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Looking for a better B string

Increasing scale length is not the only way to get a good B string. Controversial opinion here on TB incoming; An extremely rigid neck is a better way to achieve a consistent B string and you can do it with shorter scale lengths. The Manne 6-string I play is a 31" scale and the B is as good as any I've ever heard or played. Not only does it sound good but, more important to me, it also sounds consistent as compared to the other strings. I was honestly skeptical of the concept when I first read about it but after having the bass for awhile I'm completely sold on it.

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Currently I have 2 "vintage" Fender American J fives. 10 and 20 years old. Both have weak and floppy B string tone. Although the newer one is better. Both strung with .130 rounds. A new project is demanding more than occasional B string work so I'm seeking something with better definition and sustain. 35" scale? Fatter B string? Different designs?
Use a .135
 
Killer 34" B's in a Musicman StingRay has existed for decades, and doesnt cost alot especially if buying used.
*I* have not found a need for 35" or fanned to get a killer B sound.

With that said, I find string construction to be a major item just on B strings. There are so many brands where the B doesn't sound as crisp or articulate as the E-G strings: my personal favorite is DR. Their B is just as crisp, plays, feels, and sustains the same as the rest of the set.
Ernie Ball B strings are also awesome, but DR's last me two to three times longer.

I have never liked taper wound B's...that alone makes them feel floppy: big mass vibrating on (too much of) a narrow point. To me, the mass over the bridge saddle is what maintains to the consistant feel across the B-G.

I still like to try other things, but I typically find I'll like the E-G strings and then get disappointed by the B's...my last two trials were R Cocco, and SIT.

BTW, among my collecrion, I have also have a Squier Jazz 5 for many years now that sounds great: the B was loud, I had to play with pickup height settings to balance it out, but this B sustains forever. I have this bass strung with Galli 40-125 set.
 
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My later model bass has that. May explain it's slightly performance over the older one.

Before you go crazy on getting new gear try giving a Fender string retainer a shot. They made them originally for basses with challenged A string. You just replace the B tuner washer with it and it’ll help add to the string break after the nut and some tension. I did something similar with a non fender bass I have and it helped a lot.

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Generally, as you go from your B or E to G strings, they will sometimes have higher tension as the string gauge decreases, but if you're referring to the same tuning at different gauges, thicker strings have higher tension.

bass-string-tension-chart-jpeg-3.jpg
Generally, as you go from your B or E to G strings, they will sometimes have higher tension as the string gauge decreases, but if you're referring to the same tuning at different gauges, thicker strings have higher tension.

bass-string-tension-chart-jpeg-3.jpg
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Thanks!
 
About 25 years ago, a piano tech at the store where I was guitar and bass repairing- showed me something I've never forgotten. It rings (see what I did here) true with every set of strings I install on my own, and client's basses.
He showed me the gauges of the lower strings on different length pianos. The really short harp- grand pianos, like the ones you'll see in the corner of some people's homes, have very thick bass strings. They produce the same notes as longer pianos, and you can hear how 'tubby' and they sound, with fast decay and weird overtones- in comparison, say, to a Steinway concert grand piano which uses much thinner, longer strings to reach the lower pitches. It is known, that longer, thinner strings with the added length to hold a low pitch, and that has room to vibrate, will sound more pure than one that is shorter and thicker. I was not surprised at his demonstration, but it was enlightening.
As all of that pertains to basses, with a fixed scale length- I find, on my own 34" scale five strings, that a .125, is ideal in my standard .45,65,85,105, sets.
I'd imagine a .120 with a little higher action, would sound maybe a little better. The D'Addarios I buy sometimes, have a .130- as do most regular gauge five string sets. I always find that it doesn't really sound all that good. Especially as the strings reach the end of their life span. I've played some longer scale- 35" mainly- and I cannot say that it makes much of a difference. Lighter bass strings, more pure harmonics.. but on a shorter scale, it's not feasible. I've strung some of the lower tuning players instruments with Kalium strings as large as a .160, if I remember correctly. I can't relate, as I've not played a gig in those tunings- but they seemed to dig it.
We all like what we do, these are just my experiences.
 
And depending on the bridge design, getting the right break angle on a B-string thicker than 120-125 can be tricky, hence why many folks here recommend a taper-wound B, like on the D'Addario ProSteel 43-127 set (which has tapered BEAD strings).
A very important and oft-overlooked topic. Are you making sure you have a decent break angle, and setting the witness point properly on your basses?
 
I don't think scale length is the end-all-be-all for B strings. I use 34" scale 5-strings with 40-120 strings, and their B's feel and sound solid to me, especially the one strung with DR Lo-Rider steels. I think a big contributor to B-string tightness is how tight and well-constructed the neck joint is. (34" scale 5-strings are what feel best in my hands. I love and respect extended and multi-scale basses, but I gotta go with what my hands like).

Even with strings, simply upping the gauge isn't everything. Different strings are constructed differently. For example, a GHS Boomer 130 will be stiffer than a D'Addario XL 130 because GHS uses a thicker core wire. That's why a lot of heavy rock artists like hex-core Boomers because they get the stiffness of a heavy gauge with the playability of a lighter gauge.

DR's DDT strings are also made with a thicker core wire to handle lower tunings.

And depending on the bridge design, getting the right break angle on a B-string thicker than 120-125 can be tricky, hence why many folks here recommend a taper-wound B, like on the D'Addario ProSteel 43-127 set (which has tapered BEAD strings).

While it's always fun to seek out and buy a new bass (GAS is real and TalkBass enables it), I would try experimenting with strings and setups (including pickup height and all that). Strings are the least expensive mod you can do that makes a world of difference.

What strings do you use?

I would agree with this - I have a 34" 5-string whose B is probably 95% as good as my Dingwall's unless I'm using lower tunings. In my limited experience, however, Fenders have uniquely weak low Bs.

Agreeing with folks that are saying experiment with strings first.

A DR DDT single B string over your normal fave 4 even, while you're experimenting.

All of these things. Unless you're looking for an excuse to buy a new bass, different strings could be all you need. I never liked the low B on my 1996 Carvin 34" six string. I put La Bella Gold Flats on it. For the first time the low B feels just like all the other strings when i play it. The tension and solidness of the strings really helps. It sounds amazing when not plugged in. (Unfortunately, the Carvin's too-small pickup size lets it down when plugged in.)

Yeah, 35" or 36" inch scales is one way to make the low B better, but it's not the only way. I've heard great things about Skjold's Low B with a 33" scale. I've played a Mas Hino 30" 5 string with a killer Low B. Thirty-inch-scale... Great low B... Blew my mind.
 
I thought my Fender Squire 34 scale with medium Hi-Beams had a nasally B string. But at gig levels, it was actually okay. To be fair, I did upgrade to EMG JAX5, but the stock pickups were not that any worse on the B string. The trick is to add more wrap on the tuner to pull the B string down, also HPF and lastly a scrunchy on the first fret or so also helped tame the nasal tones. Once I heard how it sounds at gig volume (which included some FOH subs and backwash), it did not bother me anymore at home practice. Also on jazz basses, you want to slightly favor the bridge pickup to control the B. Sounds counter intuitive, My EMG pickups were just using an EMG active tone control at that gig. Not that much different than a passive tone control, just more linear on the adjustment but same bright and dark tone as a passive pot on both ends. I now have the EMG 2 band BTS EQ and I barely touch the bass and most of my EQ is the treble which I tend to cut more

I also have 3 35 inch scale and one 36 (not fan fret) but the 34 is not useless at all.
 
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Sometimes low tension strings are a little less floppy and more consistent in my experience. LaBella LTF B (.118) is pretty great, and I've combined it with my favorite LaBella set 760FL to great use.

Also, the GHS Precision Flats custom set CM3050 with a single B string (.126) has been really great too.

As far as basses go, the G&L Kiloton 5 is my favorite favorite five string that I've played, 34" scale. Probably my favorite bass overall if I'm being honest.
 
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