Meazzi Hollywood (referenced) project

[Beej]

Wow, Jio, wow!

 

[JIO]

Wow, Jio, wow!

Thanks! It was an interesting project in a few ways for me. I generally don't gravitate to exotic wood for my builds - I mean, that wavy maple is pretty cool and I like looking at examples I often see here on tb but it's just not my thing. The mahogany back is very nice and I do like the mix of the two woods. Same with gold hw - I did a gold/silver hw mix on two basses (one that sold, the other one of mine) which was cool, but usually I'm not drawn to gold as a rule.

Th bass came in at 7lbs/15oz so pretty much 8lbs. It's 46" long - the same as a Fender P-bass, which is always helpful when buying a standard/generic HSC. It stands straight up with a Dunlop Strap-Lok strap engaged for leaning against an amp on stage w/o worry of it falling over and it balances perfectly when playing w/o the slightest hint of neck-dive. It basically sounds like a P-bass as the pu location is exactly where it sits on my '66 P. I may go ahead and cut a brass nut for it - the white plastic one on the generic neck looks cheap and a brass nut will definitely be a tone improvement. (and will add more gold )

I designed the lower horn shape to cradle your leg when playing seated and it does so better than any bass I've ever sat with. To a lot of players this is not seen as a focus/priority, but for me, when I'm learning new material or woodshedding at home - I'm doing it seated and I appreciate how comfortable and balanced it is.

Lately I've favored more retro styling on my builds and the newest one will continue that involvement. But when I designed the (more modern) SuperB body, my goals were creating a well balanced, ergonomic and visually attractive bass. I was inspired by Phil Kubicki's Factor - which I consider is still one of the best designs for a headless bass or otherwise. Like a Fender P and J, it does not look 'dated'. When design is that good - it doesn't require 'updating'. So even as I continue to design/build retro-inspired basses, I expressly do 'update' them for ergonomic/balance/weight issues which so many of these iconic vintage basses suffer from. I strive to capture the essence/vibe of retro/vintage design with modern requirements of a professional/playable bass.

I had a few (bought used) Ex-Factors when they were affordable in the mid '90s. Back then the trend was "vintage Fender" and the modern '80s designs were collecting dust in guitar shops. One I owned was an early '90s FCS/Kubicki just like this Sonic Blue example. I haven't played one in a while now, so I can't recall if the lack of a lower horn was a drawback playing seated. And because it was headless (other than the extended section for his unique drop-D capo) the upper horn didn't need to be any longer for proper balance. I spoke with Phil a few times on the phone - he was always very friendly and generous with his time. I bought the fretless Ex-Factor neck that's on my Factorbrd from him in '94 for my (then) '86 (pre-FCS) black Ex-Factor. I later refinished it in trans-orange and sold it with its original fretted neck.

I still have my Koa G&L L-2000 powered Ex-Factorbird fretless, my first real foray into bass design/building from the late '90s - a T-bird that doesn't neck-dive. (currently strung BEAD)

 

[JIO]

...more pics -

I reshaped the generic neck-heal to flow into the neck platform. The grain is visually deceiving as to the arch - it's a soft smoothed transition. Once altered I shot the neck with satin nitro for a nice feel.

Back side (mahogany) with inset Dunlop Strap-Lok flat-top ports and inset side-mount barrel jack. Keep'n it stealthy.

 

[JIO]

Cut a brass nut and what a world of difference in the basses voice! The POC white plastic (soft plastic at that!) was a major tone-sucker. Once the brass nut was installed the sound opened up like a sunrise. Took a decent sounding bass to a presence and richness deserving of its looks. Brass nuts don't work on all basses, but it worked wonders on this bass - clear ringing harmonics and defined tone in every register. Love it when something simple is so transformative.

A great tip for setting the correct string depth in the nut is depressing the 3rd fret and slipping a post-it note between the 1st fret/string. There should be a slight tug as it slides between them. When Covid 1st hit, I went through all my basses and adjusted them to this system. I like med-action but low at the nut is much appreciated as we spend a lot of time here.

Mo better - it's a relatively inexpensive generic neck, but has an ebony fb which also adds to the tone. Ebony fb's are a fave of mine as you are probably aware from many of my builds.

Another detail - to make sure the Strap-Lok doesn't protrude below the arched section, I removed the surround 'cup' usually added to the system. Still works exactly the same - just has a lower profile. The added cup's function is to protect from accidentally pushing the center spring-loaded release button - but it's not that sensitive unless one is manhandling the bass.

The side-mount barrel jack worked very efficiently for where it enters the control cavity, but also offers a clean path around the edge of the lower bout when looped through the strap connection.

 

[JIO]

I'm tentatively posting pics of a recent bass purchase. I'll explain more later this week once some details are cleared up. Pretty darn cool.

 

[God's Favorite Bass]

I'm tentatively posting pics of a recent bass purchase. I'll explain more later this week once some details are cleared up. Pretty darn cool.

View attachment 4371671 View attachment 4371674

What's THAT?!? Ooo-dee-la-lee!

 

[Reedt2000]

I'm tentatively posting pics of a recent bass purchase. I'll explain more later this week once some details are cleared up. Pretty darn cool.

View attachment 4371671 View attachment 4371674

Is that a Kay headstock?

 

[JIO]

What's THAT?!? Ooo-dee-la-lee!

Is that a Kay headstock?

No. it is a '70s Czech bass called a Jolana. I've followed such basses over time but have appreciated them from afar up till now. What pushed me over the line was the beautiful artwork over it by Chelyabinsk artist Elena Konovalova - it exposed a soft spot for me being an artist. (I'm also of Czech/Polish descent) I’m taking a chance dealing with a Russian Federation town, but I’m willing to see if it can be done. (safeguarded by eBay/Paypal) There is currently a hold on the transaction, but I'm in contact with the seller and eBay both so I’m keeping fingers crossed that it will be resolved in a few days. I will update as further news comes in.

 

[JIO]

Received the gold-plated P-bass pu cover (a Fender product) and it looks marvelous. (and I'm not a gold person...) I guess if one is committed to going gold - go gold! Gold strings could top it off (trust me, I've used them on a bass w/gold hw) - they are made in Germany and not cheap being 24c gold plated... but yah know.., frets are silver, pu poles are silver... (as in, where does it end?) Frankly, strings that are coated with gold or anodized in rainbow or neon colours DO NOT the translate into good sounding strings. Trust me - I've tested these waters.

I tried something new on this bass and it seems t have made a slight difference/improvement. It's a treble bleed mod. It lets your (guitar/bass) retain the highs from your tone as the volume is decreased. Without this circuit, higher frequencies dissipate as the volume is reduced. The treble bleed mod turns muddy low volumes into clearer, brighter lows. I can attest that there is a difference and it is an improvement. My pet peeve with rolling off the treble is that it most usually leaves you with a muted bass tone which I don't find acceptable. Only a couple of my basses sound good in that setting. This 'mod' helps address that on a bass that suffers from that muted/muffled full bass tone.

 

[God's Favorite Bass]

Received the gold-plated P-bass pu cover (a Fender product) and it looks marvelous. (and I'm not a gold person...) I guess if one is committed to going gold - go gold! Gold strings could top it off (trust me, I've used them on a bass w/gold hw) - they are made in Germany and not cheap being 24c gold plated... but yah know.., frets are silver, pu poles are silver... (as in, where does it end?) Frankly, strings that are coated with gold or anodized in rainbow or neon colours DO NOT the translate into good sounding strings. Trust me - I've tested these waters.

View attachment 4372148 View attachment 4372149 View attachment 4372150
I tried something new on this bass and it seems t have made a slight difference/improvement. It's a treble bleed mod. It lets your (guitar/bass) retain the highs from your tone as the volume is decreased. Without this circuit, higher frequencies dissipate as the volume is reduced. The treble bleed mod turns muddy low volumes into clearer, brighter lows. I can attest that there is a difference and it is an improvement. My pet peeve with rolling off the treble is that it most usually leaves you with a muted bass tone which I don't find acceptable. Only a couple of my basses sound good in that setting. This 'mod' helps address that on a bass that suffers from that muted/muffled full bass tone.
View attachment 4372158

So it's like the Fender "grease bucket" tone wiring? My Am Special has that and the description is accurate. I like it.

 

[JIO]

So it's like the Fender "grease bucket" tone wiring? My Am Special has that and the description is accurate. I like it.

Ok, always wondered what that was - thanks for the clarification. Yes, it does make a difference. I got 4 of them so will experiment with other of my basses. Like I said, not every bass suffers from the muted/muffled treble roll off so I'll target ones that do. (unlike my '66 P which sounds great in all settings) Key is to install it on each V pot if there are two.

 

[Kenan]

Ok, always wondered what that was - thanks for the clarification. Yes, it does make a difference. I got 4 of them so will experiment with other of my basses. Like I said, not every bass suffers from the muted/muffled treble roll off so I'll target ones that do. (unlike my '66 P - sounds great in all settings) Key is to install it on each V pot if there are two.

This comes standard on the Lakland 34" Hollowbody... or at least on mine anyway. When I first looked inside, I had no idea why there were caps on the volume pots. I put the question to TB and was schooled on the whole concept. I guess it's a pretty neat idea, but I can't say that it makes any difference for me. I go for a pretty vintage, thumpy tone without a lot of bright high end, so I don't miss having it on any of my other basses. If it makes a difference for you or anyone else, then that's great and it's a pretty inexpensive mod.

 

[JIO]

​

This comes standard on the Lakland 34" Hollowbody... or at least on mine anyway. When I first looked inside, I had no idea why there were caps on the volume pots. I put the question to TB and was schooled on the whole concept. I guess it's a pretty neat idea, but I can't say that it makes any difference for me. I go for a pretty vintage, thumpy tone without a lot of bright high end, so I don't miss having it on any of my other basses. If it makes a difference for you or anyone else, then that's great and it's a pretty inexpensive mod.

The concept of 'vintage thump tone' is subjective to the bass and more directly to the players ears. I absolutely relate and understand of what you speak, but not all basses deliver that iconic sound. As I said, I have basses that are 100% across the board perfect in every tonal range to my ears and I would never tamper with that. However, others are not so perfect and this simple inexpensive addition aids there. I wouldn't describe it as 'a lot of bright high end' at all. It's more like a filter that clarifies a non-treble tone. I agree it is subtle, but it does have a positive effect to my experienced ears. (I'm not boasting by saying 'experienced' - I'm saying that over many years I can hear a subtle difference when and if it is present) It might not have made a difference to you because you only heard it with the addition of the treble-bleed on your Lakland. I heard the bass I installed it on before and after - and there was a marked improvement.

 

[Kenan]

​

It might not have made a difference to you because you only heard it with the addition of the treble-bleed on your Lakland. I heard the bass I installed it on before and after - and there was a marked improvement.

That's a solid point.

 

[JIO]

Finally ordered a very nice 1 piece slab of Honduran mahogany. While I was waiting I was sent an offer from the seller for a major reduction of cost. (bonus!) I was holding off until I contacted a furniture maker I know to ask if the co-op he works at has the capacity to split the slab into two pieces. I want this because I'm going to extensively chamber it. He planes my slabs from the standard 1-3/4" or 2" down to 1-1/4". I'm still deciding whether I will go 1.5" or 1-1/4". I may go with 1.5" for a change.

Wet (naphtha?) to show 'finished' grain -

Dry (other side) -

 

[JIO]

Yet another thread tangent - the young aspiring bass player who I did the wavy maple-top P for gave me generic parts he was originally wanting to use for a bass project. He got them on eBay and probably didn't pay much for them. Today, I had some time and did all the initial work to make it a playable bass. (I hate wasting perfectly good parts) It is a Fiesta red (no name) basswood P body, soft black plastic pg, generic P-bass pu's/500k pots/cap, jack, black neck-plate w/3 black attachment screws, decent generic bridge and a 1-5/8" P-esk maple/maple 20 fret neck with none-worn/like new frets and working tr. Interestingly enough, it had Dunlop Strap-Lok pegs. He bought it as a "loaded" body.

I installed 250k Bourn pots (as on a standard P-bass) and a NOS Z5U 20% 100v cap. I also used the treble-bleed mod on it. I painted the control cavity w/carbon shielding paint and star-grounded the pu-area to the control cavity area to the bridge and jack for silent operation. It's easy to eliminate any electronics issues doing this. Installed some knurled chrome-dome knobs from my knob-box/collection. Never can have too many knobs...

The neck; it had large old-style Fender tuner-post holes and the tuners I had in stock were the more medium barrel sized. ('80s Ibanez "heart" shaped tuners - some of my faves) Sooo, I filled the holes with a maple dowel I have for this purpose and re-drilled for the press-fit cups/sleeves. In the process, I learned these cups/sleeves are of a non-standard size which I locally was unable to get a drill-bit for. It was very close to a forester-bit I had, so I used the same 'fix' as I did with the gold Hipshot tuners. (aluminum tape wrap on the sleeve) Didn't even need as much - and sorted. While I was at it - I reshaped the hs outline to create a sort of '51 P/Tele bass hs shape leaving the "hook" it came with. Different, and not half bad looking. The neck/fb has a thick amber ("vintage) gloss on it which I will eventually remove - I'll leave the fb as is as it looks ok. Not a fan as a player of a glossy neck. Anyway, it turned out to be a very playable decent sounding P-bass. Kinda of a throwaway bass, one I could take to any dicy dive w/o worry but a a bass that plays, feels and sounds like a legit bass. Oh, and 7lbs/7oz... score.

in progress -

 

[JIO]

I flat-bladed the amber gloss off the neck & hs and started with a coat of satin wipe-on poly after sanding. Left the fb 'as is' as it's in good condition and it looks ok with the Fiesta red. I'll take pics after its reassembled.

The fb maple has some small birds-eye going on. Nothing exotic, but nice anyway.

 

[JIO]

Oh, and the '70s Jolanas Czech bass is on its way from Chelyabinsk, Russian Federation. There was a log-jam with PayPal on their end but it's been cleared up. It will most likely take a few weeks to arrive but I will post a NBD in the basses forum once it arrives and it gets checked out. Looking forward to receiving it.

 

[Matt Liebenau]

Oh, and the '70s Jolanas Czech bass is on its way from Chelyabinsk, Russian Federation. There was a log-jam with PayPal on their end but it's been cleared up. It will most likely take a few weeks to arrive but I will post a NBD in the basses forum once it arrives and it gets checked out. Looking forward to receiving it.

View attachment 4375442 View attachment 4375443

I’m looking forward to you getting that. I’ve thought about ordering one of those old Soviet or East German basses but I’ve been concerned about what, if anything, I’ll get and if there will be any taxes or whatever added on at customs.

 

[JIO]

I’m looking forward to you getting that. I’ve thought about ordering one of those old Soviet or East German basses but I’ve been concerned about what, if anything, I’ll get and if there will be any taxes or whatever added on at customs.

Yes, my concerns as well Matt. But safe-guarded by the firewalls of PayPal and eBay, I decided to take a chance. I consulted with @Dynacord here on tb (in Poland) and he said due to the low cost it wouldn't get any added international handling fees attached. I was also hesitant because this seller had 0 feedback (1st time seller on eBay). But again, everyone including myself had a 1st sale on eBay so as long as it arrives in good condition with no surprises - I will be glad to give him his 1st (positive) feedback.