The Mini-Jazz that arrived today has this same issue.
On my other shorty, I used a Sandberg style retainer (shown earlier in this thread) with wonderful results. I plan to do the same thing here.
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Lower string break angle over nut without string tree
- Thread starter slapless
- Start date
On my other shorty, I used a Sandberg style retainer (shown earlier in this thread) with wonderful results. I plan to do the same thing here.
Since I last posted to this thread I procured some bone nut blank material and cut myself a new nut as someone earlier in the thread advised (the nut slot files I got for Christmas continue to be a great investment!) This definitely helped, although it's still crucial to get that string wind as low as possible on the A string. Next time I restring I think I am going to buy some longer scale strings to ensure I have enough material to wrap all the way to the bottom and ensure that it stays down low. I think I can get by without an additional string tree doing that, which would be my preference.
@slapless ,
Rereading the thread, I don't see where you stated the problem that the low break angle is causing. Responders guessed.
It doesn't take much of a break angle, so just curious what is going on for you.
Thanks,
John
Rereading the thread, I don't see where you stated the problem that the low break angle is causing. Responders guessed.
It doesn't take much of a break angle, so just curious what is going on for you.
Thanks,
John
@JKos a raspy, rattly sound when plucking open A. In retrospect, caused partly by break angle and partly by too wide a nut slot (even with the new correctly cut nut, it will still rattle/buzz a bit if I don't get the string far enough down on the post).
Turnaround
Commercial User
If you wrapped the strings right to the bottom of the post you wouldn't need another hold-down.
Right. This is how it came to me. New strings are on order. If that takes care of it, great! Less work for me. I've got the retainer laying around anyway, just in case.
On my Hondo P bass, the gear head posts are sort of hour-glass shaped in the middle, and there is no way the strings will wind to the bottom of the post without climbing up over the previous wraps. I just made another string tree and called it a day.
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I would have gotten different tuners where you could wind the strings down further rather than put that extra string tree on there.
I'm not sure why it's so hard for people to trust what you're saying with this. I've never had a 4 string instrument (Fender style) where I couldn't solve the issue with more windings on the A string. Another string tree has never even crossed my mind. Putting another string tree on there is like tapping in a finishing nail with a sledge hammer.
Turnaround
Commercial User
I think it’s just in some people’s nature to “improve” things. Some of these “improvements” don’t actually better anything other than the person’s sense of accomplishment.
It's a beater utility bass made for playing. Gearheads are fine otherwise, so why replace them?
I had the brass, it took about an hour to make and install; replacing with new gearheads didn't make economic sense.
I think you're right. I only fix things that are broken, and a Fender style A string buzz at the nut isn't something that's broken if the string is wound correctly.
Sure, but cheap tuners could have been had without drilling any new holes in the neck. Different strokes for different folks.
I recommend tuners with posts that have straight sides rather than concave, it makes it much easier to wrap the strings low on the posts.
Likely I would have had to drill eight new holes for the new tuning heads, and possibly ream the holes for the posts. Damned if you do, damned if you don't.
I wouldn't think you'd have to do that. Someone makes tuners with the same screw mounting pattern, but without that absurd rim on the post that stops you from winding the strings lower.
