So a D130 can be reconed as a K140. Is tbis actuall viable... will the now-K140handle the wattage it should on the old magnet assembly?
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Lol, ouch! Nice.Here's a few. I also have another 2x15 awaiting restoration with two K-140s ready to go in and two 1x15s each with an E-140 loaded in it.
View attachment 3035313
The d and k series had almost identical magnet and other physical structure. The K could handle more power. JBL no longer makes re-cone kits. What is available from third parties is a cone for the E series which has the same physical structure except it has a ceramic magnet. These cones will have the higher power capacity that comes with modern high temperature adhesives. (What I just said applies to the K130 which I recently reconed--I presume the 140 series has the same situation). The older ones are better in my mind because the alnico magnet weighs a lot less than the E series. Folks just ran out of alnico and so the ceramic magnet is cheaper.So a D130 can be reconed as a K140. Is tbis actuall viable... will the now-K140handle the wattage it should on the old magnet assembly?
Should be pretty close if it has the 6" long tubes. Mind the low end demands.I jist picked up an old Trace Elliot 1518. Gonna load an E140 into it, see what I get. (The cab has some strange speaker in it).
Thanks, yep!Should be pretty close if it has the 6" long tubes. Mind the low end demands.
I have a pretty close number of 6.2 cu ft of internal volume. It's an older one with Tolex and the red racing stripe. Big dang box.Should be pretty close if it has the 6" long tubes. Mind the low end demands.
How long are the port tubes?I have a pretty close number of 6.2 cu ft of internal volume. It's an older one with Tolex and the red racing stripe. Big dang box.
The recommended int vol is 4 or so cu ft. Lol.
View attachment 3036839
The specs are pretty disappointing. I'll try extending the ports, throwing some rigid pink insulation in it to lose some volume, see what an E140'll do.@BogeyBass might be kind enough to run a box program over it.
Thanks, yeah I'm speaker health-conscious these days!Isn't the extra volume ''free lunch'' when you are messing with the port length anyway?
Your Trace has a good low end cut with the bottom two sliders. Not a HPF but nearly as effective.
I just have my phone now, but when I reinstate a laptop here I'll do a WinISD run at it, thanks. And thanks for hangin' by man! Much appreciated!Play about with winISD to discover ''free lunch'' when you are protected from overexcursion at 40hz. You get a bigger bump at 80hz. I am by no means sure it will apply to your box as I have no winISD myself at the moment but as a general rule it should.
Source 4" cardboard tubing from a recycling station or ask about TB for common industrial applications of said diameter tubes.
The Sunn Coliseum series was solid state, so if you had a Sunn amp with KT88’s, the guitar models were 1000S, 1200S, or 1500S, all essentially the same amp(the number was different depending if it had rev/term or what speaker cab configuration it was paired with). The iconic 2000S was the bass head. OR you could have had the Model-T, which was an all-purpose top but went through two different versions with a changed pre-amp design.The d and k series had almost identical magnet and other physical structure. The K could handle more power. JBL no longer makes re-cone kits. What is available from third parties is a cone for the E series which has the same physical structure except it has a ceramic magnet. These cones will have the higher power capacity that comes with modern high temperature adhesives. (What I just said applies to the K130 which I recently reconed--I presume the 140 series has the same situation). The older ones are better in my mind because the alnico magnet weighs a lot less than the E series. Folks just ran out of alnico and so the ceramic magnet is cheaper.
PS. I had a sunn coliseum in the late 70s. 4 kt88 if I recall. I didn't realize how cool it was and had to get a marshall (I was a guitarist back then)--wish I still had it.