• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

lighted cabinets??

so the situation is as follows...
i was practicing with a few friends when i went to do a quick pop on the 1st string. when i did this, my entire speaker cabinet lit up. again it happened and thought nothing of it, as the clipping indicator light on my swr workingpro didnt trip. when i got a closer look, it appears that the fuse or something on the crossover plate was lighting up. it looked exactly like a lightbulb. also, there was no audible distortion from the speakers.

just some numbers for all you...

the swr workingpro 700 puts out 450W at 8 ohms

the nemesis nsp410 can handle 500W at 8 ohms

i was running a boss me50b into the cabinet, and the output level on it was set at 12"oclock and i was running clean with a bit of compression when this occured. when plugged direct into the amp, this problem dissapeared.

i was using a charvel csm2b with p/j setup, both pickups blended, volume all out and tone all out.


its safe to say that the origin of the prob is the me50b, so my question is, is there a light in the cabinet for affect? is this a fuse or resistor of sorts? and should i be worried :confused:

thanks for your replies!
 
It's the fuse for the crossover. A lot of them use bulb style fuses.

Correct, although I think it's protecting the horn, not the crossover. The beauty of using a (properly selected) light bulb this way is that it looks like an ordinary wire (i.e. very little resistance) during ordinary use, but drains off a fair amount of energy in the form of heat and light as you get close to the edge of bad things otherwise happening. Of course, at some point, it will sacrifice itself when things get out of hand.
 
As has been posted the light bulb is to protect your high range crossover components. Some manufacturers use a fuse some an actual lamp and still others a thermal auto resetting breaker for this function.

If the lamp is lighting its doing its job but you might want to cut the treble down a bit.

Paul
 
Bass rigs and p.a. rigs have included (usually) automobile lamps for decades...going back into the 1970's. The technology still works, and your horn should still work. You do need to check the auto lamp every couple of years or so, just to make sure that it hasn't blown (of course, your horn would most likely be blown, too, in that case). They range from 12-volt DC on up...IIRC, one SWR cab had a 48-volt setup.
 
good chance eden/nemisis is using the same car dome lamp they started using 20 some odd years ago when they made the first swr cabs.

generally if you cut back on the treble a hair or cut the attenuator for the highs on the cab (if the nemisis has one) you'll run less risk of blowing the light/fuse for the tweeter. If you're starting to light it up, it means you're getting close.

fortunately the lamps are available everywhere and are pretty cheap. very easy to replace too. generally they are mounted with the crossover on the inside of the input panel. on my old swr, you had to unscrew the input panel to expose the bulb and replace it, but it was a 2 min job.
 
Bass rigs and p.a. rigs have included (usually) automobile lamps for decades...going back into the 1970's. The technology still works, and your horn should still work. You do need to check the auto lamp every couple of years or so, just to make sure that it hasn't blown (of course, your horn would most likely be blown, too, in that case). They range from 12-volt DC on up...IIRC, one SWR cab had a 48-volt setup.

Your horn wouldn't shouldn't blow aswell. But it should be noticable by the horn not making any sound. The bulb is there as a sacraficial component that (should) die to save the components down stream of it.
 

Latest posts