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Leafenbacker

Thanks again everyone, for your high praise.

I think that given that this bass has a 24 fret neck, it would have been nice to see the cutaways brought in deeper for better fret access, and perhaps the whole lower bout moved rearward an inch or so. Then the whole bass would have been as evolved as the headstock.

Yeah, this was another aspect of this build I had to think about, while I was putting it together. I'll say that I didn't really want 24 frets but that's what Carvin makes, so I went with it. For a while I though to shave off the last few frets which would allow a proper neck pickup position, and a shorter reach to the first few frets. I have long arms, but they do have limits, and I could have moved the body panels further up. However, since I didn't build the neck, I had no idea where the truss rod ended, and didn't want to ruin the whole neck based on conjecture.

In my first build, the Reformer, I used the same neck and indeed took advantage of the deep cutaway on the lower body wing. It also helped that the original body design was made for a 24 fret neck. But that also seriously impinged on the pickup locations, and I didn't want to make it worse on this build. I rarely use the frets up that high anyway - maybe hitting a high "E" once in a while, and don't really mind the body/neck positioning on this build. I also didn't want to make this bass any longer. The Reformer came out pretty long and as a result, won't fit in a standard case. I ended up making one for it. I wanted to be able to use a standard size case for this build, so went with the current design.

yep - thanks!

Yes, without your input, I'd still be struggling with tuning machine selection, and trying to figure out how to extend those top two tuner stems. Thanks for the suggesting and rough draft of that head stock design. That made a huge difference in the outcome of this build.

Unfortunately, I started doing a setup as soon as I glued in the magnets and TRC, and ended up putting too much pressure on the glue connection before it was fully cured. Second verse, same as the first, with some changes based on yesterday's experience. The first thing I did was to loosen the middle two string to provide a little clearance in which to work.

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Then I took the dremel and flattened out the dowel piece still glued in the truss rod cavity. It was a little canted toward the nut, and pretty roughed up with the remaining glue.

Then I stuck the magnet onto a hex bit, put a little glue on the dowel, and pushed tight for about 60 seconds.

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I'll let that cure for a while, maybe even over night, before I start gluing the other magnet to the TRC. I don't want the same thing to happen again. I'm not even going to try to pull off the hex bit, in fear of it pulling off the magnet from the dowel. These are neodymium magnets, and are surprisingly strong for their size.

So I've got a pretty full plate these days. The guitarist left my band, so the drummer and I are auditioning a new guy this weekend. And I want to refinish my SVT cabinet as well. I'll begin that on Saturday. And we have a new song list, so I have to get working on that. It might be best to wait until we pick a guitarist, and just record the practice. I could post that here which would solve a few requests for the sound/video clips.

In the mean time, I have to start on dinner :)

Again, thanks to everyone who offered their suggestions, input, feedback, and support with this build. I can honestly say that it never would have happened without you all.
 
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It's looking amazing! What kind of glue are you using on the magnets? I don't think I've had any issues with superglue.

I'm using the gel type, which takes a little while to cure. I used it to glue down the leaves, but they didn't experience any stress after gluing. It's loctite brand, and has worked well for gluing down the pickup screws. But again, no stress soon after laying down the glue. I noticed then it takes a little while to cure, so I should have know better.

Have you thought of staining the truss rod cover mahogany?

And have you seen this thread: http://www.talkbass.com/threads/chi...er-lemmy-kilmister-signature-replica.1037269/

I like your's much better.

Thanks. Yes, I did see that thread earlier today. I like mine better too :)
 
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I'm using the gel type, which takes a little while to cure. I used it to glue down the leaves, but they didn't experience any stress after gluing. It's loctite brand, and has worked well for gluing down the pickup screws. But again, no stress soon after laying down the glue. I noticed then it takes a little while to cure, so I should have know better.

Oh, yeah, the gel does seem to take longer.
 
Letting that sit over night seems to have done the trick. When I get home from work, I'll glue another magnet (with the correct polarity facing there correct way:P) to the cover, and let that set up for a while. Of course, I could make a new truss rod cover out of metal...
 
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I have to agree 4004s have always reminded me of those hairless cats. It's like, I can tell it's a cat, but without any of the things that make a cat cute and cuddly. Sterile and nauseating come to mind.

But, different strokes for different folks. I had an ex who LOVED her hairless cat to death.

While it's fairly obvious that they released a fresh design, it has the appearance they didn't spend one dime on it. Looks like it was cobbled from stuff they already had in the back room.

The humbuckers look like they use the same metal case as the high gain neck pup. Whether or not that's true, is not the case. Those pups just looks weird. Their size seems to have the wrong proportion to the body, and with the flange and rivets fully exposed, it interferes with the contemporary look of the bass. I've seen modded 4004's with black soap bar style pups, and those bass's have a cleaner, more contemporary look, more in keeping with the 4004's objective.

The control panel, well, that's the first mod folks do, make it into a VVT.

4004's aren't exactly flying off the shelves, but with the application of some sound design principles, there's no reason why they shouldn't be.
 
Different strokes I guess. I agree it probably wasn't a hard design to come up with -- it's basically just a coffee table 4003 -- but I actually like the general aesthetic, Hi-Gain-esque pickups and all. (I guess I think those ones with the Barts or whatever look kind of tacky or something; just visually not my favorite, whether they may function great or not.) I tend to agree about the harness design (VT on a 2-pickup, instead of the standard Jazz wiring), but on the other hand when I play a 4004 I don't really miss the second volume for some reason. I don't really see what the design is lacking currently to get it flying off of shelves though, besides a switch over to VVT.

I don't need to defend it for them though, and this is Mapleglo's bass thread, so I'll shut up now.
 
One thing I didn't mention earlier is I bet the headstock is lighter (less wood and lighter tuners)--I bet this bass is a great sustainer. Headstock mass really matters in that area (some people say heavier, but I say lighter is better, IME).
 
Pretty...

Thanks!

I have little more to add that hasn't already been said, but this has been a massively inspiring thread to read. I stumbled on it by accident a couple of days ago and I am a bit sad to have reached the end! I can't wait to hear clips of it!
And, as impressive as making your own bass is, winding your own pickups?! Incredible.

Thanks! Oddly enough, I always thought winding pickups was some kind of magical process. By the third one, I was thinking it was one of the easier parts of the build. Maybe I'm doing it wrong?

One thing I didn't mention earlier is I bet the headstock is lighter (less wood and lighter tuners)--I bet this bass is a great sustainer. Headstock mass really matters in that area (some people say heavier, but I say lighter is better, IME).

One thing I've found with the tremolo bridge - it changes the way the bass … resonates? It doesn't "feel" like any of my other basses with a standard bridge. If I knew then what I know now, I may not have used the tremolo. It's not bad, per se, but it just doesn't feel as solid? I'm grasping for descriptive words here, because I'm not even sure I can pin down exactly how it's different. I think it sustains less well compared to a standard bridge, but I haven't actually compared it yet.

On to the pictures.

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You can really see the chips on the front top edge of the headstock in that last one. I guess I won't be too upset when I get my first real ding.

Anyway, what a long, strange trip it's been. Thanks to everyone who expressed interest, posted comments, suggestions, and helpful advise, and for all the support. Special thanks to JIO for his help with the headstock design, for Hopkins with his help with the Tung oil finish suggestions, and to everyone who helped with the final truss rod cover decision.
 
Dear Mapleglo
I have been following this build of yours from the start. I haven't chimmed in up to this point, the conclusion of your fantastic build. Congrats on a beautiful bass you have made. You have truly done a great job on it.
Look forward to following the next
 

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