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Looking for my first bass cab.

Gary George

Gary George

Guest
Mar 15, 2015
6
0
33
Northeast Texas
#1
Let me start off by saying this is my first post. I've looked at threads on here numerous times, and finally decided to make an account so I can start posting.

Now let's get down to business..
I'm looking to buy my first bass cab. I know for sure my head is going to be an Ampeg PF-500. I'm buying it from a friend. I'm figuring on purchasing a 4x10. I've been browsing my area craiglist, and I've come across plenty of decent looking cabs. SWR Goliath III, Peavey Headliner 410, Ampeg PR-410FLH, Eden D410XLT, Ampeg SVT-410HE, Ampeg SVT-410HLF to name most of the ones I've come across.

A little more info about me. Right now I'm playing in a heavy metal band, trying to compete with the guitarists Marshall half stack. I'm pretty clueless about how a bass cab/head setup works (ohm ratings on each, power compatibility). So any info about how the resistances work along with the power. Such as using a 500 watt head with, lets say a 700 watt cab, etc.

I guess my main question here is, of the cabs listed above, which are good for my situation (factoring in my head, genre, other band members gear)

Thank you all for any help in advance!
 
#2
If you're getting a pf 500, that means that your head puts out 300 watts at 8 ohms, and 500 at 4 ohms. The whole ohms thing, is a measurement of impedance, not to be confused with resistance, though they are both measured in ohms. Basically, if you have a cabinet that is 8 ohms of impedance, and you hook up another 8 ohm cabinet in parallel (which is the most common way to hook then up), you'll have a 4 ohm load. If you have a four ohm cabinet, then you can't hook up another 4 ohm one unless you make a special cord and rig them to go in series, which will make an 8 ohm load. Same thing with a four ohm and eight ohm cabinet together - yes in series, no in parallel. Parallel is the default way that they will hook up, where you just plug both of them into the head, or daisy chain cabinet a into cabinet b, and cabinet b into the head, if that makes sense.

As for specific cabinets, I can't help you with that, since it's related to budget and personal experience and taste. The ampeg 410hlf is a good metal cabinet, but you couldn't add on after that if you need more.

Edit: I made a typo about series being the default way to hook things up, it's parallel.I have corrected it.
 
#3
Note - if your head is rated at 500 watts, that's likely at 4 ohms. So you'd need a 4 ohm cab to get the most out of your amp, or two 8 ohm cabs.

Keeping up with halfstacks? A PAIR of 4x10's (8 ohm each) would be your best bet - otherwise get a hefty 4 ohm single 4x10.
 
#4
Some more info I should probably include..

I'm using a 4 string p-bass for the band, Drop C. I'm wanting to set up my 5 string soon and start using that instead.

Also, I just started looking at guitar center's used gear. I've seen so many 410's in my price range, i have no idea what to look for anymore haha.

One more thing, I may also end up buying a 115 to accompany any bass cab i buy.
 
#5
I think the SVT-410hlf is a good bet - 500w RMS @ 4ohm, and it gets DEEP. I have one and love it, but for some it's a bit too bassy. Also I understand the ones made by SLM pre-2007 are overly dark and mid-scooped, but I can't comment on that - mine is a newer one made by Loud and I think it sounds great. The best thing to do is bring your head and bass and try them out before buying. Good luck and choose wisely.
 
#7
Regarding impedance and wattage.

+3dB = ~2X Wattage input, so if you're pushing 500W and getting 110dB, you'd likely have to be able to push 1000W to get to 113dB, which is why you should see how sensitive the speaker in the cab is if possible if volume is a concern.

Sensitivity is probably more important than power handling or impedance of a cab if output levels are a concern (unless your cab is rated at a really low wattage to the point that you're likely to blow it up before you hit the volume you want). You can, using the example above, be running a 4 ohm speaker at 500W and getting 110dB, yet be able to run 300W into 8 ohms on a more sensitive driver and reach 115dB, where you'd need over 1000W to do that with the other cab. None of those numbers are coming from anywhere btw, you should be able to get more output than that given those power levels, but I'm just using those to illustrate my point.

If you can't find any sensitivity or output level numbers anywhere, see if you can listen to any of the cabs. More sensitive ones will be louder given the same amount of power.

See if you can listen anyway actually... some really sensitive stuff sounds terrible :p
 
#9
Gary George said:
... Also, I just started looking at guitar center's used gear. I've seen so many 410's in my price range, i have no idea what to look for anymore haha.

One more thing, I may also end up buying a 115 to accompany any bass cab i buy.
Click to expand...
Only do this if the 1st cab you buy is also a 115. And the right choice for that 1st cab would be an identical one to the 2nd box.

A 410/115 is about as bad a set-up as it gets, unless the 410 is 4-ohms, the 115 is 8-ohms, & your amp can handle a 2-ohm load. A 410 won't "do the highs" while the 115 "covers the lows." This thinking is malarky. Lots of guys do it? Well yes, but lots of guys don't really know what they're doin', have succumbed to old wives' tales, & are listening with their eyes.
 
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#12
Thanks for all the help everyone!

Regarding the 410/115 pair, last night I did some more reading about the svt410hlf (which I intend to buy cause it's a hell of a deal) and everyone said a 115 was a bad idea, and that the SVT can handle low frequencies on its own just fine.
 
#13
Gary,
I read the specs and the PF500 and SVT410HLF at both 500 watts at 4 ohms is a good match. One thing to remember is the speaker specs are usually number of watts before the voice coil of the speaker melts. You should not push your amp too hard or you risk blowing your speakers mechanically (around here, it's said to run your speakers around half the watts (eg. 250) so you don't blow (not fry) your speakers). If you can, lift your cabinet off the floor so you can hear yourself (and your speakers) better. When eqing your amp, your best friend are mid-low frequencies, rather than the bass knob at higher volumes.
Good luck.
 
#14
One quick note, just for transparency: There were more than a few PF500's that had some performance issues. Should be easy enough to find out the details with the search function. Has your "friend" had any issues with the head; why is he looking to sell it? There is just as much chance it's fine, if not a better chance it is, but I wanted to mention it. I think there is some info in the thread discussing this that mentions specific lot/batch/serial numbers. FYI and all.
 
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#16
Sounds like you're set on getting the pf500 but, if you're willing to reconsider, try to find something with more power/headroom. Hartke LH1000, GK 1001RB or MB800, Mesa M6 come to mind. I'd also recommend scouring the classifieds here for amps/cabs rather than GC's used site.
 

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