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Lightweight EB/Eagle/Phoenix mashup - mystery woods
- Thread starter ctmullins
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- lightweight mystery
CT
I have some furniture with Minwax Polyshade on it, if you chip it you go right back to bare wood. The stain just seems to stay suspended in the finish without ever soaking into the wood. I think that's similar to what they are using on the Ibanez SR500, and it chips to bare wood. Have you used Polyshade before with good results? That's looking real good, love the SG style bevels.
I have some furniture with Minwax Polyshade on it, if you chip it you go right back to bare wood. The stain just seems to stay suspended in the finish without ever soaking into the wood. I think that's similar to what they are using on the Ibanez SR500, and it chips to bare wood. Have you used Polyshade before with good results? That's looking real good, love the SG style bevels.
- Apr 18, 2008
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Well, no. This would be something new for me. I could always do my usual TransTint and Deft clear lacquer...
Thanks! Yeah, I prefer the look of bevels over a big roundover. Most basses with large roundovers just look like big marshmallows to me.
Today I got the 1 degree angle routed into the neck pocket. It lines up perfectly now! But now my 21st fret dot is partially obscured, so I need to sand a little fall away into the top of the body...
I also got my electronics cavity routed. Still undecided on the control setup, so I haven't drilled for pots/switches yet.
Also started the finish sanding. My dad gave me a new sander for Christmas. Today was the first day I needed to do any sanding since then, so I fired it up. I bought some new Abralon discs to go with it too. I don't know if it's the fresh Abralon, or the sander itself, but wow, it works like magic!
Looking great, man!
What bit did you use for the bevel? I have yet to look into bevel-type bits, so am not quite sure which size/style to look for for a couple upcoming builds.
What bit did you use for the bevel? I have yet to look into bevel-type bits, so am not quite sure which size/style to look for for a couple upcoming builds.
- Apr 18, 2008
- 16,008
- 1
- 31,709
- Disclosures
- I'm highly opinionated and extremely self-assured
- Apr 18, 2008
- 16,008
- 1
- 31,709
- Disclosures
- I'm highly opinionated and extremely self-assured
Yeah, @LUpton , I can see the Mosrite too. Also the old Hagstroms, minus the wacky pickguard:
(Photo belongs to @D.A.R.K. , from the Hagstrom Club thread - thank you!)
(Photo belongs to @D.A.R.K. , from the Hagstrom Club thread - thank you!)
- Jul 1, 2005
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- Apr 18, 2008
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Did a good bit of sanding today, body and neck both.
Also hit the body with some black TransTint. I'm thinking I'll do an undercoat of black with the mahogany PolyShades over it. In typical fashion, I went straight for the production piece, and only considered a test piece afterward...
Also hit the body with some black TransTint. I'm thinking I'll do an undercoat of black with the mahogany PolyShades over it. In typical fashion, I went straight for the production piece, and only considered a test piece afterward...
- Apr 18, 2008
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Some people don't like for scarf joints to be visible. Me, I like being able to see them. I especially like them when the grain is prominent.
It's going to be a shame to cover up the natural color of this neck. At least the grain lines should remain visible under the finish.
It's going to be a shame to cover up the natural color of this neck. At least the grain lines should remain visible under the finish.
- Jul 1, 2005
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It's a bolt on, nothing wrong with leaving it natural and just coloring the front of the headstock if you want....nice work, BTW!Some people don't like for scarf joints to be visible. Me, I like being able to see them. I especially like them when the grain is prominent.
It's going to be a shame to cover up the natural color of this neck. At least the grain lines should remain visible under the finish.
- Apr 18, 2008
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Thanks - I actually hadn't considered that, but it's a good idea!
- Apr 18, 2008
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Well, it's done...
...but I don't really like it.
Ergonomically, it's great. Very comfortable, excellent upper-register access, super-lightweight at only 6 lbs 8 oz.
But it just doesn't sound very good. Plenty of bottom but no real crispness, even with a brand-new set of ProSteels.
Is it the body wood? Neck wood? Is it too lightweight? Is it the pickups? I might try wiring them in parallel...
...but I don't really like it.
Ergonomically, it's great. Very comfortable, excellent upper-register access, super-lightweight at only 6 lbs 8 oz.
But it just doesn't sound very good. Plenty of bottom but no real crispness, even with a brand-new set of ProSteels.
Is it the body wood? Neck wood? Is it too lightweight? Is it the pickups? I might try wiring them in parallel...
- Jul 1, 2005
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How are they wired now? Can you solo the bridge pickup in its brightest mode? Pretty sure that neck shaft is cypress BTW.
- Apr 18, 2008
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Series. The neck can be switched into G&L-style OMG single-coil-with-booty mode. But I'm thinking parallel or switchable to normal single-coil mode. It's worth a try. If that doesn't work then I'll try different pickups altogether.
I'm also wondering if BEAD is part of the problem.
It looks great ct! Worked out really nice overall. Very vintage looking but with a nice hard edge.
Every instrument is a system of parts interacting, but funny how this quote pretty much exactly sums up how I feel about DiMarzio Model Ones...
What size cap did you use for the "OMG" switch, I'm assuming you're putting a cap across one coil. If you want to keep that functionality and still be able to split it you could use a dpdt on/on/on switch wired like this.
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