Lower output strings?

[lark_z]

What if you got a potentiometer meant for computer chips and wired it before volume(s) to take out extra volume and give a more usable sweep to the volume pot? Those tiny chipboard pots should fit in cavity somewhere

One of my basses has a hot ceramic pickup. I finally soldered a 30k ohm resistor between the hot lead and output jack to tame it just a bit. I just guess-timated the value after eyeballing a log pot chart. A small pot like @mrperkolator suggests is more elegant. Anyway, now I don't feel the need to twiddle with the volume each time.

 

[BassFalcon]

A lower value volume pot may help too I think. It’s been many years since I’ve worked on proper electronics, but, for instance, a 1M pot bleeds less signal to ground, so you can use one of those for max output and treble content. Going in the other direction should work as well. That’s probably a 250k pot, try a 150k or 100k, it should go some distance to help with a warm vintage tone as well, and peel some volume off the top too. In theory. But pots are cheap and easier than carving up a pickguard.

 

[bigmikebass]

Ok will update- he is picking up the roto flats today. Will try that first, he wanted to try that set anyways.
So much good and information and insight. I thought the resistor idea was clever cheap and easy as well. Although @Deleted member 271037 (great album) has the most thorough and correct solution.

 

[themickster]

Ha! Yes it does- but the tone is a bit altered at the volume levels needed to correct the issue.

Those pickups must be hot.

 

[bigmikebass]

Neck ~ 9.8
Bridge~ 10.1

 

[BOOG]

Have a bass in for repair with hot pickups that cannot go lower because they sit on the top in a metal housing. Before I think about inlaying them into the top- Any strings that have lower output- less ferromagnetic material that might allow the bass to work.

Not a ton of room in the customers repair budget. Strings might be an easy fix?

Thanks in advance.

I like tapewounds and put a set on an ESP-LTD AP-5. Unfortunately, as nice and easy as they are to play, they detracted from the bass too much in volume. Specifically, they were the LaBella White/Copper. Great strings and great tone/timbre but just too darn quiet.

 

[antfarm]

How about using the volume knob?

I guess there is a (technical) reason why this obvious solution has not been considered?

 

[Eli Brockway]

How about using the volume knob?

I guess there is a (technical) reason why this obvious solution has not been considered?

That one was already answered on the first page, post number 19.

 

[Thumpin6string]

My question is why would a pickup manufacturer make a pickup that is too hot for regular strings? Instead of strings, it sounds like the pickups should be looked at.

 

[mellowgerman]

I think the labella copper white tapes would be great for this one - I haven't tried the gold white tapes personally, so can't speak to those. The copper white tapes though are definitely low output, but the nylon outer layer will also come in handy here if the pickups are high. If the strings ever come in physical contact with the top of the pickup, an outer metal winding on a string would result in a harsh clank/clack sound. If you're going with tapewounds though, the outer nylon layer would make any string-to-pickup-top contact a lot less harsh and disruptive.

 

[mdogs]

I have this same pickup on a bass, so hot it really is tough to tame. But, the tone is so great, the bass is just sitting waiting for me to figure out what to do with it. Interested to hear how the strings go, not that I would want to use Rotosound flats. The bass is wearing TIJF’s right now, not a good combo, way too much mid.

 

[logdrum]

I have copper white on my E-C and yes low output considering I am using Fat Stacks.

On my hybrid bass+guitar, the Armstrong pickups are high output as well, but I do things not usually spoken on TB maybe even taboo blasphemy - I raised the action a lot on the bass string side. But I am sure your customer won't dig that

 

[James Simonson]

Gold Labella Flats are perfect for this. They sound great too! Much lower output.

 

[J Posega]

I would suggest a full length neck pocket shim of equal thickness and a bridge with a thicker/taller baseplate.

If the volume control alters the tone too much, try installing a treble bleed circuit.

I've never given much thought to the "output level" of my strings since I don't have 2 of the same type of bass; they're all different so I've always attributed differences to pickups and electronics than strings.

 

[TyBo]

One of my basses has a hot ceramic pickup. I finally soldered a 30k ohm resistor between the hot lead and output jack to tame it just a bit. I just guess-timated the value after eyeballing a log pot chart. A small pot like @mrperkolator suggests is more elegant. Anyway, now I don't feel the need to twiddle with the volume each time.

Yes. I did the same thing, slightly lower resistor value I think, but I don't really remember that well (hey, I'm an old guy, some nonessentials drop by the wayside ). Anyway, it worked fine.

 

[bigmikebass]

Well here is the anti-climactic conclusion:

He decided to stick with the Labella DTF’s and try and work with the pad on his amp to tame the output.

Thanks everyone for all the time and suggestions. Hopefully it will help more folks along the way. I really enjoyed the ride.

 

[Deleted member 271037]

This is all great! I do not have any intonation or “wolfe” tone issues, so that is a plus. Not much in the budget for this job, so I am going to try some strings first before I go the routing option. I have a raiser if I need it for the bridge to help balance volume.

First of all, let my start by saying that the following procedure is not necessarily something I recommend. It can be a bit risky, if you're not careful. But it's also a VERY fast way of routing holes in pickguards, which can save some time (and money...).

Anyway, if you only need to route a hole in the pickguard (not the body) you can save a LOT of time by using a Dremel with a router bit, instead of the rather time consuming procedure of making a template for a proper router. I used a Dremel router bit that's designed specifically for plastic/plexi glass. I don't remember the parts number but it looks kinda like a small drill bit.

You will need a steady hand and nerves of steel though! The bit will drag sideways, often in sudden jolts. The key to success is to leave a good safety margin and remove the remaining material manually, using files. This can be done relatively fast. Certainly a LOT faster than making a template.

Don't use the Dremel at full speed though. The pickguard will melt and sparks will be flying! Slightly below half speed should be fine (although I should probably mention that I've never tested this method with on vintage celluloid pickguards, you really don't want THAT material to catch fire!!!).

I've done this on many occasions to save some time. I've not even used those router attachments you can get for Dremels. Just 100% freehand. I've ALMOST messed it up a couple of times, because of those sudden sideway jolts. But it has always turned out great. Just leave a good safety margin, go slowly and leave the final millimeter (or so...) for the files.

Of course there are other methods, like drilling out holes and using files for the rest. But the Dremel method has been BY FAR the fastest in my experience. But perhaps also the most risky...

Like I said, I don't necessarily recommend this method... but it's certainly a LOT faster then making a template! With a relatively easy shape like these gold foils you should be able to do it in 10-15 mins.