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Low-cost DIY practice/coffeehouse tweeterless 110 [long]

The volume and tuning frequency can be adjusted with just up and down arrows. Watch the transfer magnitude function to see where the graph crosses the -3dB line. Make the graph somewhat smooth before it drops. If it has a 1dB bump it's no big deal.

To get a quick idea of how big a certain volume is, multiply the volume (if ft^3) by 1728 (12^3) to get it into cubic inches then take the cubed root to get an idea how big a cube of that size is. That's a bad set of dimensions to finalize, BTW. Try to make all of the dimensions different. This is just for a quick check.

Change from the "Transfer Magnitude" graph to "Cone Excursion" graph. In the "signal" tab, bump the wattage up until the graph crosses the red line. The red line is xMax. It's the limit before distortion.

Larger boxes will give you lower frequencies but will approach xMax with lower wattage. It's a balancing act.

Change from the Cone Excursion graph to Rear Port Air Velocity (?). At full power, ideally air velocity will be < 55 ft/s. You can change the diameter and length of the port (Ports tab) and the tuning will change accordingly. Sometimes it makes sense to have multiple smaller ports to get the right dimensions. The inside end of the port needs breathing room so it doesn't act like a smaller port. I figure that the diameter of the port is a safe distance usually.

Smaller diameter ports lower the tuning frequency as do longer ports and visa-versa.

Ideally, in the end you will account for the volume the speaker and ports remove from the cab's volume.

Modeling is only really accurate for the low end. It's not useful for the upper frequencies.

Good luck.

KO
 
Wow, that's quite a bit of info (that I do not understand as yet). But since I'm still referring to the PE ported cab from the OP, how do I get the cab info locked in then try various drivers against it.

Does that make sense with WINISD or is something else easier.

The low price and regular availability of this cab for me is the constant. If I can find a driver that works for under $50 then I'll make one. I'm noticing the cutout measurement is 9 1/8 and I don't want to mess with enlarging the hole, so that's another constraint to the driver. I suppose modding the port with a block (as mentioned before) is also an easy fix.

There's gotta be a driver that will drop in, rated at 100w+ with an SPL of over 92, or am I just wishing?
 
With a single 10 it's tough to find. With Eminence I may go so far as to say impossble, with their non-OEM products. The Faital 8PR200 is an 8" that might. I'd look at multiple S2010's for more SPLs. Or one of a lot of 12's. There is no Eminence 10" equivilant of the 3012LF or 3012HO, AFAIK. The 2510 looks kind of disappointing to me.

KO
 
I was thinking about this,

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or this

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Or this (98 SPL)

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This has no cutout dimension but it's a neo

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another

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Those all have the cutout under 9 1/8 which is the cutout listed of the box. I want to try these through WINISd or the like but don't know how to get it to work from the dimensions of this cab to get meaningful plots.

I just don't know poo about this but I wonder if there is one or two T/S parameters that you can tell by the value if it would work in a vented box of 1.1 ft3.

BTW, thanks for indulging my ignorance. Dumb questions are a great way to learn if they get less dumb the more you ask! :hyper:
 
Duke,
First let me say thanks for the original posting. As a builder of my own speaker cabs, I was very interested in this thread. However, I'll apologize now for repeating something or missing something... I got to page 10 of the thread and fell asleep. So, I jumped to the end and decided to post.

Over four years ago I bought 4 of the 12" ported cabs from PE. I installed an Eminence Delta Pro 12A in each, stuck grills on the front, put jack plates on in each, lined them with 1.5" poly fiber, added handles and corners, and away I went. I've used them ever since. Sound just fine. About 2 years ago I bought 2 Eminence 3012LF speakers and put them into 2 of these cabs. My typical bass rig is, then, 2 of the boxes with the Delta Pro 12A speakers and 2 boxes with the 3012LF speakers. Awesome. I drive them with a Carvin BX500 (which I've had since it was first released and it works great... and into a 2 ohm load). Anyway, these cabs are a terrific match for the 3012LF as Duke said. I will admit that I don't baby the cabs and they are all still in one piece and keep pumping out the bottom end. I did add 2 LeSon piezo tweeters to one of the cabs (w/ Delta Pro 12A) that are crossed over at 3kHz. I installed an on-off toggle switch. I never use the tweeters because the Delta Pro 12A speakers give me enough top end. (I use Warrior basses which deliver a lot of top end if you want it).

Anyway, just thought I'd chime in on this posting since I've done the PE pre-made cabinet thing. I've included a photo. The top two cabs have the Delta Pros in them and the bottom two have the 3012LFs in them.

MainBassRig.jpg
So, in your opinion :D how does that stuff sound? Reason I ask, I have a 12 laying around that needs to be doing something :)
 
Duke, better late than never, I hope you don't mind, but I linked this in the FAQ's.

Reminds me of the original Low B 10 with the 4" mid from the early 90's with the Peerless woofer and mids. I have to go back and look for the link for that, this could probably be morphed into that easily, though the Peerless drivers are extinct and would need to be redone with a new WinISD for current drivers.
 
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This is the 20 year old article by Len Moskowitz. The design ideas are still relevant today.

My Peerless woofer fried up long ago in an afternoon of mayhem. I dropped an Eminence BP102-4 in it's place. It's my best sounding cab. I call it Lenny. I wish I could find a PDF of the crossover for it, just for posterity.

The Eminence models quite well in the cab as is, but I'd like to get a larger diameter port in there, even if I haven't noticed any chuffing. It seems to be displacement limited to about 75 watts and have an F3 in the mid to high 40 Hz range. The crossover frequency is around 700 Hz as I recall, with steep 24 dB/octave slopes, which again is excellent to mate up with the BP102-4. It works very well for what I use it for.
 
I have one with the parts cut out, holes cut, with the Peerless driver, mid and crossover. I'll look in the box I have in the shed, but I THINK the x-over had some diagram with it.

And I think you are right, I seem to recall a steep slope on it.

So, I guess the next step would be, what would be the optimum, (cheapest) next step upgrade to the Duke LJ simple box, adding a mid and x-over to it, actually then a similar build as the LennyM with updated modern parts (parts actually available).

I wish I had time to screw around with it.
 
They're kind of different beasts. Duke's works with smaller cabs and is much more efficient at the expense of low end. Len's has copious amounts of low end but isn't nearly as loud or portable. Since Lenny stays at the venue that's cool. I don't really need any more volume out of it than I get, either.

Duke has the Vifa dome tweeter and a simple crossover. I've got all the parts, but I haven't followed through yet. I've used one of the woofers in a combo so I'm watching the prices drop with hope. I'd like to try an S2010 in my little Fender RAD Bass to see how I like it. That cab is tiny. Actually, the RAD Bass has always sounded good to me as is, so this is low priority.

KO
 
If anyone in Minneapolis is building one of these, I mucked up one of my cabs and wouldn't mind piggy backing on one of your orders. Then again, I could probably use another S2010 as well and make the shipping free.

The driver is fantastic. I need to make the time to finish one of the TB110 cabs. I have too many projects and not enough time.

KO
 
Two somewhat related things:

1) I found a vendor on eBay selling the S2010 for $90-some with $7 shipping. I've got one on the way. He had nine left yesterday. Amazon pointed me to him.

2) I found a copy of the Len Moskowitz cross-over schem last night. It's only tangentially related, but it'd be good for a BP102-4 + Alpha 6C cab. Four ohms, crosses over at 800 Hz with 24 dB/octave slopes. I'll get it scanned if anyone needs it.

KO