This would be a very different animal than Duke's cab. Heavier, much more expensive... sealed cab rather than ported, which might be preferable for the S2012, since it's less damped than the S2010. They don't give internal volume; looks like a little over 2cf. Might work pretty well. I'd want to replace the 2 1/4" jacks, or at least plug one.
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Low-cost DIY practice/coffeehouse tweeterless 110 [long]
- Thread starter DukeLeJeune
- Start date
This would be a very different animal than Duke's cab. Heavier, much more expensive... sealed cab rather than ported, which might be preferable for the S2012, since it's less damped than the S2010. They don't give internal volume; looks like a little over 2cf. Might work pretty well. I'd want to replace the 2 1/4" jacks, or at least plug one.
Wow. 1,800 views and only one person excited enough to build one? Meh, it's only day two of the thread's existence. 1,800 views is bound to have tickled someone else's fancy besides mine.
Parts on order to experiment with this. I need a cheap onstage bass monitor for playing at church that I won't mind leaving there. There's not much space and I don't need huge volume, so this might work just fine. I won't even bother with corners since it won't be moved around. It doesn't even need a huge amount of low end, since I sit pretty much right behind the subs and get some off them. I'll drive it with a GK MB200.
MX
There was a bit of discussion early on in this thread about using a "better driver" like the S2012. But it needs a bigger box, which costs more and the 10" box is on sale, etc.
Essentially, the draw of this box, as Duke intended is that "all the planets lined up" for this one. A decent driver which happens to perform decently, in a decent sized box which is on sale, etc, etc. Many here on TB are DIY-oriented, so spending $125 on parts to get a pretty nice little cab is not weird. Make this cab a little prettier, stick a crappy 25W amp in the back (and a lesser driver too boot!) and it sells for $300 on MF.
Essentially, the draw of this box, as Duke intended is that "all the planets lined up" for this one. A decent driver which happens to perform decently, in a decent sized box which is on sale, etc, etc. Many here on TB are DIY-oriented, so spending $125 on parts to get a pretty nice little cab is not weird. Make this cab a little prettier, stick a crappy 25W amp in the back (and a lesser driver too boot!) and it sells for $300 on MF.
Please see my reply right above your post and check the first two pages of this thread. A box of adequate size to do the 2012 justice would have to be built by you, defeating the purpose of this "no tools needed" little box build.
I think 3mm by about 10 or 12mm will be your best bet. It seems to me the holes in the speakons are .125" (1/8"), so 4mm would be too big.
That's excellent information, themarshall. Thank you!! You have no idea how much time and translation you just saved me.
No prob, christw. You should build one of these little babies anyway! Join the fun!
I'm thinking about ordering one tonight (and a handle!) Once I move one more piece of gear, I'll probably order a Streamliner 600/900 and I think with careful use, it would make a sweet baby EB/URB doubling rig.
Gotta have the handle. Don't forget about a grill! The driver is 75% of the cost of this little cab; would be a shame to put your foot through it. 
Oooh! Good call. Here's a new plan:
Put two of these suckers (and some extra parts) together and make a budget version of this: http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=729388
Put two of these suckers (and some extra parts) together and make a budget version of this: http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=729388
WOW! How the heck did I miss that thread? My apologies to Sundogue for that! What an awesome rig. So much thought and planning in that; it's inspiring. I think you're on to something, christw and I'm interested. You gonna do the "latch together and it all rolls" thing? Please do post pics.
- Nov 24, 2008
- 4,343
- 7,163
- Disclosures
- Owner & designer, AudioKinesis; Auth. mfg, Big E (Home Audio only)
+1. I wouldn't use only screws in anything MDF. Threads hold in plywood and they do in MDF too, but unlike plywood, MDF will come out right along with the screws.
Yeah, use T-nuts or a plywood backing if you're going to use a handle.
I don't know if you were talking about driver mounting as well. Not sure I'd recommend T-nuts or the like for driver mounting; I think the glue-reinforced MDF will be plenty strong for this application. And if you get a T-nut that binds a bit and becomes a "spinner", you've got a major problem if you can't get to the T-nut with a pair of pliars from inside the box.
That would be great if it works!
The cut-out looks to me like it's 1 7/8" in diamater. I called Parts Express, and without eyeballing one of those panel mount speakons, they couldn't tell me whether the mounting screw holes are far enough apart or not. So they're going to check on it tomorrow (the warehouse is closed now), and I'll post whatever they say.
That's the game plan. I really wanted to put together a sweet little rig like that except that I can't build one myself. I can assemble one though.
I downloaded the specs from Neutrik. The overall diameter is 2" and the mounting holes' center-to-center diameter is about 1.63". So if their cut out is 1 7/8" the hole will be too big. I went ahead and ordered one, so I'll report if it works. Might also work if I back the hole with a piece of plywood for the screws to hold on to. I have a rectangular dual speakon jack plate on hand if the round one doesn't work out.
MX
- Nov 24, 2008
- 4,343
- 7,163
- Disclosures
- Owner & designer, AudioKinesis; Auth. mfg, Big E (Home Audio only)
The 12" box is too small for the S2012. You get a large upper-bass peak, and weak lower bass. Not saying that won't work for some applications, but I like to minimize the discrepancy between the upper and lower bass regions. That way the lowest notes don't "die" as you go down the scale, and if you crank in a bit of EQ you don't end up with some notes "blooming" too loud.
The Kappalite 3012HO suggested by rpsands is a good candidate if you have the tools. The port in the 12" box is too long for the 3012HO; you'd need to shorten it to about 7" long. I guess a trim router would be the tool of choice.
The Kappalite 3012LF is a drop-in for the 12" box, and would give you very nice low end but has a weak top end.
If you go with either Kappalite, you will probably want to use T-nuts or Hurricane nuts. In that case I strongly suggest having a removeable input dish on the rear panel large enough to stick your hand through, just in case you get a spinner and have to grab it with pliars. I ruined an MDF subwoofer box when I got an inaccessible spinner, that's why I'm sensitive about it. GENTLY hand-tighten the screws that go into the threaded inserts (no drill set to warp speed), and stop if you get ANY binding. It is not worth it to try to power on through; back the screw out and try another one, maybe even using a bit of WD-40 on the threads. Spinner bad. When you get to the end you can crank in some pressure.
- Nov 24, 2008
- 4,343
- 7,163
- Disclosures
- Owner & designer, AudioKinesis; Auth. mfg, Big E (Home Audio only)
I already built my own 110/6 cabs so I don't need small cabs, but this is too interesting to not comment on.
Be sure to post pics when you get yours done.
No apologies needed. Mine really is the easiest to haul rig I've ever had. And for two 110's it really does kick some serious booty. I use it in a fairly loud rock band and a blues band. I love mine!
That's why I mentioned using Duke's idea and making a modular setup for bigger gigs.
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