logo issues again

[tjclem]

With the laminated necks I build the decals won't work for me they don't show evenly. I am considering having a brand built and burning in the logo Scary but not sure what else to try. Any other ideas, has anybody else tried this?..........t

 

[DougP]

this may not be a solution because of aesthetics but would you consider putting a solid colored veneer over the laminations?

what about a gold leaf logo?

 

[teej]

What do you mean the logos don't show evenly? Do you mean, for example, black logo on maple, paudauk, and wenge? I could see how that would be a problem. What about puting you logo on the fingerboard? 12th fret, perhaps? As for gold leaf (foil), I've experimented with it a few times. Not for logos, though (ceramics class). It's very tricky stuff and you need a LOT of patience and a steady hand. The end results ALWAYS blow me away though. I love the stuff and I plan on using it for my own logos, as soon as I get my bass building rolling (I'm still working on my one and only).

 

[DougP]

i might have to teach myself the gold foil craft. i really like it also.

tjclem, what manner of decals are you using?

 

[tjclem]

I have tried the "print it on your computer water slide decals." Yes I am talking about neck with both light and dark laminations. Like this one.

Link Removed

 

[Hambone]

Hey, if you guys have questions about leafing or guilding I might can help. I was a member of the American Society of Guilders for several years and have enough experience in the craft to be able to do most applications. I never tried "water guilding" though, so don't ask me about that. I've done lots of signwork with gold. It's a very satisfying craft.

 

[Hambone]

With the laminated necks I build the decals won't work for me they don't show evenly. I am considering having a brand built and burning in the logo Scary but not sure what else to try. Any other ideas, has anybody else tried this?..........t

A brand could be expensive - have you considered any DIY options?. I can think of a few ways to make a brand at the house so you won't have to drop the $50 or so needed to get something made.

- You could start by having a design sandblasted in aluminum. By using some sandblast "resist" (an adhesive backed rubber sheet with the design cut in it) a sandblaster can blow away the unneeded metal leaving the design. Aluminum can be heated to a temp suitable to scorch the wood nicely.

- Solder up a wire design on a brass block or plate. Use copper or brass wire and either braze or solder the design flat on the base.

- Cut or grind a design in plate brass and finish it like above. Maybe a Dremel grinder can put some good detail in the design.

- Keep in mind that the image can be a positive design (raised) or a negative design (relief) which is easier to make. Also remember to work in REVERSE!!

- Look on the internet and search for "Printers Memorabilia". You should look for examples of cold press type blocks with the engraved images used when all type was handset. These pictures and graphic elements are sold fairly cheaply and there is a really wide range of subjects. You could even get the type itself and make a brand from that. You would be getting type and art that is unlike anything a simple stamping brand manufacturer would ever offer.

Hope this helps.

 

[DougP]

Hey, if you guys have questions about leafing or guilding I might can help. I was a member of the American Society of Guilders for several years and have enough experience in the craft to be able to do most applications. I never tried "water guilding" though, so don't ask me about that. I've done lots of signwork with gold. It's a very satisfying craft.

not to hijack this, but my biggest question is how to get the adhesive applied to the project in the form of the logo/design? in my head i can see that being the most difficult part of the process...but then, i have never seen it done either.

 

[Hambone]

not to hijack this, but my biggest question is how to get the adhesive applied to the project in the form of the logo/design? in my head i can see that being the most difficult part of the process...but then, i have never seen it done either.

If it's a simple design, a stencil can be cut from a material called "frisket". That's a thin, clear, adhesive plastic film used in art circles for airbrush. Use an X-acto knife and don't drink that second cup of coffee. If it's a complex design, the stencil can be cut by computerized plotter. If it's something really simple like lines, bordering them with tape works well.

The adhesive is called "size" and is a hide glue made from animal skins. It's also called "guilders oil" because it looks like oil and flows like motor oil. There are 2 type - slow set and quick set. Slow set gives you up to 24 hours to apply the gold while the quick set only a few hours. The adhesive is properly cured for application with a very clean finger can be lightly drug across it's surface and it squeeks without disturbing the smooth surface.