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Low-cost DIY practice/coffeehouse tweeterless 110 [long]

#101
Fine Cut said:
not to intentionally derail this thread, but while looking around SA's website i came across this...

http://www.seismicaudiospeakers.com/Orange-Empty-Guitar-Cabinet-1x12-p/luke-1x12c_orwh.htm

i'm in Forensics class an don't feel like doing the math for the box volume, but looking around PX i found this...

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

how do you guys think this may work? the cab may be a bit small, but like it sits its a sealed-back cab and could be left as-is or ported if need-be. plus it's orange!
Click to expand...

Assuming the speaker is solidly mounted with enough clearance for cone excursion and the cabinet is airtight, I think that could work. I estimate 1.75 cubic feet net internal volume, and would suggest 48 Hz ballpark tuning. Use two 3" diameter ports, each 6" long. Place one high and one low on the back panel, as this will give you some cooling as hot air goes out the top and cool air comes in the bottom. Modest thermal power handling for a 12 is a weak point of the S2012, relative to more expensive woofers.

I still don't like the amount of upper bass bumpage the S2012 gives in this application, but it's better than in the small Parts Express 12" carsub box.
 
#102
DukeLeJeune said:
The 12" box is too small for the S2012. You get a large upper-bass peak, and weak lower bass. Not saying that won't work for some applications, but I like to minimize the discrepancy between the upper and lower bass regions. That way the lowest notes don't "die" as you go down the scale, and if you crank in a bit of EQ you don't end up with some notes "blooming" too loud.

The Kappalite 3012HO suggested by rpsands is a good candidate if you have the tools. The port in the 12" box is too long for the 3012HO; you'd need to shorten it to about 7" long. I guess a trim router would be the tool of choice.

The Kappalite 3012LF is a drop-in for the 12" box, and would give you very nice low end but has a weak top end.

If you go with either Kappalite, you will probably want to use T-nuts or Hurricane nuts. In that case I strongly suggest having a removeable input dish on the rear panel large enough to stick your hand through, just in case you get a spinner and have to grab it with pliars. I ruined an MDF subwoofer box when I got an inaccessible spinner, that's why I'm sensitive about it. GENTLY hand-tighten the screws that go into the threaded inserts (no drill set to warp speed), and stop if you get ANY binding. It is not worth it to try to power on through; back the screw out and try another one, maybe even using a bit of WD-40 on the threads. Spinner bad. When you get to the end you can crank in some pressure.
Click to expand...

That would walk all over the budget aspect though. I'd consider it but those drivers alone cost 1.5x what a 110 box would be. Dangit.
 
#104
DukeLeJeune said:
..... After the pilot holes have been drilled, I recommend using a toothpick to coat the inside of the holes with wood glue; this strengthens the particleboard where it needs it the most (for the screws' threads). Let the glue dry for a couple of hours before adding
Click to expand...
Did a thought get cut off there? Or am I just not reading it right?

Duke, thanks for taking the time to think all this up, write all this down, and give it all away! Very much appreciated.
 
#106
geoff_in_nc said:
Did a thought get cut off there? Or am I just not reading it right?
Click to expand...

Sorry that part was unclear.

I should have said MDF instead of particleboard. Anyway what I'm suggesting is, after you've drilled holes for the screws, reinforce the MDF with some wood glue (Elmer's, etc.). The idea is to strengthen the MDF there where the screw threads are going to bite in. Squirt a glob of glue onto some scrap wood or cardboard, and use a toothpick to put glue into the hole where the screw will go. Kinda smear it around the inside of the hole by "stirring" with the toothpick. You're not trying to clog up the hole, just reinforce where the threads will bite. Let it dry pretty good before you put the screws in, because you don't want the glue sticking to the threads. One day you may want to remove the speaker (for example after you discover what its thermal limits really are!), and you don't want the screws glued in place because then they may pull out some of the MDF when you back them out.
 
#107
martyman5000 said:
I went through this thread did anyone address if a crossover was needed when building a cab?
Click to expand...

There's no tweeter; that's beyond the scope of this project.

But this evening I designed an optional response-shaping filter that will smoothe out the frequency response somewhat. The S2010 has a broad peak between 1 and 2 kHz, and a narrow peak between 2 and 3 kHz.

In fact, need help getting the schematic posted. I have the schematic in the form of a 596 kB jpeg file, and I've been unable to reduce the file size. This is an issue because the site where I have image hosting has an upper limit of 450 kB.

So if I can e-mail this .jpg file to someone who can get it posted here, that would be much appreciated.
 
#109
Duke, GB get back to work on that compact 3010LF mini-fEarful wouldja ? I bought a MoJo Sonic 110 last month ... so I'm already good on the bare single 10 front.

(and of course it's all about me!)

So, I'm using the little tiny bare 110 - no idea what the driver is - as my coffee house rig. It works really darned well but ... I do miss the upper mids & hi's with my Tacoma /K&K setup. The 'air' on top is simply not there. So I carry my Acoustibass where I can dial in some brightness to compensate. For me it's a very useful cab. So I would say this currrent 110 project has real relevance for some of us. Of course you probably just devalued my MoJo Sonic sigh
 
#110
This thread could turn out like a luthiers-corner contest: build a diy cab under $150 without recycling!

With the S2010 you could do a Jack10 with no tweets, if you want to build the box.
 
#111
DukeLeJeune said:
Assuming the speaker is solidly mounted with enough clearance for cone excursion and the cabinet is airtight, I think that could work. I estimate 1.75 cubic feet net internal volume, and would suggest 48 Hz ballpark tuning. Use two 3" diameter ports, each 6" long. Place one high and one low on the back panel, as this will give you some cooling as hot air goes out the top and cool air comes in the bottom. Relatively low thermal power handling for a 12 is a weak point of the S2012, relative to more expensive woofers.

I still don't like the amount of upper bass bumpage the S2012 gives in this application, but it's better than in the small Parts Express 12" carsub box.
Click to expand...

this is encouraging. especially seeing as how these boxes wind up listed on the 'bay for blow-out prices quite often. i may have to pick one up next time one comes up for listing. two of these, assuming they sounded decent, would be a pretty neat little stack.

now, time to order the parts for this 10" :bassist:
 
#112
MX21 said:
I can host and/or reduce it if you'd like.

MX
Click to expand...

Thank you! I got the file size down to 30.4 kB, but my hosting site is still not accepting it for some reason.

Shoot me an e-mail, audiokineis at yahoo dot com, and I'll attach it in my reply.
 
#113
4Mal said:
...that compact 3010LF mini-fEarful...
Click to expand...

Far as I know, the 3010LF won't be available until 2012. And the mini-fEarful will probably be greenboy's project; if I do a two-way with the 3010LF, it'll probably be something I want to make money from just because of the amount of work that I typically put into a crossover.
 
#114
4Mal said:
Duke, GB get back to work on that compact 3010LF mini-fEarful wouldja ? I bought a MoJo Sonic 110 last month ... so I'm already good on the bare single 10 front.
Click to expand...

The very reason I built my 110/6 was because of the BP102 and the fEarful designs. I'm really digging my little 10" cabs and it's not because of speaker size preference. I've just had BP102's lying around forever and no cash to put into a bigger fEarful.

I'd love to see a mini fEarful, but I fEar there may not be all that much call for one given the 12/6. But you never know...for some size does matter (as in, as small as possible).
 
#115
I know it's been said that it's beyond this thing's scope, but would it be worth it to put a tweeter or mid driver in one of these cabs? I wouldn't mind sneaking one in a corner if a cheap xover from parts express would do the trick. Or would it be all you get what you pay for?
 
#116
S2010notch.jpg
 
#117
christw said:
I know it's been said that it's beyond this thing's scope, but would it be worth it to put a tweeter or mid driver in one of these cabs? I wouldn't mind sneaking one in a corner if a cheap xover from parts express would do the trick. Or would it be all you get what you pay for?
Click to expand...

There's not enough room in the corner for even the smallest Eminence supertweeter. There are a few small home audio dome tweeters that would fit, but hard to say which ones would be rugged enough for prosound; I think power handling in home audio tweeters is not measured using the same yardstick as prosound tweeters.
 
#119
Thanks, greenboy!

I'm still composing the post that explains it all, so that'll be up in a little bit.

Foz said:
this thread makes me want to buy **** from Duke - **** i don't need.

****it - put a paypal link up Duke - I'll send you $10 just for helping out the dumbshits I try not to be anymore.
Click to expand...

So far all I've done is gotten people to spend money/think about spending money. Until someone can say "yeah, for a hundred-something bucks, it don't suck too bad", it's all just talk.
 
#120
DukeLeJeune said:
There's not enough room in the corner for even the smallest Eminence supertweeter. There are a few small home audio dome tweeters that would fit, but hard to say which ones would be rugged enough for prosound; I think power handling in home audio tweeters is not measured using the same yardstick as prosound tweeters.
Click to expand...

I just figured I'd shoot the idea out to someone who knows rather than just blabbing and not knowing if what I'm saying is right. "I need a 305.00 hz crossover and a tweeter with a range of 1-4500000000 hz, right?" :p

But seriously, I thought it might be worth a shot. If you know of any driver that'd be worth using (you seemed to hint at a few?) feel free to send me in that direction. I'm not afraid to attenuate it a tad if needed either. Subtle highs are still okay by me. I'd rather make two small cabs that I love than two that I like.
 

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