lately and haven't used this one on a gig in almost 6 months. Besides, I got a smoking deal on another bass. So something in the stable has to go. I love this one, but these are common and can pick another rather quickly if I need to.

20161218_123042_zpsme5ddkof.jpg
 
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#6,363
FWIW, those of you that like to do your own work on your instruments, copper shielding tape can give one hell of a "paper cut". I found out the hard way when I was shielding the cavity in one on my P Basses after I routed the bass for a bridge P pickup (it's a dual P now, a PP if you will). I was using my finger to smooth the tape in the bottom of the route and sliced it open, didn't notice until I saw blood dripping all over the bass. It was really deep. I guess the blood now makes it the best bass for metal.
 
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#6,365
ODDBALL said:
Do you think it's more likely the shielding will work or is it probably the circuit causing this?

I will ask if it's on the same circuit.

Thanks

Shaun
Click to expand...

I think that the circuit maybe the bigger issue. I'd find out and if possible switch to a new outlet. Of course, if the entire place has bad grounding then nothing is going to help, even more shielding.

That being said, a roll of the copper shielding is about $13 from eBay and can be done in about 30 minutes. Use a pencil eraser to get the corners, and shield the pickup routes too. It's worth the time.
 
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#6,368
So it looks like you are in a predicament. I'd go ahead and shield with copper tape and tame your highs on the bass. Boost them on the amp if possible to compensate. The high frequencies are always going to promote buzzing, and in situations like your, all you can do is adapt, improvise and overcome.
 
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#6,369
Texan said:
So it looks like you are in a predicament. I'd go ahead and shield with copper tape and tame your highs on the bass. Boost them on the amp if possible to compensate. The high frequencies are always going to promote buzzing, and in situations like your, all you can do is adapt, improvise and overcome.
Click to expand...

Ok, thanks for the advice. Can I shield around the pre amp in the cavity or is it best to remove them first then apply?

Shaun
 
#6,370
ODDBALL said:
Ok, thanks for the advice. Can I shield around the pre amp in the cavity or is it best to remove them first then apply?

Shaun
Click to expand...

Its best, in my experience, to take off the knobs, take off the nuts off of the pots and just remove the pots from the bores. When you have all of them loose, you should be able to tape them or move them out of the way. Apply the copper tape, split it as needed for the wiring channels and then make sure it overlaps or you connect it with another piece of shielding. You should not have to desolder anything to do a good job. For the pot bores, just poke a hole and fold the excess toward the outside so that the pot threads have contact.

You do want the shielding to overlap on each piece to ensure continuity. Make sure that you leave tabs olthe go up onto the shoulder of the cavity so that it comes in contactwith the cavity plate so that continuity is continuous.

Once you are done, if you have a multimeter, test the contunuity throughout the cavity using the setting that beeps or gives a tone when the circuit is complete. Randomly check for tones in the cavity. When you have the pots and pre reinstalled, check from the bridge to the cavity. You should have tones when you touch the bridge. If you shield the pup cavities, you will need to solder a small insulated wire to the copper in the pup cavity and to the control cavity for both pups and possibly from the ground on the pots to the control cavity too. Some call this over kill, but it ensures connection all the way around.
 
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#6,376
The Shoreline series and the Skyline Japan series are two different things and they exist side by side. The Skyline Japan is a lower priced bass with domestic pickups vs the official Lakland pickups that the Shoreline series has. I think other aspects of the hardware might be a little lower end as well. I have never played one so can't comment but the Shorelines are comparable to the Skylines so consider the Skyline Japan models as slightly lower than the Skylines we have.
 
#6,377
Texan said:
So it looks like you are in a predicament. I'd go ahead and shield with copper tape and tame your highs on the bass. Boost them on the amp if possible to compensate. The high frequencies are always going to promote buzzing, and in situations like your, all you can do is adapt, improvise and overcome.
Click to expand...

So I was thinking..... what if I upgraded my electronics. Would that solve the problem?

I have had at least four to five different basses play through the same rig and never a issue. Passive and active.

Shaun
 
#6,378
Not necessarily. I would go ahead and shield. Then to be sure, reflow all of the connections on your pots to make sure that the connections are solid. If you see no difference, then A/B if you can with another active bass at a practice.

If you want to spend the money on a quality Pre, then go for it. The sound difference will be significant. The stock pre is very treble oriented. A US Bart NTMB sounds killer with the stock pups in the 5501 and tames the highs.
 
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#6,379
I went back to Shaun's original post about this noise issue. Is this a noise that is really best characterized as a "hiss" and not a "buzz" or "hum"? A sheilding issue would typically not produce a hiss, would it?

Do you happen to have the treble dimed? The MK1 pre is pretty trebly and doesn't need much, if any boost on the highs from my experience. In fact I seem to remember the thing producing a hiss when the treble was boosted.

I would first see if you can dial in a satisfactory setting before chasing into any rabbit holes.
 
#6,380
Double E said:
I went back to Shaun's original post about this noise issue. Is this a noise that is really best characterized as a "hiss" and not a "buzz" or "hum"? A sheilding issue would typically not produce a hiss, would it?

Do you happen to have the treble dimed? The MK1 pre is pretty trebly and doesn't need much, if any boost on the highs from my experience. In fact I seem to remember the thing producing a hiss when the treble was boosted.

I would first see if you can dial in a satisfactory setting before chasing into any rabbit holes.
Click to expand...


The sound only pokes its ugly head out when the FOH lights are on. Once they are turned off all is well. Of course when the lights are on and if I boost the treble it sounds a lot worse.

Shaun
 

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