Looks terrible, sounds... OK? Kinda?

[Bikeguy57]

Winding length is what's important.

The Electric Bass Scale Length is the measurement from the Bridge Saddle to the Nut. This can also be referred to as the "vibrating length" of the string. On a Jazz Bass (pictured) the "Scale Length" is measured at 34" roughly. What the "Scale Length" does not account for is the distance between the Ball End and the Saddle as well as the Nut to the Tuning Posts.

In the below images the length of the Green Bar represents the "Scale Length" of the bass which is the distance measured from the Bridge Saddle to the Nut. The Red Bar shows where to measure to determine the minimum required winding length of the string needed to fit the bass. This measurement is taken from Ball End to just past the Nut. To find the maximum winding length you must measure from the Ball End to the Tuning Post for the thickest string.

Here is how to properly measure your instrument to find out the correct winding length. There are two measurements you want to take note of.
First measure from the back of the ball end to the tuning post side of the nut. This will give you the "Minimum Required Winding Length" for your instrument.
Then measure from the back of the ball end to the middle of the tuning post. This will give you the "Maximum Winding Length" for your instrument.
The ideal winding length is going to fall right in the middle, but as long as you do not go less than or greater than these measurements then you are using the correct length strings!

 

[mb94952]

All in due time. I want to see what their customer support has to say, if anything.

That was super cool of you not to throw a company under the bus until the verdict is read.
I am NOT a 5 string player, but I have a few 5'ers I'm selling now and then from trades, etc. I thought all 5 string sets are the same and the B string was so long it didn't have any thin part to wrap around the tuner, so it's a big glob worm. D'oh !

 

[aprod]

Before I did that I'd verify a couple other (easy) things. I see how you wrapped the post which make me think to look at a couple other (easy) things like: 1) is that string twisted? Loosen it (a lot ... like 1/4 inch) and pull it down/thru the bridge. Watch the ferrule and see if it twists to seek it's original/natural position. Then just re-tune 2) what is the break angle at the nut. Try to wrap the string at the post to force the string down, thus creating a greater break angle.... If that doesn't help, try removing the silk. I doubt that'll work cause (I think) the taper of the string has started before the nut, so it's always gonna be "odd" sounding. The real answer is to replace the strings

That has nothing to do with the problem. You answered a question he didn't ask.

 

[totalnoob]

Here is a bit of silver lining: I put the other strings on one of my 4-string basses, and now this baby sounds wonderful. It is truly a consolation, the way it plays and sounds, it's fabulous.

 

[Bob Coldwell]

Yeah, but .... the G and D strings both touch the nut too. Even if they sound okay, it isn't normal to have the silk down that far, is it?

I asked what brand so that we could determine if their measurements are different from what might be standard.

Edit: I was referring to the original bass in question. Not your 4 string.

 

[MarkM13]

I had this happen on a couple of sets of LaBella strings; the wrong 'B' was in the pack.
It's the main reason I stopped using them. Once is understandable but twice; nope.

 

[totalnoob]

Yeah, but .... the G and D strings both touch the nut too.

Hm...? I am not sure what you mean, strings are supposed to touch the nut. Please clarify, my brain is now tired and I find it harder to decipher what you had in mind.

Edit: I was referring to the original bass in question. Not your 4 string.

Yes, I'm aware, that was clear.

 

[totalnoob]

I had this happen on a couple of sets of LaBella strings; the wrong 'B' was in the pack.

Wow, I would never have expected such a thing.... at least not before today

 

[blowinblue]

As the OP has confirmed, the bass in question is 35" scale. I'm pretty sure we have the same bass. Mine is 35" for sure. I would agree that these strings are not meant for this scale length.

M. M.

 

[totalnoob]

As the OP has confirmed, the bass in question is 35" scale. I'm pretty sure we have the same bass. Mine is 35" for sure. I would agree that these strings are not meant for this scale length.

View attachment 4920044

M. M.

I'll push back a tiny bit on that assertion: while the bass is a 35" scale machine, all "long scale"-designated strings have worked perfectly well on this bass. I experiment a lot with various strings on my basses, and had no issue up until today. So much so that I came to the (wrong?) conclusion that "long scale" includes 35".

Another thing is that the sound, I believe, is not as much affected by the position of the taper (nor the silk, as I have removed that) vs. the 0-fret, but the loose wounding - please bear in mind an important development which is, I found that the wounding has detached from the core along the whole length of the string.

What is your fretboard made of? Looks quite interesting.

 

[blowinblue]

I'll push back a tiny bit on that assertion: while the bass is a 35" scale machine, all "long scale"-designated strings have worked perfectly well on this bass. I experiment a lot with various strings on my basses, and had no issue up until today. So much so that I came to the (wrong?) conclusion that "long scale" includes 35".

What is your fretboard made of? Looks quite interesting.

No harm in pushing back. What I should have said was that these strings (your particular set) are not meant for your bass because they are mislabeled or incorrectly packaged. I've experienced a similar thing with a 5-string set of La Bella flatwounds. Also, I think that long scale can mean slightly different things to various string companies. My fretboard is simple, rather plain maple. Here's a pic of the whole bass. Yes, I've modded a few things.

M. M.

 

[totalnoob]

No harm in pushing back. What I should have said was that these strings (your particular set) are not meant for your bass because they are mislabeled or incorrectly packaged. I've experienced a similar thing with a 5-string set of La Bella flatwounds. Also, I think that long scale can mean slightly different things to various string companies. My fretboard is simple, rather plain maple. Here's a pic of the whole bass. Yes, I've modded a few things.

View attachment 4920072

M. M.

OK, if you put it that way I can't but agree.

Yes, that's indeed the bass I have, a Korean-made Kingston series MTD except I have the white pearl pickguard (looks like you replaced yours with a plexiglass one, which I find even nicer!!) and rosewood fretboard. That maple fretboard makes the biggest difference, though. Was that a custom job as well? It's really eye-popping. Man, you have a sweet bass.....

 

[totalnoob]

No harm in pushing back. What I should have said was that these strings (your particular set) are not meant for your bass because they are mislabeled or incorrectly packaged. I've experienced a similar thing with a 5-string set of La Bella flatwounds. Also, I think that long scale can mean slightly different things to various string companies. My fretboard is simple, rather plain maple. Here's a pic of the whole bass. Yes, I've modded a few things.

View attachment 4920072

M. M.

I just saw the same model MTD Kingston bass, but with 4 strings - and it also has a maple fingerboard! Looks awesome.

 

[H K]

You probably got a lemon. Happens. I've had many brand new sets containing dead or damaged strings. Don't think I've ever seen a WRONG strong in a package, but I'm sure it could happen.
As for the silk: It's been a topic for many people using the gibson-style 3 point bridges for years. Certain strings will get the silk on the saddle. Some say this kills sustain, some say it doesnt. I'm with the common-sense crowd that believes adding a fabric under metal will dampen vibrations regardless..
You can definitely pick it off, but it's an annoying process. I'd contact the dealer first for a replacement, or atleast take pictures, so he doesnt think you just F'd it up by removing the silk.

 

[totalnoob]

I'm with the common-sense crowd that believes adding a fabric under metal will dampen vibrations regardless..

Yeah, me, too.

Don't think I've ever seen a WRONG strong in a package, but I'm sure it could happen.

Someone above in this thread had this happen a couple of times.

You can definitely pick it off, but it's an annoying process.

Yessir, it was finnicky, especially when you do it so that you don't damage the string itself - picking under the silk with a needle and then breaking off the threads, edging my way up....
And it was all for nothing. It wasn't the silk, or the taper position, that caused the problems (I believe) - it's the winding detaching from the core of the string.

 

[non]

op, if the zero fret is indicative of the rest of your frets you might want to polish them. they look very corroded.

 

[totalnoob]

op, if the zero fret is indicative of the rest of your frets you might want to polish them. they look very corroded.

No, all other frets are much nicer.

 

[Bob Coldwell]

Hm...? I am not sure what you mean, strings are supposed to touch the nut. Please clarify, my brain is now tired and I find it harder to decipher what you had in mind.

Sorry. I meant the silk wrap.


Yes, I'm aware, that was clear.

 

[Bob Coldwell]

Winding length is what's important.

The Electric Bass Scale Length is the measurement from the Bridge Saddle to the Nut. This can also be referred to as the "vibrating length" of the string. On a Jazz Bass (pictured) the "Scale Length" is measured at 34" roughly. What the "Scale Length" does not account for is the distance between the Ball End and the Saddle as well as the Nut to the Tuning Posts.

In the below images the length of the Green Bar represents the "Scale Length" of the bass which is the distance measured from the Bridge Saddle to the Nut. The Red Bar shows where to measure to determine the minimum required winding length of the string needed to fit the bass. This measurement is taken from Ball End to just past the Nut. To find the maximum winding length you must measure from the Ball End to the Tuning Post for the thickest string.

Here is how to properly measure your instrument to find out the correct winding length. There are two measurements you want to take note of.
First measure from the back of the ball end to the tuning post side of the nut. This will give you the "Minimum Required Winding Length" for your instrument.
Then measure from the back of the ball end to the middle of the tuning post. This will give you the "Maximum Winding Length" for your instrument.
The ideal winding length is going to fall right in the middle, but as long as you do not go less than or greater than these measurements then you are using the correct length strings!

Thanks for sharing! It had never occured to me that winding length might vary within a certain scale length. But it makes perfect sense and is directly relevant to the OP's problem

 

[jamro217]

Five minutes with a razor blade and a jeweler's loupe and you'll be fine. Happy New Year.